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Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
Sat on my garage floor for 30 minutes backing those bolts out 1/4 turn at a time for you!
Are you going to pick one up or were you looking for something else? Keep in mind I have the Evo version so it isn't finalized, still being designed I assume the twin cam version is a little different.
and I certainly appreciate it!... definitely picking one up, but it'll be tweaked a bit, nothing to change the basic design tho. I see it could use a drain hole at the lowest point in that isolator cavity cover or not, no biggy for me to add one tho... I'm in the process of linking the powertrain a bit differently than stock using velva-touch links... one up high in back above the rear mount and one high up front similar to what the the new streetglide has... and one down low up front as it comes with that new mount... so three altogether... one isn't needed close to the rear mount IMHO... just as an experiment really, and that I want to run radials to full advantage also. there's a isolator inside those links if you didn't know.
The twin cam mount is sealed at the top you won't need a drain. Like I said my Evo is still in design I know they are putting a drain in the next test version. I'd be interested to see your results with your setup.
...and by knowing the design I could tell how much fore/aft movement it's helping to prevent, few other things. .
Umm...the mount doesnt prevent fore/aft movement....it allows it. it is the lateral movement that is stopped, which does the same thing as a true-track...keeping the front of the drive train stable so you dont get the rear wheel flex/wobble in turns. If you limit fore/aft movement..then you might as well just hard mount the motor.
Umm...the mount doesnt prevent fore/aft movement....it allows it. it is the lateral movement that is stopped, which does the same thing as a true-track...keeping the front of the drive train stable so you dont get the rear wheel flex/wobble in turns. If you limit fore/aft movement..then you might as well just hard mount the motor.
Until you've actually taken a brand new set of stock Dyna mounts and built a test fixture like I did to find their limits, don't be stooped!!!
Can we see this rig? I'd like to see what you're doing and what you come up with.
it took me a very long time (two years maybe) to solve the up-high rear link problem and to also have it be a (non-rube goldberg), 100% bolt-on affair... finally an ingenious solution appeared, if I do say so myself, and so I'm more than a bit concerned that it would be stolen and marketed in a heartbeat if I were to show it off now! I also want to have it up and rolling first, and to hopefully find that the powertrain can cope with being 95%? (high number anyway) stressed in torsion before I show it off. honestly not so worried about that tho because the late frame really is quite stiff... and why a link down low up front makes such a noticable difference.
just a FYI to anyone who cares, you need at least three (properly placed) links and one very stiff attachment point to stress the powertrain, and to take all, ok, (most) of the rubber out of the equation, enough to greatly improve the handing on a Dyna chassis anyway! ("greatly" being subjective) yours maybe being a lot different than mine, vise versa.
What do you mean by up high rear link? Do the newer dynas have another link with the mounts? Mines a 98 but I thought they all used the same basic mounts with slight differences
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