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I've got a 2000 dyna that runs fine when it has a fresh battery with a good charge on it, if it sits for 12 hours or so, it completely drains the battery and that's with everything turned off. I know if I charge the battery and hook a test light between the negative battery post and the negative wire that hooks to the battery,,that if I have a short the light will be on. So I was told to unplug each circuit until I find the one that makes the light go out then I will know where my short is at. My question is, where do I unhook each circuit at? Is there a spot on the fuse block were the circuits can be unhooked? (Like rear lights, turn signals, horn, ignition ect.)
The light trick may work but it is not the best way to look for power drains...too imprecise ...it works better to use the amp meter function on a multimeter. Set it up for 10 amps, put it in series between the disconnected battery negative cable and the battery negative terminal. Put the positive lead on the cable and the negative lead on the battery terminal. This will give you some indication of how much of a drain you have and help narrow down likely circuits. Like Robbie said, start pulling fuses and see if you can get the meter to read zero and then work from there.
I've got a 2000 dyna that runs fine when it has a fresh battery with a good charge on it, if it sits for 12 hours or so, it completely drains the battery and that's with everything turned off. I know if I charge the battery and hook a test light between the negative battery post and the negative wire that hooks to the battery,,that if I have a short the light will be on. So I was told to unplug each circuit until I find the one that makes the light go out then I will know where my short is at. My question is, where do I unhook each circuit at? Is there a spot on the fuse block were the circuits can be unhooked? (Like rear lights, turn signals, horn, ignition ect.)
im having the same problem with my 2007 night train, battery wouldn't hold a charge, I can unhook the negative from the battery and touch it to the post and get a spark, I started pulling fuses and tried it after each one was removed, it was the "Battery" fuse that stopped the sparking, my battery was shot, I replaced it with a new one and the problem is still there, not sure where to look from here.
Eye ball your wiring too, everywhere. I had some wires on the underside my rear fender that came out of their "clamp" and the tire wore the insulation off them. Just to throw something out with the great advice/help already posted.
( checking these fender wires is something I do with the rest of my bike regular maintenance )
The light trick may work but it is not the best way to look for power drains...too imprecise ...it works better to use the amp meter function on a multimeter. Set it up for 10 amps, put it in series between the disconnected battery negative cable and the battery negative terminal. Put the positive lead on the cable and the negative lead on the battery terminal. This will give you some indication of how much of a drain you have and help narrow down likely circuits. Like Robbie said, start pulling fuses and see if you can get the meter to read zero and then work from there.
Good luck and let us know how it goes...
In order to check Amps, don't you need to use a clamp type meter and not the test leads in series?
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