VOES elimation possible?
#1
VOES elimation possible?
I have a 97 wide glide 80" 32k miles. Not getting a good strong vacuum on my carb slide so I am thinking the VOES may be the issue since I already rebuilt carb. I do have a bad voltage regulator confirmed by multimeter tests.
Would the voltage regulator being bad have any effect on lift of vacuum piston in the carb?
Anyway to eliminate the Voes by some aftermarket parts/mods?
Would the voltage regulator being bad have any effect on lift of vacuum piston in the carb?
Anyway to eliminate the Voes by some aftermarket parts/mods?
#2
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Then Wisconsin, now North Carolina
Posts: 3,172
Received 886 Likes
on
621 Posts
You should check the slide diaphragm for a pinhole, tear or bloating.
If you have installed the needle jet upside down (curved side faces up) it will barely get out of it's way then kind of turn on. This is the silver tube with the collar on it that the slide needle passes through. Again - curved side faces up.
The Voes simply receives intake manifold vacuum and is either on or off - it's a vacuum operated switch. This should not affect your carb slide.
The voltage regulator will not affect intake vacuum.
If I remember correctly you've had a few threads on charging and carbs. If you've done anything pertinent, it would be good to share it here so we can help as accurately as possible!
Last edited by Ed Ramberger; 06-16-2018 at 09:37 AM.
#3
Yes. Have been fighting the carb and Ive been over it so thoroughly Im 1000% certain its not the carb at all.
I charged the battery and the voltage dropped to under 11.5V after sitting and not being even started in 2 days. I recharge battery and this time and unplug regulator and battery stayed charged fully.
I checked the stator and VR according to the testing pinned here. Only issue I had was a tiny blip on the volts on the meter when checking VR with black lead to ground. Every other test passed.
I only thought the VOES switch was an issue because putting compressed air thru the carb with it off the bike opens and closes normally. Installed seems to have some hesiststion.
I charged the battery and the voltage dropped to under 11.5V after sitting and not being even started in 2 days. I recharge battery and this time and unplug regulator and battery stayed charged fully.
I checked the stator and VR according to the testing pinned here. Only issue I had was a tiny blip on the volts on the meter when checking VR with black lead to ground. Every other test passed.
I only thought the VOES switch was an issue because putting compressed air thru the carb with it off the bike opens and closes normally. Installed seems to have some hesiststion.
#4
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Then Wisconsin, now North Carolina
Posts: 3,172
Received 886 Likes
on
621 Posts
Yes. Have been fighting the carb and Ive been over it so thoroughly Im 1000% certain its not the carb at all.
I charged the battery and the voltage dropped to under 11.5V after sitting and not being even started in 2 days. I recharge battery and this time and unplug regulator and battery stayed charged fully.
I checked the stator and VR according to the testing pinned here. Only issue I had was a tiny blip on the volts on the meter when checking VR with black lead to ground. Every other test passed.
I only thought the VOES switch was an issue because putting compressed air thru the carb with it off the bike opens and closes normally. Installed seems to have some hesiststion.
I charged the battery and the voltage dropped to under 11.5V after sitting and not being even started in 2 days. I recharge battery and this time and unplug regulator and battery stayed charged fully.
I checked the stator and VR according to the testing pinned here. Only issue I had was a tiny blip on the volts on the meter when checking VR with black lead to ground. Every other test passed.
I only thought the VOES switch was an issue because putting compressed air thru the carb with it off the bike opens and closes normally. Installed seems to have some hesiststion.
you can use a straw to blow in the port or like this guy with very very low pressure.
.
Last edited by Ed Ramberger; 06-17-2018 at 10:31 AM.
#5
Shane Conley videos are my single most used resource after the service manual. I did this procedure exactly. Even after testing it, I still replaced it and got the same speed of operation.
I am admittedly replace happy on this bike. The dealership had no info on its history except for the oil change, front brake and tire they did to make it pass PA inspection.
32k miles, I figure stuff will go bad eventually so just start replacing anything thats not in tip top shape
I am admittedly replace happy on this bike. The dealership had no info on its history except for the oil change, front brake and tire they did to make it pass PA inspection.
32k miles, I figure stuff will go bad eventually so just start replacing anything thats not in tip top shape
#6
If the slide operation is not smooth with vacuum pressure try a manual manipulation of the slide see if you need to do a polish on the slide and the carb side, you may be getting some binding there, another source is the needle itself, have you verified that the needle jet is installed correctly as pictured in the previous post? Check the diaphragm as was previously mentioned as well if you didn't have the binding with manual manipulation. Is the hole blocked in the slide? Has someone enlarged the hole too much? I have had very good luck with CVP parts, I really like the performance of their needle.As far as charging issues go looks like you may be having a paracitic drain with that VR if yuy are getting any continuity to ground, so Chang it out.
Last edited by Zanthamos; 06-17-2018 at 11:35 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post