Both 2011 RC passing lights fail?
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 331
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From: Hudson Valley, NY
Both 2011 RC passing lights fail?
My 2011 Road King Classic has 8,000 miles. I noticed that both passing lamps are not working. I ride with them on all the time Is it possible the bulbs burned out at the same time or should they have lasted longer?
I purchased two new bulbs #881 (I did not put any dielectric grease on the socket maybe it MUST be used?), just installed one and lamp is still out. I did not install the other one. I swaped out the aux. fuse and yes the right aux. switch is on and using low beams. Perhaps the aux. toggle switch is burned out? Wires look like they are in place.
Any ideas? Can I try swaping out the left toggle switch and try it on the right side? Do both bulbs need to be repaced to get them to work?
I hate the thought of going to the dealer to troubleshoot and paying big $.
I purchased two new bulbs #881 (I did not put any dielectric grease on the socket maybe it MUST be used?), just installed one and lamp is still out. I did not install the other one. I swaped out the aux. fuse and yes the right aux. switch is on and using low beams. Perhaps the aux. toggle switch is burned out? Wires look like they are in place.
Any ideas? Can I try swaping out the left toggle switch and try it on the right side? Do both bulbs need to be repaced to get them to work?
I hate the thought of going to the dealer to troubleshoot and paying big $.
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 331
Likes: 0
From: Hudson Valley, NY
Good idea. I think you mean the one that is like a screwdriver and lights up when it detects voltage? I'll be going out to purchase one. BTW I just removed the aux. toggle switch. I was tinkling maybe it was bad. But, the switch is soldered to the wires. I thought an easy fix might be to use the left switch that I'm not using. I don't want to mess around with soldering. I also purchase another bulb. Maybe a little chance the one I had was bad out of the package. Will try tomorrow. Thanks for the advice!
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 3,351
Likes: 1,936
From: Formerly Tampa Bay, FL, Currently Western PA
My guess is that the connector came off in the nacelle. Its not difficult to open that up and take a look. Spend $25 on a multimeter, its one of the best tools.
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 331
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From: Hudson Valley, NY
Thanks. Do you know what looking at connectors in the nacelle involves? Is it simply prying off the chrome in the center of the handlebars or does it mean to open up the headlamp?
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Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 14,670
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From: East of the Sun, West of the Moon
1.) Connect the alligator clip of your test light to ground somewhere at the nacelle.
2.) pull the screw out of the bottom of the headlamp trim ring, snap it off and set it aside.
3.) There are 7 phillips head screws that hold the headlamp in place. (DO NOT remove or adjust the headlamp aiming screws they are different and very noticeable).
4.) Unplug and remove headlamp and set it aside as it doesn't need to be on the bike to test the passing lamp circuit.
5.) there should be a plug (white plug with 4 wires on it) inside the nacelle on the left (looking at front of bike) plugged into a socket in the nacelle housing. This is where you want to check 1) that its plugged in tightly and 2) test your switch functionality with your test light for voltage.
6.) There is also a white plug with 2 wires on it that should be located in the bottom of the nacelle housing, this is your passing lamps. Check that this plug is connected also and if so then test for power on both of those wires while toggling your switch. Your passing lamps are connected to ground inside the passing lamp housings.
and +1 on what cbrenthus said. Get a digital meter, they're worth every penny but a test light is also indispensable on these bikes for testing things like battery, lights, etc. NEVER use a test light for testing any ECM functions. Any kind of sensors or ECM testing should be done with a digital meter to avoid damaging the ECM.
2.) pull the screw out of the bottom of the headlamp trim ring, snap it off and set it aside.
3.) There are 7 phillips head screws that hold the headlamp in place. (DO NOT remove or adjust the headlamp aiming screws they are different and very noticeable).
4.) Unplug and remove headlamp and set it aside as it doesn't need to be on the bike to test the passing lamp circuit.
5.) there should be a plug (white plug with 4 wires on it) inside the nacelle on the left (looking at front of bike) plugged into a socket in the nacelle housing. This is where you want to check 1) that its plugged in tightly and 2) test your switch functionality with your test light for voltage.
6.) There is also a white plug with 2 wires on it that should be located in the bottom of the nacelle housing, this is your passing lamps. Check that this plug is connected also and if so then test for power on both of those wires while toggling your switch. Your passing lamps are connected to ground inside the passing lamp housings.
and +1 on what cbrenthus said. Get a digital meter, they're worth every penny but a test light is also indispensable on these bikes for testing things like battery, lights, etc. NEVER use a test light for testing any ECM functions. Any kind of sensors or ECM testing should be done with a digital meter to avoid damaging the ECM.
Last edited by UltraNutZ; Oct 8, 2012 at 06:56 PM.
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Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 331
Likes: 0
From: Hudson Valley, NY
I really thank you both for helping me. I know these detailed descriptions take a long time to prepare. Your help just may save me a costly dealer trip! I'll be busy tomorrow and I'll let you know how I make out. My deepest thank you. It really means a lot to me.
