HI everyone. New to forum, hope this is right place for this. . .I need some help. I purchased a 2012 street glide from guy in Lauderdale, FL few weeks ago. Have a an Electric gremlin goign on.

Guy before me has Alpine unit, (3) JL Amps (1 under crowl and 2 in side saddle bag). Also I was told the stator was upgraded to Hight output. It has 16" apes so wires have been changed. I noticed after market regulator by cycles was mounted in new location from stock mounts.
I put a new battery in it and changed oil as i always do when buying any new vehicle.

took it for a few 150 mile rides - it started and ran like it should at every stop along the way. Then on 14th out of 15 tries at a fill up - it blew the little 15amp starter fuse under the side panel. I replaced it on spot at the gas station and went on.
on the next 14-15th start= it blew the same fuse again. This time i replaced it with a 20amp. got about 10 more starts and it blew again. currently have 25 amp in there.

I open the hood crowl and looked at all the wires and head unit that were shrinked and neatly tucked and protected as they should. nothing seemed janky.
I then test this (new) battery which was perfect. 12.8 and dropped little when started. i tested stator w/ all good stats. I then test the volt regulator and it seemed little off . .so I replaced it with a new one.

rode the bike 1x to the gas station and it would not start again after filling up. ..... BUT I check the fuse and it is not blown, I check the switch it gets power at injector on bars, i looked at main 40 amp fuse this time and it was fine also.
MY BIKE WILL NOT START with the handlebar button but i did jump the starter with a piece of free-wire in my bag to starter and it instantly worked. rode home fine.

1)Why do i have power at bar switch (injector button works but starter does not) -when all fuses are plugged-in and good. ..... even with radio off or even unplugged?

2) why would the fuses keep blowing to start with??? ( new battery, new regulator and good stator?) -is there another component i am missing in the HD charging system>?

3) I read something about open, hidden grounding posts on street glide - anyone know where this is?? ( i may trying moving all stereo amps grounds over to it and get it off the battery to see if it changes anything)

4) i currently cannot start my bike with all components in good working order - any ideas (other than cheater jumping it)?

5) let me know if you need any addition info. i may have left of some important detail.

I am beyond frustrated with this thing trying to leave me stranded. Any help from Electrical guys would be appreciated. I am a little handy and have some tools for bikes.
THANK YOU!!

 

First off welcome to the Forum from Utah.

Never replace a fuse with one of higher amperage .

There isn’t a starter fuse so look at the cover on the fuse box and see which fuse blows, Ignition?

I’m guessing the injector button is the Off/Run button?

Have you looked at the start button ?

 

HI Vernal- I have never been to Utah. Hope you have some nice riding roads out there. Also you assumed correct and thank you for the diagrams . . .. my panel did not have list of fuses. So i just started pulling them 1 by 1 to see if that was the problem so i could get home. I upped the fuse as i did not have any other and luckly got home each time.

SO the fuse i found that kept blowing was #16 on your chart (which looks like my fuse panel)

which states ignition - I have never had issues with lights. front or back. I ride with group and no one has ever mention the light flickering or anything like that.
this bike does have LED upgrade, turn signals, marker lights and taillights.

 

The ECM fuse does not power the lights. The Lights fuse and Headlamp fuse have blue wires and get power from the lighting relay. The ECM is Blue/Gray and powers the ECM and Normally Open system relay contact. When the relay contact closes it powers the fuel pump, injectors, acrs, coils O2 sensors….

When your fuse blows do you still hear the fuel pump run for a couple seconds when you turn ignition on and off/run to run?

 

after closer look i do have some difference in my fuse panel.

interestingly enough :
1) On panel 14 (the lower one) I have slot a 15amp fuse & slot . . .just above the brake relay #18 which is not on this diagram??
2) On panel 1 (the upper one) - I do not have a #9 slot. there is no where to put a fuse.

hmmm- makes me think - Did previous owner maybe switch the fuse panel for a reason - and got the wrong one??? that would be strange.

 

I think i will switch the start relay #12 and brake relay#18 and see if they make any difference. I believe they are the same - have the same numbers on them.

unless there is an easy test for start rely to see if it good???.

 

DO you guys on the forum with aftermarket stereos typically see amp wires (multiple amps) grounded to the battery terminal??

 

yes..I have 3 amps and had the wires going straight to the battery with no issues. I recently cleaned them up using a distribution block.

 

Hithere - which distribution block did you go with>? Is it working well?

 

just a distribution block off Amazon. 4ga in 8ga out.
I'm running 2 of them. no issues in 2 years.