how to keep "Z" bars from moving

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Sep 2, 2014 | 04:00 PM

#11

JRK5892

Banned

Joined: Mar 2007

Posts: 19,481

Likes: 25

From: Chicago suburbs (Elgin/Schaumburg)

cut a small piece of emery cloth, put it under the riser clamp, done and done, i do it almost every time i do bars for customers

Sep 2, 2014 | 04:10 PM

#12

Misbehaven

Elite HDF Member

Joined: Dec 2010

Posts: 4,501

Likes: 26

From: Sheboygan,Wi

Dry wall sanding screen works great. Cut some strips and wrap around your bars at he clamp area.

Sep 2, 2014 | 07:09 PM

#13

Bklim

Novice

Joined: Aug 2014

Posts: 15

Likes: 0

From: Western, NY

I had similar problems with my 12" apes on my '07 FXD, they were always tweeking. I found an odd fix in my local Home Depot. In the area near the fastners, I found these flat S.S. double knurled strips, they are about 1"x2" . They are made for cutting up and inserting into stripped holes where both sides will grab (Screw and hole wall). I used the entire strip on the bottom of each riser under the bar and followed the H-D specs for torquing the riser bolt clamps. The rough side of these strips grabbed the riser and the bar and it's not moved once all summer. Wish I could remember the name or brand but they did work. You don't have to worry about the wires in your bars with this fix. Good Luck !

Sep 3, 2014 | 04:29 AM

#14

loopie

Road Captain

Joined: Apr 2013

Posts: 583

Likes: 4

From: australia

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRK5892

cut a small piece of emery cloth, put it under the riser clamp, done and done, i do it almost every time i do bars for customers

if you do that I wouldn't even let you touch a pushbike, are you for real ,,,

im sure the insurance company/lawyer will sue your **** when theres a issue...

:icon_ smash:

Sep 3, 2014 | 04:55 AM

#15

Deadhead77

Cruiser

Joined: Feb 2014

Posts: 195

Likes: 3

From: Oklahoma

Quote:

Originally Posted by loopie

if you do that I wouldn't even let you touch a pushbike, are you for real ,,,

im sure the insurance company/lawyer will sue your **** when theres a issue...

:icon_ smash:

Seriously? I mean really? You people hating on this subject and the people providing useful info on how to fix it. JRK5892 knows what he's doing...just ask around. It's obvious the people running their mouths have never run a bike with tall bars. High dollar or cheap bars can both have a tendency to move in the risers whether knurled or not. I have used skateboard grip tape between the bars and risers on several different bikes with great results.

Sep 4, 2014 | 10:10 AM

#16

INJEKTER

Road Warrior

Joined: Jun 2009

Posts: 1,724

Likes: 205

From: ORYGON

MY post is in reference to buying some cheap sub par online Chinese part... like a bar that is supposed to have a 1" OD but is really 3/4..... i wouldn't waste my time with that.... that's all i meant....otherwise, fixes for a specked out part sound great....

Sep 4, 2014 | 10:29 AM

#17

Deadhead77

Cruiser

Joined: Feb 2014

Posts: 195

Likes: 3

From: Oklahoma

Quote:

Originally Posted by INJEKTER

It's all good bro! I'm with ya! Sorry to vent but the ridiculous comment from the loopie Aussie got me fired up.

Sep 4, 2014 | 10:48 AM

#18

Ninety8NeonACR

Tourer

Joined: May 2013

Posts: 367

Likes: 38

From: WI

I have 16" apes and had to use emery cloth on my knurled bars. I cut 2 strips almost long enough to wrap around the bars and folded them in half sideways so there was grit on both sides, wrapped them around the bars and installed the top clamp. When you run taller bars the amount of torque on them will move them without doing something like this.