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Need some help with codes the bike is throwing

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Old Sep 5, 2013 | 02:03 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by nevil
I may be wrong (again) but I think that the throttle plate has to have some gap when closed, it can't be shut all the way. That is how needed to set up my TMax, but it was a few years ago and I don't remember the spec on it, but it was very small. Maybe it's only for that tuner, but it's possible the adjustment changed on your blade.
You are correct that there is a small metered (factory set) stop for the throttle body butterfly. However it does bottom on the bore. The Idle Air Control (IAC) valve finishes off the controlled amount of air to control the idle. Any adjust of the actually stop will be overridden by the ECM, and it will position the throttle shaft so that it actually gives incorrect position to the TP. The newer throttle bodies hide this setting to keep tamper at a minimum. The actually stop screw is in the face of this throttle body. You can see it at 5 o'clock and is loctited and tamper pin torz
 

Last edited by Jackie Paper; Sep 14, 2018 at 11:05 AM.
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Old Sep 5, 2013 | 02:11 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by JRK5892
i am really hoping cleaning up the plug will help... we shall see... first time i have had to replace a TPS sensor, i know on some cars you have to reset the unit, but i did not see that in the manual at all
You may just need to reinitialize the ECM to the new TPS sensor. With the run / stop sw in run, cycle on / off to on 30 sec, off 30 sec, on 30 sec, off 30 sec, on 30 sec, then back off. Should reinitialize the ECM.
 
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Old Sep 5, 2013 | 02:26 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by Robottom
You may just need to reinitialize the ECM to the new TPS sensor. With the run / stop sw in run, cycle on / off to on 30 sec, off 30 sec, on 30 sec, off 30 sec, on 30 sec, then back off. Should reinitialize the ECM.
Good advice. Start there. The TPS is just a glorified potentiometer (think dimmer switch for your house). It gets 5V in from the ECM and spits 0-5V (ideally, but more like 0.5V-4.65V) out to the ECM to tell it what position it is at. Would make sense a new TPS might have a different range than the old one.
 

Last edited by mattVA; Sep 5, 2013 at 02:29 PM.
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Old Sep 5, 2013 | 03:02 PM
  #14  
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thank you guys so much! i will post up my results when i get home tonight and turn some wrenches. thank you for all the feedback! i was a bit lost where to go from here!
 
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Old Sep 5, 2013 | 06:35 PM
  #15  
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Since you've already run it, disconnect the battery and then do the 30 seconds on 30 seconds off thing.
 
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Old Sep 6, 2013 | 09:05 AM
  #16  
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thank you all so much for your help... we are fixed... but took some hunting... pulled the plugs and replaced them, removed the wires and cleaned all the contact points very well. pulled the throttle body out, cleaned that really well including the injectors, every plug, and lubed cables, checked butter flu on warm/start up... still did not fix the issue after it was back together... so i then started to chase lines... pulled the battery and box out, and found a very small tear in the wire harness, cut that open to discover the reason for my codes!!! re soldered the wires up, wrapped it, and put it all back together.... again... and she is right as rain! thank you again for all the help and getting my gears turning to figure this sucker out!

 
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Old Sep 6, 2013 | 09:10 AM
  #17  
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Good find, glad you got it fixed for very little money
 
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Old Sep 6, 2013 | 11:22 AM
  #18  
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Happy ending. It's gotta be a relief to find something that positively caused the problem. Not always the case.
 
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Old Sep 6, 2013 | 11:25 AM
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Glad you found it! And a simple fix after.
 
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