Question about forward controls
I have an 06 Streetbob, the dealer quotes me at around $650.00 forwardfoot controlsinstalled. Anyone put forwards on thier Dyna? If so I'd like to know who you went with.
There are tons of people here with forward controls on their SB. Do a search first and you will see. I bought mine on Ebay for $269 and had them powder coated. Custom Chrome makes them nothing special. The reason why they quoated you so much is becasue they are going to take the mid shaft out which requires removal of the inner and outer primary. I did like many others and just pushed the bolt through and stuck the shaft connector behind one of the bolts.
like this

Whiffleboy has lots of pictures at this post https://www.hdforums.com/m_613252/tm.htm
takes 30-45 minutes depending on skill level. You don't have to remove exhaust. pretty simple job.
like this

Whiffleboy has lots of pictures at this post https://www.hdforums.com/m_613252/tm.htm
takes 30-45 minutes depending on skill level. You don't have to remove exhaust. pretty simple job.
[quote] ORIGINAL: Me, from an earlier post.
[AND THIS SHOULD BY NO MEANS REPLACE THE INSTRUCTIONS IN THE MANUAL. I MAY HAVE MISSED A STEP HERE OR THERE]
You will need:
1. A 30mm socket. Some say this is a 1 1/8" socket. I used a 30mm, they're nearly (by less than 1/16th ") the same size.
2. Torque wrenches- one that goes to around 150 ft/lbs and another that can do ft/inches. The big one needs to work in reverse too.
3. Primary Chaincase Fluid
4. The usual sockets you need for workin' on a harley
5. Springclip pliers
6. Primary Drive Lock Tool (*)
SHOP MANUAL
7. Invite a buddy. It's more fun to work with friends anyway.
The instructions that come with the kit simply tell you to remove the inner/outer primary covers, but not how to do it.
1. Remove the battery, battery box and undo the starter bolts. It says to remove the starter completly but I was able to work my way around it, so I left it in its place. Ymmv, use your judgement. I did have to undo the electrical box on the left side of the bike as well, but that's because I've got the PCIII stuffed in there as well as a few other things and I wanted a little extra room to play.
2. Remove the starter. (See point one)
3. Remove the mid-mount shifter and the peg mount.
3.5 (EDITED) DRAIN THE PRIMARY!!!
4. Remove the inspection cover from the outer primary cover.
5. Next, remove the outer primary cover
6. Remove the chain tensioner (careful, it's spring loaded and will fly out if you're not careful).
7. Lock the primary drive sprocket to the clutch sproket with the lock tool (why you need #6- it holds everything in place, otherwise you'd move the bike or spin the wheel while doing everything up), and loosen the primary drive bolt.
8. Reverse the tool and remove the clutch adjustment bolt, the clutch release plate retaining spring (why you need #5) and the clutch release plate.
9. Once the clutch release plate is out, use your 30mm or 1 1/8" socket and remove the clutch nut. Note, this is reverse-threaded. Note, this is reverse-threaded. Note, this is reverse-threaded. Note, this is reverse-threaded.
10. The whole compensating sproket - clutch - chain has to come out at once. Do this carefully, it's awkward. Good time for that friend to stop drinking your beer and come actually help.
11. Remove the 5 bolts holding the inner primary casing to the crankcase/tranny. The inner case should come off very easily.
NOW: This is where I totally deviated from the instructions- I ended up replacing my inner/outer primary with one from a wideglide. All chrome, no shift hole. It looks beaut.
12. Remove the mid-control shifter arms and linkage. Throw it at your buddy. Some help he's been anyway. Did he even bring beer?
13. Install the new shift arm to the transmission
14. Install the new peg mounts in the forward position.
15. Attach the shift linkage to both ends - one on the tranny side one on the peg side.
16. Re-install the inner primary (I can't remember if there's something to plug the hole, look at your instructions. I didn't need to because I installed a wideglide inner primary too). Remember to use the new gasket.
17. Reinstall the compensating socket and the clutch. Get your buddy's drunk *** off the garage floor and get him to help you here. You can do it alone, but it's easier with two. Torque it to what it says in the manual. Remember that the clutch retaining nut is reverse threaded. reverse threaded. reverse threaded.
18. Reinstall the starter.
19. Install the clutch release plate and it's retaining ring. BE CAREFUL- it's easy to strip the threads on this piece, follow the instructions in the manual EXACTLY.
20. Re-install the chain tensioner. The trick here is to "compress" it so it's as small as possible and tie a ziptie around it so it stays together while you install it into the inner primary casing. Torque as indicated in the manual
21. Re-instal
[AND THIS SHOULD BY NO MEANS REPLACE THE INSTRUCTIONS IN THE MANUAL. I MAY HAVE MISSED A STEP HERE OR THERE]
You will need:
1. A 30mm socket. Some say this is a 1 1/8" socket. I used a 30mm, they're nearly (by less than 1/16th ") the same size.
2. Torque wrenches- one that goes to around 150 ft/lbs and another that can do ft/inches. The big one needs to work in reverse too.
3. Primary Chaincase Fluid
4. The usual sockets you need for workin' on a harley
5. Springclip pliers
6. Primary Drive Lock Tool (*)
SHOP MANUAL
7. Invite a buddy. It's more fun to work with friends anyway.
The instructions that come with the kit simply tell you to remove the inner/outer primary covers, but not how to do it.
1. Remove the battery, battery box and undo the starter bolts. It says to remove the starter completly but I was able to work my way around it, so I left it in its place. Ymmv, use your judgement. I did have to undo the electrical box on the left side of the bike as well, but that's because I've got the PCIII stuffed in there as well as a few other things and I wanted a little extra room to play.
2. Remove the starter. (See point one)
3. Remove the mid-mount shifter and the peg mount.
3.5 (EDITED) DRAIN THE PRIMARY!!!
4. Remove the inspection cover from the outer primary cover.
5. Next, remove the outer primary cover
6. Remove the chain tensioner (careful, it's spring loaded and will fly out if you're not careful).
7. Lock the primary drive sprocket to the clutch sproket with the lock tool (why you need #6- it holds everything in place, otherwise you'd move the bike or spin the wheel while doing everything up), and loosen the primary drive bolt.
8. Reverse the tool and remove the clutch adjustment bolt, the clutch release plate retaining spring (why you need #5) and the clutch release plate.
9. Once the clutch release plate is out, use your 30mm or 1 1/8" socket and remove the clutch nut. Note, this is reverse-threaded. Note, this is reverse-threaded. Note, this is reverse-threaded. Note, this is reverse-threaded.
10. The whole compensating sproket - clutch - chain has to come out at once. Do this carefully, it's awkward. Good time for that friend to stop drinking your beer and come actually help.
11. Remove the 5 bolts holding the inner primary casing to the crankcase/tranny. The inner case should come off very easily.
NOW: This is where I totally deviated from the instructions- I ended up replacing my inner/outer primary with one from a wideglide. All chrome, no shift hole. It looks beaut.
12. Remove the mid-control shifter arms and linkage. Throw it at your buddy. Some help he's been anyway. Did he even bring beer?
13. Install the new shift arm to the transmission
14. Install the new peg mounts in the forward position.
15. Attach the shift linkage to both ends - one on the tranny side one on the peg side.
16. Re-install the inner primary (I can't remember if there's something to plug the hole, look at your instructions. I didn't need to because I installed a wideglide inner primary too). Remember to use the new gasket.
17. Reinstall the compensating socket and the clutch. Get your buddy's drunk *** off the garage floor and get him to help you here. You can do it alone, but it's easier with two. Torque it to what it says in the manual. Remember that the clutch retaining nut is reverse threaded. reverse threaded. reverse threaded.
18. Reinstall the starter.
19. Install the clutch release plate and it's retaining ring. BE CAREFUL- it's easy to strip the threads on this piece, follow the instructions in the manual EXACTLY.
20. Re-install the chain tensioner. The trick here is to "compress" it so it's as small as possible and tie a ziptie around it so it stays together while you install it into the inner primary casing. Torque as indicated in the manual
21. Re-instal
i did mine on an 05 dyna with hd forwards and did it in less than half the time the dealer said it would take. plus i never done it before so there techs there really sux or im just freakin awsome!!! lol they even said they just moved it down from 3 hours to 2!!! i did it with wipe down and test ride in pretty much an hour. you can easily do this youself
wow, its much more difficult on later model bikes. my 98was simple, and its the same kit from 93to05. i guess in 06 it gets tricky. i bought my kit last fallfrom the harley shop for $239 and had it done in about and hour, including removing my old pegs. No fluids, no major surgery, just some bolts and a little adjustment.
The dealer is charging you to remove the primary to get to the shifter shaft and remove it.
The HD controls can be installed without removing the shifter shaft. A chrome cover goes over it.
I had an independent do the work for a litle less than$500 complete.
Sammi
The HD controls can be installed without removing the shifter shaft. A chrome cover goes over it.
I had an independent do the work for a litle less than$500 complete.
Sammi
I did mine on myLowrider, and taking my time I took about 4 1/2 hours, the cost was 289 for the HD kit and then an other 12 for the seal bolts that hold the inner primary to the engine case. Was not a tough job just took my time and followed the service manual.
This would also be a good time to change out any of those torx bolts with good allen heads that don't strip out as easy.
The other route is to leave the shaft in and push it back and out of the way. easy enough to do and sevral people have done it that way. Takes about an hour total if you do it this way.
Good luck whatever you do.
This would also be a good time to change out any of those torx bolts with good allen heads that don't strip out as easy.
The other route is to leave the shaft in and push it back and out of the way. easy enough to do and sevral people have done it that way. Takes about an hour total if you do it this way.
Good luck whatever you do.
Trending Topics
ORIGINAL: hounddog
i did mine on an 05 dyna with hd forwards and did it in less than half the time the dealer said it would take. plus i never done it before so there techs there really sux or im just freakin awsome!!! lol they even said they just moved it down from 3 hours to 2!!! i did it with wipe down and test ride in pretty much an hour. you can easily do this youself
i did mine on an 05 dyna with hd forwards and did it in less than half the time the dealer said it would take. plus i never done it before so there techs there really sux or im just freakin awsome!!! lol they even said they just moved it down from 3 hours to 2!!! i did it with wipe down and test ride in pretty much an hour. you can easily do this youself
Iused the Harley 05 kit with apolishedstainless 06 shift rod on my 2006 Low Rider. It is a simple bolt in, you don't have to remove the primary to remove the original shifter shaft, and it works with the original rear shift lever.
Part numbers here:
http://www.harley-davidson.com/brows...bmLocale=en_US
Check prices here:
https://www.zanottimotor.com/shopping/partLookUp.html
Read these posts:
https://www.hdforums.com/m_576946/tm.htm
https://www.hdforums.com/m_1314832/tm.htm
Part numbers here:
http://www.harley-davidson.com/brows...bmLocale=en_US
Check prices here:
https://www.zanottimotor.com/shopping/partLookUp.html
Read these posts:
https://www.hdforums.com/m_576946/tm.htm
https://www.hdforums.com/m_1314832/tm.htm


