Charging System
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Stage III
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 3
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From: Murfreesboro, Tennessee
Charging System
I have a 1997 Sportster 1200. I am having problems with the battery charging while the bike is running. The battery is a new HD battery. Fully charged, I am getting 12.7 plus volts. I tested the stator per the service manual. I am getting 51 AC volts at 2000 rpm. I am getting a closed loop when testing ohms, when meter is inserted into both locations on connector coming from stator. And an open loop, when testing against ground. I installed an off brand regulator from Amazon and when first tested, the volts measured about 13 volts at 2000 rpm. But that only lasted for about a week. I then noticed the bike was hard to start one night after riding it home from work. I then tested again with meter and was getting like 11.5 volts at 2000 rpms. I went through the stator test again and got the same results as before. I purchased a high performance twin power regulator and installed it tonight and when idling at 2000 rpms and am still only getting about 13 volts. Shouldn't i be getting closer to 14 volts. Please advise. Thank you.
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Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Honah Lee
I think you are low on DC voltage. . Especially if battery is down and headlight is on. Should be 14 but not over 15DC.
Go back to your stator check. Your old Sporty is two phase two wire I think. No manuals out of the country. You ground check sounds good. Not an expert with the words but nothing going to ground even on the higher settings.
Turn your meter back to proper scale to check resistance across the two wires. Think you should show around 6 ohms. Not sure. We need someone to chime in here on setting probably 100 ohm setting and proper reading. My 3 phase is like 3 ohms +1,-0.
Interesting is your AC volts sounded good for a two phase.? I think? We need to know spec. That is probably in the stickies.
Go back to your stator check. Your old Sporty is two phase two wire I think. No manuals out of the country. You ground check sounds good. Not an expert with the words but nothing going to ground even on the higher settings.
Turn your meter back to proper scale to check resistance across the two wires. Think you should show around 6 ohms. Not sure. We need someone to chime in here on setting probably 100 ohm setting and proper reading. My 3 phase is like 3 ohms +1,-0.
Interesting is your AC volts sounded good for a two phase.? I think? We need to know spec. That is probably in the stickies.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Feb 12, 2020 at 09:32 PM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2008
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well my copy & paste function not working
i had this issue and it turned out to be the connection between the reg pigtail and the stator winding. there was enough marginal wires left to get a reading but too high a resistance to produce enough current. this also went on over a couple of months till i was able to capture it. had to install a need stator.
i had this issue and it turned out to be the connection between the reg pigtail and the stator winding. there was enough marginal wires left to get a reading but too high a resistance to produce enough current. this also went on over a couple of months till i was able to capture it. had to install a need stator.
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Joined: Jul 2009
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From: Straight Jacket Memories and Sedative Highs
I would have revved bike up and checked a.c.. You don't ride around 2000 rpm. I would want to know output at riding conditions. I'd rev way up and see it go to 80 or so. Guessing 20 ish per 1k rpm, but not sure on xl or year.
go to the source.
Edit
looks like you got it.
go to the source.
Edit
looks like you got it.
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Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Honah Lee
Modern manuals list AC and DC output at a test level of 2000 RPM. Some older stuff does lit it at 1000. Some give it per 1000 rpm. All over the place over the years. Like oil levels. Never have liked the measure on the stand ones. People do all kinds of modifications to height.
People in WV are just SOL....
.
People in WV are just SOL....
.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,183
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From: W. Texas
I'm chasing a problem and just happen to read this one.
Yours being a 97 ck this sticky out in the EVO section
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/evo-c...ng-system.html
WP
Yours being a 97 ck this sticky out in the EVO section
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/evo-c...ng-system.html
WP
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Stage III
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 3
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From: Murfreesboro, Tennessee
Charging System Update
Hey guys, Thanks for all of your input. The FSM instructs the test to be done at that rpm. So many people say that a proper functioning system should be putting out 14+ volts at idle across the battery terminals. I like your suggestions to test it at driving speeds, so I installed a digital volt meter connected to the battery tender pigtail. When I started on my ride, it was reading 13.1v. After about 15 miles, it had gone down to 12.6. Again, thanks for the input, I am new to working on bikes and electrical issues has a touch of voodoo to it for me.
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Seasoned HDF Member
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From: Honah Lee
When it comes to output of DC it is going to vary on state of battery. That is really why for most if it gives a spec at 2000 or 1000, it really is showing little at say 3000 or 4000.
To actually check regular takes a manufacturer type of equipment. But say your battery has been tested and showing 12.5 or so DC, then you just start bike and with lights on, that will draw it down so it probably it will show correct output at test RPM. Then, just like you saw, as you ride along above normal battery full charge of 12.7 or so, the regulator reads and knows to cut back charge.
It will always be reversing the flow back thru battery slightly charging it as long as lights and bike is running. To check battery after a maintenance charge, always flip lights off and on to geta proper reading.
To actually check regular takes a manufacturer type of equipment. But say your battery has been tested and showing 12.5 or so DC, then you just start bike and with lights on, that will draw it down so it probably it will show correct output at test RPM. Then, just like you saw, as you ride along above normal battery full charge of 12.7 or so, the regulator reads and knows to cut back charge.
It will always be reversing the flow back thru battery slightly charging it as long as lights and bike is running. To check battery after a maintenance charge, always flip lights off and on to geta proper reading.
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