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new cams or 95inch bore, which to do first

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Old Aug 31, 2013 | 07:01 PM
  #11  
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I just did se 203's and 95" bb, along with upgraded tensioners. Tuned and with my shitty exhaust im at 86 hp and 96 ft lbs of torque. Total invested was around 3100 not including tune. Had work done at good indy. To do it over again i would do the tensioner upgrade and put the rest of my money back in my wallet. Dont get me wrong, it runs good but i was expecting more with the cams and 95". Jmo- good luck with whichever way you go!
 
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Old Aug 31, 2013 | 08:39 PM
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mine came with the s and s upgrade. I come from the world of shovel....holy Francis was I surprised. Go this way you will have nothing but smiles on your face.

ltr Pat
 
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Old Sep 1, 2013 | 12:34 AM
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I am running Andrews 37G cams. Ran them on my 04 for a year before upgrading to a 95" w/ new heads. I would recommend starting with cams.
 
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Old Sep 1, 2013 | 01:00 AM
  #14  
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I did HQ0034's in my '03. It rips after getting my carb. set up right. When doing the cams do an upgrade whether it's a SE hydraulic cam plate, gear drive cams, or an '07+ cam plate & oil pump with conversion cams. If you shop around you can do a hydraulic conversion pretty cheap.
 
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Old Sep 1, 2013 | 01:17 AM
  #15  
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What tensioner are you guys talking about? I did a 95 plus Andrews tw37 cams and did not change the tensioner. Can some please tell me which one I need?


Thanks in advance.
 
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Old Sep 1, 2013 | 02:10 AM
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Originally Posted by EastBay_Solo
What tensioner are you guys talking about? I did a 95 plus Andrews tw37 cams and did not change the tensioner. Can some please tell me which one I need?


Thanks in advance.
You don't need to upgrade to the hydraulic type. Your '06 already as them.
 
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Old Sep 1, 2013 | 03:30 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by DanDman
You don't need to upgrade to the hydraulic type. Your '06 already as them.
Sweet thanks.
 
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Old Sep 1, 2013 | 08:44 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by thedonthere
No matter which way you go, you have to make sure the components you choose work with each other.Different cams need specific compression to work right. If you get cams that work with your stock bore they may not function too well when you do a big bore. Choose wisely.
Agree, this is the problem with doing it one step at a time. Finding a cam that will work as a bolt in for now and really perform well with a big bore and head work down the road is very difficult, maybe impossible. Your stock heads and 88" that's really lackig displacement and compression leave you limited to low lift, early intake close, short duration, lame bolt in cams. Sure, there's a bunch of cams that will do both okay, ss510, se203, 204, tw37, tw6, etc, and it might satisfy you, but imo it's a huge waste of time and money to do it that way because it will not be anywhere near its potential down the road using a mild bolt in cam with a big bore and good head work. With any of these bolt in cams, even after the big bore and everything you'll be lucky to make over 100ft lbs and really lucky to make 1hp per cube, sad. A well set up 95-98" can make a solid 110/110+. So by doing it in steps you'll spend more money in the long run to give up as much as 20hp, makes sense.
 
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Old Sep 1, 2013 | 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by daBreeze
I just did se 203's and 95" bb, along with upgraded tensioners. Tuned and with my shitty exhaust im at 86 hp and 96 ft lbs of torque. Total invested was around 3100 not including tune. Had work done at good indy. To do it over again i would do the tensioner upgrade and put the rest of my money back in my wallet. Dont get me wrong, it runs good but i was expecting more with the cams and 95". Jmo- good luck with whichever way you go!
Ignore the numbers, what does it ride like?

I put a 95 kit, 203's, Fuel Pak and ported the heads on a 2005 Road King recently....no idea of the HP but the owner is stoked with how much better it pulls.

A lot of tuned bikes are still pulling under 90HP, people seem to expect huge increases but if you consider a starting point of 69HP then at 86HP you have a 25% increase in HP.....that is easy to achieve, to get to a 50% increase (103HP) will cost you a lot of dollars and the dollar per HP cost climbs exponentially as the final HP figure increases.

82 - 89 HP is a good figure for a bike that is still rideable and hasn't broken the bank....the Dyno is the worst invention ever, it causes nothing but disappointment to so many people. Whereas the "seat of the pants dyno" brings joy to millions
 
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Old Sep 1, 2013 | 06:10 PM
  #20  
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...but serious cam work needs to be fine-tuned with a dyno right? I'm only asking this because there's no dyno in my country that I know of...not for bikes at least (or any other vehicle for that matter)

What other way can you make you sure you've done everything right? (besides the subjectiveness of the personal experience of course)
 
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