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Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
There is no need for a 60 mile dyno on your bike.. most Dynos for an HD run for about 5 to 7 miles (or much much less) at the most before the tech has it dialed in...
My advice.. break your bike in for the 1K.. it sounds like from your racing experience that you know which end of a wrench is which.. with the exception of mounting tires on the rims.. NO ONE touches my bike.. do your own servicing (plenty of threads on here about that) get to know your bike.. read on here till your eyes hurt.. these guys are some of the most intelligent and knowledgable cats I have ever met.. you will get all sorts of ideas and knowledege that will help you make an informed decision which will in turn allow you to take your bike in whichever direction you want to go be it tuner wise, exhaust / intake system wise or other wise.. from mild to wild.. it can be and has been done here...
congrats on the new bike.. welcome to the forum and ride the wheels off of it.. every chance you get
Last edited by Frank Castle; Mar 23, 2014 at 01:48 PM.
Reason: spelling error
Thanks man and I do know wrenching very well, when I was quoted 500 in labor for exhaust, air intake and tuning I told them I will bring it in on a trailer ready for the tune. Is there a need to drop a heat range or two in plugs before I take it in? Or is this such a mild tune that the stock plugs will work? I too will be doing most all the wrenching on my bike, I was looking at a nice Bike Lift/Jack for just under 200 at Harbor freight.
Harbor freight is a great source for "at home mechanics"... I am also looking at HF table lifts.. a great investment if you ask me.. No need to change plugs.. the tune that you are having done wont come anywhere near needing that.. bah.. 500 for labor..
I dont know which "direction" you are heading.. I say that because when I, (like many on here bought their scoots either new or used) we had a "vision" if you will (the old blank canvass axiom) of where we wanted the bike to "be or to go".. for me.. hardly any stock parts will work or are left / wiil be left on my bike appearance wise.. motor wise.. same thing.. its a 107 or bigger for me.. just trying to justify in my head the 5K necessary to go to a 117 or 124..
If you want to keep your bike stock-ish and just ride in the higher range of what your 103 is capable of putting out.. get a good fuel management system.. (Power vision V2 for me.. little pricey but SO worth it now) or if thats a little higher than you want to be.. get a set Xieds.. (plenty of info. on here about those) get the exhaust system, (for me:Python staggered duals) and an air intake system (for me:K&N 63-1125P) both because I'm a chrome guy... and save that dyno money for something else.. like your lift for instance.. dynoing IMO is only necessary when you either :
A) complete a major engine upgrade (I.E. 96 or 103 CI to say a 106 or 107.. or even bigger)
B) have the bike where its gonna "be" or remain at... (I.E. tuner, pipes intake and no more... a rare instance indeed esp. on here)
unless you have a buddy who has access to one.. Dyno time equals $$$ time ...
Also as a side note... do some reading on CAN/BUS which is the ECM and electrical system your new HD uses.. just for general knowledge purposes..
My vision for the bike is more aesthetics than performance. I sold my drag car because I want to get away from breaking stuff all the time. So a good sound is the only reason I'm changing the pipes. So for me a dyno tune to ensure the time is as efficient as it can get is worth it to me because all I will do from there is for the looks, wheels, tins, ect..
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