WG front end wobble at low speed
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Joined: Aug 2012
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From: Detroit
Sounds like you have a pre-06 Wide Glide with the smaller diameter fork tubes. It's normal for that front end to shake around a little bit at certain rpms.
But at that age, it's almost certain that the clearance between the T-bracket and the snubber on the front engine mount is completely gone, and that will make it much worse.
I found the service bulletin, and it recommends .020 to .030 clearance, up to a maximum of .040 when trimming it. Restoring this clearance is a no-Bee-Ess fix that really works, and will dramatically reduce vibration on most bikes that are more than a few years old.
I'll try to get a photo later today of a feeler gauge sticking out of that spot so you know where it is. I put a jack under the engine to create a little clearance (there was none), and then trimmed it with a razor knife.
There's also a new aftermarket mount with a built-in horizontal stabilizer that's getting good reviews.
But at that age, it's almost certain that the clearance between the T-bracket and the snubber on the front engine mount is completely gone, and that will make it much worse.
I found the service bulletin, and it recommends .020 to .030 clearance, up to a maximum of .040 when trimming it. Restoring this clearance is a no-Bee-Ess fix that really works, and will dramatically reduce vibration on most bikes that are more than a few years old.
I'll try to get a photo later today of a feeler gauge sticking out of that spot so you know where it is. I put a jack under the engine to create a little clearance (there was none), and then trimmed it with a razor knife.
There's also a new aftermarket mount with a built-in horizontal stabilizer that's getting good reviews.
Last edited by Warp Factor; Jun 4, 2014 at 07:19 AM.
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Joined: Nov 2013
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If your front mount is shot which it sounds like it is you need to check the rear as well. I'd check both before you do anything. Trimming the worn out front isn't going to fix the problem and it may make it worse. A vibration from the mount bottoming out would transmit through the frame. You're describing a soft worn out mount. The problem you're describing if it is the mount would be allowing the engine to sink further into the lower front of the frame by trimming it. You can eyeball the back mount with a flashlight and mirror from under the bike and from the left side if you remove the belt guards. The front if you have a scissor jack you could have it off in ten minutes. I tried shim and trim and my front was so worn out it made it worse. Just my 2 cents.
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Joined: Aug 2012
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From: Detroit
This is where you check that gap on the front mount (see where the feeler gauge is inserted). The gap can be non-existent even on fairly new bikes. Rear mounts are rarely a problem on these bikes.
Vibration from the mount bottoming out transmits through the frame and shakes the front wheel, which is basically a weight hanging on the end of a long lever.
If the front of the engine rides slightly lower after trimming, it's not really an issue. Vertical alignment of the front of the engine isn't critical. Or you can buy new front mounts periodically.
Vibration from the mount bottoming out transmits through the frame and shakes the front wheel, which is basically a weight hanging on the end of a long lever.
If the front of the engine rides slightly lower after trimming, it's not really an issue. Vertical alignment of the front of the engine isn't critical. Or you can buy new front mounts periodically.
Last edited by Warp Factor; Jun 4, 2014 at 06:50 AM.
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Joined: Aug 2012
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Likes: 90
From: Detroit
Here's a thread on the new Vibra-Technics front motor mount, which also comes with a lateral stabilizer, and may solve these problems for good, as well as improving handling.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...t-install.html
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...t-install.html
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Road Master
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 831
Likes: 10
From: Kentucky
Thanks for the pictures! Now I know what to look for. I know the front mount in mine looks weathered but wasn't enzactly show what to look for if it was bad. I will check that gap after morning coffee kicks in
It's a 02 btw. Just turned 17000 miles at 12 years old.
It's a 02 btw. Just turned 17000 miles at 12 years old.
Last edited by JohnnyRebKY; Jun 4, 2014 at 07:24 AM.
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. Just remember the gap might not help it. Here's what mine looked like. I cut it so I had a gap but it was so squishy and worn out I had serious stability issues. I ended up replacing my rear as well, but I don't think my rear was ever bad. The new one was exactly like the old one. If you do go with a new front vibrat-echnics is the way to go. My old 98 is nice and stable now.
Last edited by br549A1; Jun 4, 2014 at 07:51 AM.
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Road Master
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 831
Likes: 10
From: Kentucky
Oh I will definitely go with a new mount if it's bad. I don't believe much in putting a band aid on a axe wound. If there's no gap when I go look then off to the dealer I go. I've got a trip from Kentucky to the Missouri Ozark's planned at first opportunity and I want everything to function properly.
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