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Put the jiffy stand on a 2x4 and no oil will come out. Copy or get the part of the manual that references the the tightening sequence on the derby cover. A 100 inch pounds on each of the T27 torx when re-installing.
You'll need an 11/16ths 60 degree offset box end and a 7/16ths allen. Park the bike in 5th or 6th gear (whichever is the highest) and don't do the adjustment until the bike is stone cold. I know the manual says turn the adjuster until it lightly touches the diaphragm spring I would amend that to until it starts to put pressure on the diaphragm spring. Then, back it out the 1/2 to full turn: I usually do a 1/2 turn as I hate notchy shifting. Tighten the 11/16ths nut while holding the rod still with the allen. Work the clutch lever to set the *****, 2 or 3 pulls will do it. (you may need to move the cable adjuster to do that).
A cheap alternative to a Snap on 11/16th 60 degree offset box end is one of those multi size dog bone wrenches from HF. They pivot away from the case and will allow for the allen to go thru to hold the adjuster.
Clean up the derby cover and gasket to make sure no oil provides a pathway to leak after re-assembly. Install T27 torx, tighten in sequence to 100 inch pounds. Adjust free play at the lever, move the rubber cover back over the adjuster and you're good.
I probably missed some stuff but it's 0530 and I haven't had all my coffee yet.
That was about the clearest explanation on the topic I've read yet. Good info regarding which tools you'll need as well.
You don't have to drain any oil as long as you prop the bikee up to almost level. Level is also good as long as you can secure the bike so it won't tip over.
That's right, and also do the adjustment while the engine is cold or room temperature, don't ask me how I know this.
lotsa good help on these threads and videos on youtube - I used to keep a playlist of "Harley maintenance" videos when I first started working on my bike for oil changes, cable adjustments etc. I have a manual too but sometimes seeing it helps clear up some inbetween steps the manual skips over.
Thanks a lot for the info. Sounds and looks pretty much doable. No problem. Done my share of Saturday mechanic for quite a while, so this clutch adjustment looks straight forward.
Have exposed the screw by removing the cover on tranny twice over , oil tank and battery outta the way . Much Easier to see it whilst Im repairing the whole pawl shift assembly too !!
Transmission out but trap door still suck , gear shafts seem to be good and stuck, its no wonder why people buy other style bikes without shifting problems from the get go, so down to the pawl screw that is the (o higher side in towards the notch or the high side facing outside the notch or spring ? Im getting the revised version with squared spring baker has the new type around 80 bucks I got that part and the screw looks fine , does it favor outside or the inside thats got me where I read it , thanks?
Have exposed the screw by removing the cover on tranny twice over , oil tank and battery outta the way . Much Easier to see it whilst Im repairing the whole pawl shift assembly too !!
Transmission out but trap door still suck , gear shafts seem to be good and stuck, its no wonder why people buy other style bikes without shifting problems from the get go, so down to the pawl screw that is the (o higher side in towards the notch or the high side facing outside the notch or spring ? Im getting the revised version with squared spring baker has the new type around 80 bucks I got that part and the screw looks fine , does it favor outside or the inside thats got me where I read it , thanks?
What??!? My head hurts after trying to understand that.
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