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Ignition switch moved - Street Bob

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Old Feb 9, 2009 | 01:27 PM
  #91  
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kk6pg
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Also keep in mind you cant use the existing harness, it isnt long enough.
You must extend the wires. If you change color coding, write it down in the service manual and owners manual. That way you wont question what you did.

I never question what I did, but I do ask myself "What was I thinking" all the time.
 
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Old Feb 9, 2009 | 01:40 PM
  #92  
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Yeah, I read the entire post, but wasn't 100% sure, so that is why I asked, or I wouldn't have asked. But thanks for the concern there.

Originally Posted by bigmikaele
Hell, I think you will find what you need in the first couple of pages of this thread.
 
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Old Feb 9, 2009 | 01:49 PM
  #93  
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Thanks jmpancoast & kk6pg. Basically all were doing is unplugging the wiring from the switch in the neck, extending the wiring to reach the dash, and hooking it up to the new switch in the appropriate points, got it, I think.

jmpancoast, when you say mind that the switch is inverted, do your contacts face down towards the seat when installed? Is the switch operation opposite what it would be on a normal bike with this switch? I'm only asking because I have a dash mounted switch on my road king custom already. Turn right for ignition, straight for off, and left for accessory. Is this backwards on the dynas when done like this?

Also what is the preferred size holesaw to be used to make the closest fit, and what is the most professional looking grommet material to use?

Thanks for the help, this is by far the BEST mod on the dynas.
 
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Old Feb 9, 2009 | 02:14 PM
  #94  
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Originally Posted by yoseppi

jmpancoast, when you say mind that the switch is inverted, do your contacts face down towards the seat when installed? Is the switch operation opposite what it would be on a normal bike with this switch? I'm only asking because I have a dash mounted switch on my road king custom already. Turn right for ignition, straight for off, and left for accessory. Is this backwards on the dynas when done like this?
What I meant and should have said in my previous post was the console in that pic is upside down and would be flipped over to mount on bike.

Should be the same **** positions as your RK, but just to make sure we are on the same page........

This pic shows the switch mounted, the terminal locations, and the **** positions.

 

Last edited by jmpancoast; Feb 9, 2009 at 02:16 PM.
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Old Feb 10, 2009 | 01:49 PM
  #95  
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jmpancoast, I just realized, you lucked out with this mod because the ignition switch fit perfectly where the stock analog fuel gauge was. I assume you have a fuel gauge on your digital dash? Either that or you just do a mileage guesstimate.

Made that mod easier with no drilling required.


What is the preferred holesaw size to use for those that have had to drill their dashes to install the switch?

trying to avoid screwing up and making sure I get this right the 1st time, and don't end up buying a second dash. Also looking for a recommendation on some professional grommet material.

Thanks as always.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2009 | 02:49 PM
  #96  
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Originally Posted by yoseppi
jmpancoast, I just realized, you lucked out with this mod because the ignition switch fit perfectly where the stock analog fuel gauge was. I assume you have a fuel gauge on your digital dash? Either that or you just do a mileage guesstimate.

Made that mod easier with no drilling required.


What is the preferred holesaw size to use for those that have had to drill their dashes to install the switch?

trying to avoid screwing up and making sure I get this right the 1st time, and don't end up buying a second dash. Also looking for a recommendation on some professional grommet material.

Thanks as always.
Don't drill that hole yourself unless you have a drill press. That awkward dash will wiggle and twist out of your hand when the hole saw takes bite and lead you off-center.

As I recall, it's a 2" hole saw but take my advise and "Don't try this at home!"
 
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Old Feb 10, 2009 | 04:05 PM
  #97  
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Originally Posted by yoseppi
jmpancoast, I just realized, you lucked out with this mod because the ignition switch fit perfectly where the stock analog fuel gauge was. I assume you have a fuel gauge on your digital dash? Either that or you just do a mileage guesstimate.

Made that mod easier with no drilling required.
You have trivialized my ingenuity.

The switch was too small for the fuel gauge hole. I bought the chrome fuel gauge bezel trim and had to modify the body of the new switch in order to use it. The trim acts as the transition piece from the switch to the console.

And I use the trip odometer as a gas gauge now.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2009 | 06:08 PM
  #98  
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Oops, didn't mean to trivialize this awesome mod you did, and I don't have a drillpress, but do have access to a friend with one.

Maybe I'll half to wait till I can get together with my friend to do this mod. I swear someone could make some nice money selling "kits" like these online already made up to some extent for the less adventurous.

But I'm still going to try once I secure access to the tools.

Thanks again.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2009 | 06:20 PM
  #99  
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Yoseppi, just a thought, before you cut into your dash maybe try cutting the hole in something else first and make sure the switch fits like you want it to... if the gap and the grommet you use fit like you want then go to the dash. One thing I usually do when drilling metal is to find where I want it, take a nail or other suitable device and dimple the center, that way the drill bit in the center of the hole saw doesn't wander and so long as you have a good drill with a good speed and don't push it it should stay steady. Quick clamps do a good job of holding without marring the surface. Just some ideas...
 
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Old Feb 10, 2009 | 06:57 PM
  #100  
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Originally Posted by bigmikaele
Yoseppi, just a thought, before you cut into your dash maybe try cutting the hole in something else first and make sure the switch fits like you want it to... if the gap and the grommet you use fit like you want then go to the dash. One thing I usually do when drilling metal is to find where I want it, take a nail or other suitable device and dimple the center, that way the drill bit in the center of the hole saw doesn't wander and so long as you have a good drill with a good speed and don't push it it should stay steady. Quick clamps do a good job of holding without marring the surface. Just some ideas...
You just can't hold a 2" hole saw steady with a hand drill.
 
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