I'm about to lose it! A year ago I put new apes on my 2012 Street Glide. I extended all of the wiring myself, cut, extended, soldered, heat shrinked, pulled through, and reassembled connectors. Almost everything worked perfectly except the check engine light was on, my bike was in limp mode, and my cruise control didn't work. I had a shop read the codes and they said it had to do with my throttle body sensor. I figured that I nicked a wire pulling it through.

So I just bought a new HD part throttle body sensor that has longer wires, except they didn't make 2 of the wires, a sheathed black and white wire, long enough, so I extended them properly. I read a suggestion to help pull the new wires through easier and it worked. I just temporarily remounted the bars and plugged the wires back in. Everything on the left handle works as it did before. The bike starts, blinkers work, but now I have no throttle control at all. It just idles with the check engine light on. I went from bad to worse. GGGRRRRRRR.

I read a thread about some throttle by wire failures that ended up being a connection behind the air cleaner, but all of those seemed to be older models than mine. And my problem only surfaced due to the changing of the bars.

Any advice before I pull my hair out?

 

Follow the plug that the TBW goes into back between the fairing and gas tank where the factory Zip-tie is (too tight) and squeeze and jiggle the wires. If throttle comes back or RPM's jump like crazy, You'll need to pull the tank peel back the casing and "feel" the wires individually. They can and do break inside the insulation. Just something to try/eliminate.

 

Check for codes:
http://www.fuelmotousa.com/p-29661-h...es.html#pcodes

Let us know if you pull any

 

Here is something else to check:
TT418A service bulletin applies to 2008-Later Touring, Police & Trike Models

Symptoms: Driveability or Performance Concerns; Abnormal or Erratic Mechanical Operation; Intermittent or Erratic Electrical Operation.

Note: Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) circuit DTC's P0120, P0220, P0122, P0123, P0222 and P223 should take diagnostic priority over a P2135 code. If any of these TPS codes exist concurrently with the P2135, they should be investigated first using the diagnostic manual.

The TCA has two potentiometers (designated as TPS1 & TPS2) and a electric DC motor for controlling the actuation of the throttle. The two TPS sensors work opposite of each other. As the throttle plate opens , TPS1 voltage ranges from 0.0-5.0 Volts, while TPS2 voltage ranges from 5.0-0.0 volts. The sum of the two TPS voltages should always measure approximately 5.0 volts. These wire are: TPS1, pin # 37 (BN/V wire) of the ECM, and TPS2 pin #36 (BN/R wire) of the ECM

The TPS1 and TPS2 sensors should never add to more than 5.13 Volts Direct Current (VDC) or less than 4.87 VDC . A sum of voltages out of this range should register a current P2135 code.

Troubleshooting:

It is believed that FRETTING CORROSION is a major contributor of this code. A poor connection at the Throttle Control Actuator (TCA) can affect the sensor voltages reported to the ECM and this will set this DTC. As you can see from the General Information section, the sensor voltage only need to be altered by 0.13 VDC to possibly set the code.

The most common vehicles to have these symptoms are those with more than 8,000 miles (12875 Kilometers) or 103 cubic inch and larger engines. Vibration is believed to contribute to the FRETTING CONDITION.

Repair Procedure:1. While monitoring the TPS1 and TPS2 voltages on Digital Technician 2 (DT 2), wiggle the TCA [211] and the ECM [78] connectors.
2. If the voltage changes while wiggling the ECM connector , replace the affected ECM terminals (part # 72605-08). These wires are: TPS1, pin #37 brown/violet wire of the ECM, and TPS2, pin #36 brown/red wire of the ECM.
3. If no voltage change is noted while moving the ECM connector , the connection issue could be in the TCA. Replace all socket terminals with NEW terminals (part # 72663-11, used in current production) at the TCA connector[211B].
4. BEFORE CONNECTING the TCA CONNECTOR, clean the male TCA pin terminals with a swab and alcohol, and ASSEMBLE WITH DIELECTRIC GREASE.

DTC P2101
General Information: The TCA contains two potentiometers (designated as TPS1 & TPS2) and a electric DC motor for controlling a actuation of the throttle. TPS1 & TPS2 are mounted in the TCA. They are connected to the keyed shaft of the throttle plate and used to communicate the throttle plate position.
Each TPS supplies input to the ECM in response to the position of the throttle plate. The ECM activates the motor in the TCA to move the throttle plate, based on signals from the Twist Grip Sensor (TGS). When the ECM send voltage modulations to pins 2 & 3 0f the TCA to move the throttle motor, it checks fo subsequent TPS1 and TPS2 voltage changes. If it does not sense TPS changes it will set this code.

Troubleshooting: First verify that the throttle plate moves freely when engine is not running. If it does not the TCA needs to be replaced.
Poor ECM connections seem to be the most likely cause. Be aware that this issue may be aggravated by the seat pan making contact with the ECM connector. In most cases, this is caused by the installation of an aftermarket seat.
A poor connection at ECM pins #29 & 30 could cause an interruption in voltage to the throttle motor and set this code. Similarly the ECM uses voltage from pin #52 yellow/green wire to supply power used at pins #29 & 30 and could cause the same symptoms.

Repair Procedure:
Identifying the connection issues at this location may be difficult.
1. Replace all socket terminals with NEW terminals (part #72663-11 used in current production) at the TCA connector [211B].
2. BEFORE CONNECTING the TCA CONNECTOR, clean the male TCA pin terminals with a swab and alcohol, and ASSEMBLE WITH DIELECTRIC GREASE

 

It will be a good week or more before I can get the codes read, but that's at the top of my list when I get back.

 

Read the codes this morning.

 

Do you think the TGS connector in the handle bar may have come loose?

You could unplug connector 204 in the fairing and check to see if you have continuity through the TGS.

 

Just this morning a member of technical crew came and asked for soldering equipment, he needed to solder some wires. He was surprised we did not have acid core solder. He had no clue acid core should never be used on electrical connections. OP, did you use rosin flux?

 

Put a carburetor on it.

 

Ok, today's priority 1 is getting this thing running!!!!!

First of all, how do you identify a connection in the harness by number? For instance connector 204. Looking at the actual connector, how do I know it's #204?

Secondly I am confused at the wiring diagram that was posted on here. Unless I'm reading it wrong it shows the TGS having different color wires than I have. My TGS connector has a total of 8 wires coming out of it. A black and white pair that I believe to be for heated hand grips, then a yellow sheathed set of a red, white, and black wires and a black sheathed set of red, white, and black wires. I have seen the attached photo in the forum and I believe that this is wired correctly.

(I believe this because if I wire the black, white, and red wires in reverse, the bike won't even start. Found this out the hard way.)

I'm about to go purchase some dielectric grease to put in all my connections to see if that helps, but other than that I'm still at a loss.