Battery drainage...
Could be the battery giving it up, could be your stator is bad, or it could be a connection problem... Put a meter across the terminals of your battery and measure these voltages and post your results:
Static- 12vdc minimum
Cranking- 9.5vdc minimum
Running- 13.5vdc minimum
Static- 12vdc minimum
Cranking- 9.5vdc minimum
Running- 13.5vdc minimum
Cranking - ~ ? (forgot to check)
Running - ~ 13.8vdc
I dont think the stator is bad....voltage regulator maybe?
Road Master
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,189
Likes: 3
From: Massachusetts
Does it have anything to do with this screw on the side of transmission?
[/QUOTE]
That stud near the rear of the transmission appears to have been for the original exhaust mounting bracket. Are you running an aftermarket exhaust?
[/QUOTE]That stud near the rear of the transmission appears to have been for the original exhaust mounting bracket. Are you running an aftermarket exhaust?
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 2,557
Likes: 235
From: Texas
12.7 vdc static is about right...
13.8 vdc charging is just a bit low. Ideally the charging volts will be 1.5 vdc above your static volts, in your case that would at least or just above 14 vdc. It could be your battery or stator is weak or your voltage regulator is going out...
You really do need to check the cranking volts...that will indicate whether or not your battery is weak and able to hold voltage while it is delivering full cold cranking amps.
I had a Gremlin hit me on Saturday afternoon...the outside temp was in the low 90s with high humidity and after running at freeway speeds for over an hour, I stopped and filled up the bike and sucked down some cold water. When I got ready to go on, my battery seemed to be too weak to crank the engine over and start. I let it cool down and got a jump and everything ran fine. I was really close to a dealer and they checked out the battery and charging system for me at no cost...and didn't find any problems.
13.8 vdc charging is just a bit low. Ideally the charging volts will be 1.5 vdc above your static volts, in your case that would at least or just above 14 vdc. It could be your battery or stator is weak or your voltage regulator is going out...
You really do need to check the cranking volts...that will indicate whether or not your battery is weak and able to hold voltage while it is delivering full cold cranking amps.
I had a Gremlin hit me on Saturday afternoon...the outside temp was in the low 90s with high humidity and after running at freeway speeds for over an hour, I stopped and filled up the bike and sucked down some cold water. When I got ready to go on, my battery seemed to be too weak to crank the engine over and start. I let it cool down and got a jump and everything ran fine. I was really close to a dealer and they checked out the battery and charging system for me at no cost...and didn't find any problems.
12.7 vdc static is about right...
13.8 vdc charging is just a bit low. Ideally the charging volts will be 1.5 vdc above your static volts, in your case that would at least or just above 14 vdc. It could be your battery or stator is weak or your voltage regulator is going out...
You really do need to check the cranking volts...that will indicate whether or not your battery is weak and able to hold voltage while it is delivering full cold cranking amps.
I had a Gremlin hit me on Saturday afternoon...the outside temp was in the low 90s with high humidity and after running at freeway speeds for over an hour, I stopped and filled up the bike and sucked down some cold water. When I got ready to go on, my battery seemed to be too weak to crank the engine over and start. I let it cool down and got a jump and everything ran fine. I was really close to a dealer and they checked out the battery and charging system for me at no cost...and didn't find any problems.
13.8 vdc charging is just a bit low. Ideally the charging volts will be 1.5 vdc above your static volts, in your case that would at least or just above 14 vdc. It could be your battery or stator is weak or your voltage regulator is going out...
You really do need to check the cranking volts...that will indicate whether or not your battery is weak and able to hold voltage while it is delivering full cold cranking amps.
I had a Gremlin hit me on Saturday afternoon...the outside temp was in the low 90s with high humidity and after running at freeway speeds for over an hour, I stopped and filled up the bike and sucked down some cold water. When I got ready to go on, my battery seemed to be too weak to crank the engine over and start. I let it cool down and got a jump and everything ran fine. I was really close to a dealer and they checked out the battery and charging system for me at no cost...and didn't find any problems.
I got off after a ride tonight and checked the voltage (not running); 13.39.
I'm hoping...HOPING...I fixed it this time...maybe I'll run it up to the dealer sometime in the next few days and have them do that same check.
So What I'm hoping the problem was/is....when I bought my new battery, the side posts made it so the positive battery cable was touching the chrome battery cover...I put some electrical tape on it...well after I had rode it a bit (the other day) after getting it back from the shop for the back wheel is when it died...I'm thinking it rubbed through with the vibration...so I put a bit of wire loom on it...So far....so good.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 2,557
Likes: 235
From: Texas
The cold cranking voltage is going to show you whether or not your battery is able to hold sufficient voltage level to energize the firing system and EFI and be able to deliver enough current to crank the cold engine. Ideally, your battery should not drop below ~10.5 volts during a continuous start cycle.
You might try make a cover for the terminal using a piece of plastic from an oil bottle or something like that...zip tie one end of it to the battery terminal wires.
You might try make a cover for the terminal using a piece of plastic from an oil bottle or something like that...zip tie one end of it to the battery terminal wires.
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 2,557
Likes: 235
From: Texas
I am running a carb as well but it's still gonna take over 9 volts for the electronic ignition system to fire...this test is probably the most indicative of battery condition short of doing a deep-cycle test.
So I forgot my key up in my vest, but I was able to run out to the garage before a haircut at lunch and quick check the sitting voltage...we're at 13.47...so thats a good sign as of right now...I'm hoping I can make it out here in a few hours and do the cranking test.