Battery Light ON when Braking
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 245
Likes: 2
From: Quebec
Battery Light ON when Braking
Hello fellow harley owners.
Recently have had trouble with my 2000 Dyna FXDX.
For the last few months have noticed that when braking the BATTERY LIGHT would come on on the Panel. Would rev engine a bit and battery light would come off. Didn't bother. But recently on a ride battery light would be ON constantly. Took a RUSH ride back home and measured voltages. Coming out of Stator would read around 30 Volts AC at around 3000 RPM, then measured AFTER the voltage regulator and got only 1.43 volts. SO ordered voltage regulator and changed that. Voltage at the BREAKER is around 13.12 and at the battery is 13.25 at about 2200 RPM. BUT when I brake I still have the battery light turning on. Turned all flashers and headlights and all with no battery light but as soon as I press the brakes, the battery light immediately turns on. Thought about loose battery connection, check that - OK. Tried to see if nitched wiring under the fender but that also seems OK.
Here is my question, could this be a PLUG ISSUE in the rear light or ( OH NO ) need to change the Stator. Bike has 70000 km on it. When there is no bulb no problem but as soon as I put in the bulb the Battery Light comes on when I brake.
Thanks everyone for your input
Andre Boutin
Québec Canada
Recently have had trouble with my 2000 Dyna FXDX.
For the last few months have noticed that when braking the BATTERY LIGHT would come on on the Panel. Would rev engine a bit and battery light would come off. Didn't bother. But recently on a ride battery light would be ON constantly. Took a RUSH ride back home and measured voltages. Coming out of Stator would read around 30 Volts AC at around 3000 RPM, then measured AFTER the voltage regulator and got only 1.43 volts. SO ordered voltage regulator and changed that. Voltage at the BREAKER is around 13.12 and at the battery is 13.25 at about 2200 RPM. BUT when I brake I still have the battery light turning on. Turned all flashers and headlights and all with no battery light but as soon as I press the brakes, the battery light immediately turns on. Thought about loose battery connection, check that - OK. Tried to see if nitched wiring under the fender but that also seems OK.
Here is my question, could this be a PLUG ISSUE in the rear light or ( OH NO ) need to change the Stator. Bike has 70000 km on it. When there is no bulb no problem but as soon as I put in the bulb the Battery Light comes on when I brake.
Thanks everyone for your input
Andre Boutin
Québec Canada
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 32,934
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From: Carlsbad, CA
If it only does it if you brake when the bike is moving, it might be something loose or getting pibched. That is...I'd it doesn't do it when the bike is still and you appl the brakes.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 32,934
Likes: 36,032
From: Carlsbad, CA
Thinking this thru a bit more.
- if it was a chaffed wire, the amount of current shorting out to drop the voltage should blow a fuse.
- have you put a meter on the battery and measured idling voltage, then at about 2,000 rpm...then see what happens to those voltsges when you press the brake?
- if it was a chaffed wire, the amount of current shorting out to drop the voltage should blow a fuse.
- have you put a meter on the battery and measured idling voltage, then at about 2,000 rpm...then see what happens to those voltsges when you press the brake?
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 245
Likes: 2
From: Quebec
Haven't checked when I press the brake but will do it tomorrow and get back to you. I have checked the STATOR voltage which is around 31 VAC at around 2000 RPM. The voltage at the battery at 2000 RPM is 13.2 V with new voltage regulator. At the breaker it is very close to 13.2, varying from 13.08 to 13.2 VDC
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 245
Likes: 2
From: Quebec
#bustert. I changed the original MICKEY MOUSE gauges for a DAKOTA gauge. LOL
OK Tigeezer. Did the test tonight. Here are the results. Had trouble starting bike, thought it was cold and pulled choke (NOT INJECTION STILL CARB) but wasn't cold enough, in short took some drain from battery.
Tested GROUND to output of BREAKER. At Idle got 12.76 VDC. Reved to 2000 RPM and raised to 12.98. Turned on the brakes and went down to 12.85 VDC. Redid test several times just to confirm. Same Results. STILL THINK STATOR Issue but not sure.
Question. Could this be a BAD REGULATOR or should I test the output DIRECTLY from the STATOR (AC VOLTAGE) using diaper pins (UNDER LOAD). When I installed the new REGULATOR I measured 31 VAC at around 1500 RPM. I think this is not enough according to CLYMER manual.
Please correct me if I am wrong.
Thanks for any response
OK Tigeezer. Did the test tonight. Here are the results. Had trouble starting bike, thought it was cold and pulled choke (NOT INJECTION STILL CARB) but wasn't cold enough, in short took some drain from battery.
Tested GROUND to output of BREAKER. At Idle got 12.76 VDC. Reved to 2000 RPM and raised to 12.98. Turned on the brakes and went down to 12.85 VDC. Redid test several times just to confirm. Same Results. STILL THINK STATOR Issue but not sure.
Question. Could this be a BAD REGULATOR or should I test the output DIRECTLY from the STATOR (AC VOLTAGE) using diaper pins (UNDER LOAD). When I installed the new REGULATOR I measured 31 VAC at around 1500 RPM. I think this is not enough according to CLYMER manual.
Please correct me if I am wrong.
Thanks for any response
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2008
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follow the book, ac test open, ohm resistance and check to ground. regulator has a GOOD ground, can not work without it.
where did you tie the gauge to??? is it tied to source for the brake light??? ideally it should be tied to switched main power source. circuit breaker may have resistive contact, aka voltage drop when current is applied.
where did you tie the gauge to??? is it tied to source for the brake light??? ideally it should be tied to switched main power source. circuit breaker may have resistive contact, aka voltage drop when current is applied.
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 32,934
Likes: 36,032
From: Carlsbad, CA
#bustert. I changed the original MICKEY MOUSE gauges for a DAKOTA gauge. LOL
OK Tigeezer. Did the test tonight. Here are the results. Had trouble starting bike, thought it was cold and pulled choke (NOT INJECTION STILL CARB) but wasn't cold enough, in short took some drain from battery.
Tested GROUND to output of BREAKER. At Idle got 12.76 VDC. Reved to 2000 RPM and raised to 12.98. Turned on the brakes and went down to 12.85 VDC. Redid test several times just to confirm. Same Results. STILL THINK STATOR Issue but not sure.
Question. Could this be a BAD REGULATOR or should I test the output DIRECTLY from the STATOR (AC VOLTAGE) using diaper pins (UNDER LOAD). When I installed the new REGULATOR I measured 31 VAC at around 1500 RPM. I think this is not enough according to CLYMER manual.
Please correct me if I am wrong.
Thanks for any response
OK Tigeezer. Did the test tonight. Here are the results. Had trouble starting bike, thought it was cold and pulled choke (NOT INJECTION STILL CARB) but wasn't cold enough, in short took some drain from battery.
Tested GROUND to output of BREAKER. At Idle got 12.76 VDC. Reved to 2000 RPM and raised to 12.98. Turned on the brakes and went down to 12.85 VDC. Redid test several times just to confirm. Same Results. STILL THINK STATOR Issue but not sure.
Question. Could this be a BAD REGULATOR or should I test the output DIRECTLY from the STATOR (AC VOLTAGE) using diaper pins (UNDER LOAD). When I installed the new REGULATOR I measured 31 VAC at around 1500 RPM. I think this is not enough according to CLYMER manual.
Please correct me if I am wrong.
Thanks for any response
Thread Starter
|
Cruiser
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 245
Likes: 2
From: Quebec
Results of tests
Hello TriGeezer.
Here are the tests that I have done
From Stator Plug, Using Rx1 Scale on OHM METER:
One prong of plug and other to Ground, DO NOT HAVE INFINATE. Meaning STATOR IS GROUND according to CLYMER MANUAL.
Then tested RESISTANCE on both stator plugs, resistance is at .2 OHMS which is good according to CLYMER.
Then checked Continuity from output of REGULATOR to screw on BREAKER where the REGULATOR connects to the BREAKER, Continuity OK
Then started Bike, checked the output of STATOR at IDLE. Idle = 15 VAC
2000 RPM = 31 VAC 3000 RPM = 41 VAC (According to Clymer is OK)
Plugged the Regulator to Stator and measured from GROUND to PLUG on BREAKER. at IDLE = 12.40 VDC 2000 RPM = 12.60 VDC 3000 RPM = 12.85 VDC. When I press the BRAKE the voltage drops by ONLY .05 VDC on my Digital Voltmeter. Just to make sure also used a ANALOG Voltmeter and current seems to stay just above 12 VDC.
QUESTIONS:
Why is it that if my stator indicates that it is GROUNDED that it still produces the RIGHT AMOUNT of VAC?
Could this STATOR BEING GROUNDED have any relation to the EXTRA VOLTAGE sent to the BRAKE LIGHT when engageing the brake?
Any ENLIGHTENMENT to a Very Puzzled Harley Owner is appreciated.
Thanks
Andre
Here are the tests that I have done
From Stator Plug, Using Rx1 Scale on OHM METER:
One prong of plug and other to Ground, DO NOT HAVE INFINATE. Meaning STATOR IS GROUND according to CLYMER MANUAL.
Then tested RESISTANCE on both stator plugs, resistance is at .2 OHMS which is good according to CLYMER.
Then checked Continuity from output of REGULATOR to screw on BREAKER where the REGULATOR connects to the BREAKER, Continuity OK
Then started Bike, checked the output of STATOR at IDLE. Idle = 15 VAC
2000 RPM = 31 VAC 3000 RPM = 41 VAC (According to Clymer is OK)
Plugged the Regulator to Stator and measured from GROUND to PLUG on BREAKER. at IDLE = 12.40 VDC 2000 RPM = 12.60 VDC 3000 RPM = 12.85 VDC. When I press the BRAKE the voltage drops by ONLY .05 VDC on my Digital Voltmeter. Just to make sure also used a ANALOG Voltmeter and current seems to stay just above 12 VDC.
QUESTIONS:
Why is it that if my stator indicates that it is GROUNDED that it still produces the RIGHT AMOUNT of VAC?
Could this STATOR BEING GROUNDED have any relation to the EXTRA VOLTAGE sent to the BRAKE LIGHT when engageing the brake?
Any ENLIGHTENMENT to a Very Puzzled Harley Owner is appreciated.
Thanks
Andre