Stator?
Thread Starter
|
Cruiser
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 219
Likes: 12
Right,...that is completely unheard of. Hope your post helped you feel better or whatever,. Not sure why someone gets their kicks out of bashing a guy trying to get some help. Yes you are way more knowledgeable then me. Feel better?
Thread Starter
|
Cruiser
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 219
Likes: 12
That's true Rip, I just hope he didn't pay someone to do it. If he did it himself maybe this will help.
P=IE
Watts are a measure of electrical power. The formula above is Power, aka Watts = I, (current in amps) times E which is Voltage.
We know your amp is rated at 1000 Watts so if you divide it by the bikes Voltage you can calculate the number of amps you need to run it all out. 1000 / 12 = 83 amps.
When you replace the Stator or Regulator or both also remove the Amplifier.
Another quick stator check is to remove the Derby cover on the Primary and see if the oil smells like a burnt circuit board.
Good luck
P=IE
Watts are a measure of electrical power. The formula above is Power, aka Watts = I, (current in amps) times E which is Voltage.
We know your amp is rated at 1000 Watts so if you divide it by the bikes Voltage you can calculate the number of amps you need to run it all out. 1000 / 12 = 83 amps.
When you replace the Stator or Regulator or both also remove the Amplifier.
Another quick stator check is to remove the Derby cover on the Primary and see if the oil smells like a burnt circuit board.
Good luck
Thread Starter
|
Cruiser
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 219
Likes: 12
Yes...it started and ran fine all day. We did shut off "****" (liner and amp) multiple times and the battery light would shut off after 15 - 20 minutes of riding. The next morning without the charger or anything the battery was still at 12.6 volts. thank you for your help.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 38,298
Likes: 6,324
From: Honah Lee
You probably are OK. It's charging if it reads 12.6. At idle with more load then stock, it can show lower. 2000 rpm is base check. With no load other then stock bike headlights on.
Cut off the fans,heaters,gloves,amps,AC.. ect...
Cut off the fans,heaters,gloves,amps,AC.. ect...
Last edited by Jackie Paper; May 13, 2019 at 08:30 AM.
Thread Starter
|
Cruiser
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 219
Likes: 12
Thank you...looking into high output charging system.
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Club Member
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 7,675
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From: Utah
My apologies for the first post.
http://cycleelectricinc.com/
Cycle Electric is the first place I would call and see what is available.
I looked in the HD parts and accessories catalog and the Boom Amps sold there are 300 watts, 300/12 is still 25 amps.
The Voltage Regulator lead have little clips to hold the connectors in place, I'll add a picture.
Here is the procedure to test a charging system if you're able to get the connectors loose.
Testing:
Connectors and cables should be checked and cleaned first. Loose and corroded connectors, terminals and grounds can cause high resistance, impeding current flow. Check cables for broken or rubbed insulation and check continuity to make sure the conductor is not broken inside the insulation.
Coating connectors with dielectric grease will keep moisture out and reduce corrosion.
Use the schematics in the HD Electrical Diagnostic or Service manual to determine the location of additional connectors.
Battery testing:
First check and clean battery terminals, Battery cables and ground connections. To check cables, disconnect one end and Ohm out, wiggle while testing. Cables can and will corrode and the evidence can be concealed under the insulation.
If you are unsure of the battery’s condition charge it fully and take it to an auto parts store and have it load tested.
Voltmeter test:
Connect voltmeter positive to positive terminal on battery and voltmeter negative to battery negative terminal.
12.7 v = 100% charge
12.6 v = 75%
12.3 v = 50%
12.0 v = 25%
11.8 v = 0%
Watch the battery voltage when you start the bike, if a fully charged battery falls below 9.6 volts it’s time to replace it.
If a well charged battery runs down if the bike sits for a short time perform a current draw test. Set your meter to read 10 amps current. Pull your main fuse and insert the meter leads. Here’s a list of components and what current they will draw in milli amps, 1/1000 of an amp) from the 2015 manual:
LHCM 0.5
RHCM 0.5
Speedometer/ IM 0.5
Regulator 1.0
ABS 1.0
BCM 1.0
ECM 1.0
Security Siren 20.0
Radio 0.5
Amplifier 0.5
CB Module 0.5
If the Battery passes all tests check the charging system.
Charging System Testing:
Volt meter set to DCV 20V scale or higher.
With the bike in neutral and voltmeter attached to the battery, start the engine and rev to 3,000 rpm. If the voltage measures 13V – 14.7V the charging system is operating properly. If less than 13V test the Stator first. If Greater than 15.5V test the Voltage Regulator.
Stator testing
Turn the bike off and disconnect the Stator from the Voltage Regulator.
Testing a 3 phase Stator, (A single phase stator is tested in the same manner but the plug will only have 2 sockets).
The end of the connector from the stator has 3 sockets. Set your meter to ohms and connect one lead to the battery negative. With the other lead make contact with the conductors inside each socket. You are checking for a grounded coil winding, each socket should show an open circuit to ground, no continuity.
Now take both meter leads and check resistance between each of the three sockets, 1-2, 2-3 and 1-3. The resistance should be 0.1 – 0.3 ohm.
Next check the Stator’s AC output. Set the meter to ACV 100V scale. With the Stator unplugged from the VR and the bike in neutral, start the bike. Run the bike at 2,000 rpm and check the Stator output between sockets 1-2, 2-3 and 1-3. The voltage should read approximately 32-46 Volts AC, for the 50 amp Stator. Stators with other Amp ratings will be similar.
If the Stator continuity tests to ground and Phase to Phase are good but the output is not the Rotor may be bad.
One other indication that the stator may be bad is if your primary oil smells like a burnt circuit board.
Voltage Regulator Testing
Voltage readings of 15.5V and higher test wire from VR negative to battery negative, if less than 0.5 ohm replace Voltage Regulator.
If the output is less than 13V from the Voltage Regulator to the battery and the Stator output is good, disconnect the output cable from the VR to the Battery. Check continuity between the Voltage Regulator Positive wire and the battery Positive and the negative wire and battery negative. Repair or replace cable if needed. If the cables are good and the Stator tested well replace the Voltage Regulator.
http://cycleelectricinc.com/
Cycle Electric is the first place I would call and see what is available.
I looked in the HD parts and accessories catalog and the Boom Amps sold there are 300 watts, 300/12 is still 25 amps.
The Voltage Regulator lead have little clips to hold the connectors in place, I'll add a picture.
Here is the procedure to test a charging system if you're able to get the connectors loose.
Testing:
Connectors and cables should be checked and cleaned first. Loose and corroded connectors, terminals and grounds can cause high resistance, impeding current flow. Check cables for broken or rubbed insulation and check continuity to make sure the conductor is not broken inside the insulation.
Coating connectors with dielectric grease will keep moisture out and reduce corrosion.
Use the schematics in the HD Electrical Diagnostic or Service manual to determine the location of additional connectors.
Battery testing:
First check and clean battery terminals, Battery cables and ground connections. To check cables, disconnect one end and Ohm out, wiggle while testing. Cables can and will corrode and the evidence can be concealed under the insulation.
If you are unsure of the battery’s condition charge it fully and take it to an auto parts store and have it load tested.
Voltmeter test:
Connect voltmeter positive to positive terminal on battery and voltmeter negative to battery negative terminal.
12.7 v = 100% charge
12.6 v = 75%
12.3 v = 50%
12.0 v = 25%
11.8 v = 0%
Watch the battery voltage when you start the bike, if a fully charged battery falls below 9.6 volts it’s time to replace it.
If a well charged battery runs down if the bike sits for a short time perform a current draw test. Set your meter to read 10 amps current. Pull your main fuse and insert the meter leads. Here’s a list of components and what current they will draw in milli amps, 1/1000 of an amp) from the 2015 manual:
LHCM 0.5
RHCM 0.5
Speedometer/ IM 0.5
Regulator 1.0
ABS 1.0
BCM 1.0
ECM 1.0
Security Siren 20.0
Radio 0.5
Amplifier 0.5
CB Module 0.5
If the Battery passes all tests check the charging system.
Charging System Testing:
Volt meter set to DCV 20V scale or higher.
With the bike in neutral and voltmeter attached to the battery, start the engine and rev to 3,000 rpm. If the voltage measures 13V – 14.7V the charging system is operating properly. If less than 13V test the Stator first. If Greater than 15.5V test the Voltage Regulator.
Stator testing
Turn the bike off and disconnect the Stator from the Voltage Regulator.
Testing a 3 phase Stator, (A single phase stator is tested in the same manner but the plug will only have 2 sockets).
The end of the connector from the stator has 3 sockets. Set your meter to ohms and connect one lead to the battery negative. With the other lead make contact with the conductors inside each socket. You are checking for a grounded coil winding, each socket should show an open circuit to ground, no continuity.
Now take both meter leads and check resistance between each of the three sockets, 1-2, 2-3 and 1-3. The resistance should be 0.1 – 0.3 ohm.
Next check the Stator’s AC output. Set the meter to ACV 100V scale. With the Stator unplugged from the VR and the bike in neutral, start the bike. Run the bike at 2,000 rpm and check the Stator output between sockets 1-2, 2-3 and 1-3. The voltage should read approximately 32-46 Volts AC, for the 50 amp Stator. Stators with other Amp ratings will be similar.
If the Stator continuity tests to ground and Phase to Phase are good but the output is not the Rotor may be bad.
One other indication that the stator may be bad is if your primary oil smells like a burnt circuit board.
Voltage Regulator Testing
Voltage readings of 15.5V and higher test wire from VR negative to battery negative, if less than 0.5 ohm replace Voltage Regulator.
If the output is less than 13V from the Voltage Regulator to the battery and the Stator output is good, disconnect the output cable from the VR to the Battery. Check continuity between the Voltage Regulator Positive wire and the battery Positive and the negative wire and battery negative. Repair or replace cable if needed. If the cables are good and the Stator tested well replace the Voltage Regulator.
Last edited by Vernal; May 13, 2019 at 12:11 PM.
