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Really appreciate all of the input guys. A couple of other adds based on your questions:
Fuses were all good
I questioned the battery as well, so tried two different ones (in the correct orientation) and checked them independently on a tester
The security module antenna seemed ok on inspection.
No mice or varmints in this spot to chew on stuff.
The fact that it worked parked and now wouldn't work later is the stumper. Especially with the battery voltages seeming to be fine. Seems weird to lose that FOB to bike handshake. The original battery in the FOB actually tested fine. Does it have to go to the dealer to re-establish the FOB connection to the bike?
That was a great suggestion on testing the RF output on the FOB. I may do that before the dealer.
Really appreciate all of the input guys. A couple of other adds based on your questions:
Fuses were all good
I questioned the battery as well, so tried two different ones (in the correct orientation) and checked them independently on a tester
The security module antenna seemed ok on inspection.
No mice or varmints in this spot to chew on stuff.
The fact that it worked parked and now wouldn't work later is the stumper. Especially with the battery voltages seeming to be fine. Seems weird to lose that FOB to bike handshake. The original battery in the FOB actually tested fine. Does it have to go to the dealer to re-establish the FOB connection to the bike?
That was a great suggestion on testing the RF output on the FOB. I may do that before the dealer.
Thanks again guys!
Have you looked in the owners manual. Old button FOBs had it there. Sure it's in a service manual one would think.
I just had the same problem with my friends bike. I pulled the battery out of the FOB and it had over 3 volts. Turns out the FOB battery was slightly undersize and wasn't making good contact. It was the same battery number but was just undersize. Cheap battery. May not be your problem if you use a name brand battery.
I don't know what brand batteries you're using ,but I will not use Eveready batteries in any of the multiple key fobs we have. Took Duracells out of the fob for my car,which was working ,replaced with an Eveready. Wouldn't work. Tried another Eveready,NG. Put a new Duracell on the fob,works. Don't understand why, but I use Duracell only now. Try a different brand battery,hope this helps.
The fob transmits at 315 MHz. The number of sources that can cause RF interference at that wavelength/frequency are countless. The most common sources are inexpensive unshielded LED light fixtures, WiFi routers, and cordless phones to name a few. Oftentimes the source of interference may originate from devices recently installed/activated by nearby neighbors which makes identifying the source difficult. To eliminate nearby RF interference sources, start your bike with the PIN, take a ride to an isolated area free from possible IR interference. Without shutting the engine off, use the lock/unlock buttons on your fob to confirm connectivity.
Hey guys, I wanted to get back in here and close this thread. I really appreciated everyone's input and help on this. I managed to get the flu that's going around and it put me down for quite a while. I disconnected the bike battery and removed the key fob battery as well and left them both out for a few days. When I reconnected everything it worked again, as normal. I'm suspecting a potential issue in my BCM, but we'll see. So far, so good. Hope you're all surviving winter. Thank you all again!
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