motorcycle jump start connection
Thread Starter
|
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 6,086
Likes: 1,128
From:
motorcycle jump start connection
When i have needed to assist someone to jump start their bike (Harley) i rarely take the seat off either bike.
I just attach the positive cable to the positive post on the starter on each bike.
The negative cable to solid clean(not painted) metal on the bike (peg bolt/engine guard bolt).
I have done it this way for numerous years.
A couple of months ago i rescued a couple on a bike that was stuck on a very busy road way.
I had to give them a jump start from my bike every few miles in order to get them to safety.
For the first time i used a set of home made jumper cables that i had constructed from left over 10 or 12 gauge heavy stranded copper wire (trailer battery wire) and some standard small 50 amp battery charger clamps (like on a trolling motor).
The whole set-up is the size of two cigarette packs & could be made smaller but i wanted 6 feet of cable.
When using those cables, I attached them and waited a minute or two in order to give the distressed battery a small float charge.
Then they hit the starter button.
The wires got slightly warm to the touch after a few starts but never hot.
The small clamps make it easier to work around the pipes.
Reason for thread:
Sometimes removing a seat is a problem due to location(side of road) or maybe the bike is loaded/packed and access at that moment is difficult.
The clamps were about $8 and are available at walmart or basspro shops and the wire was free since it was a leftover although i did also use some heat shrink tubing near the clamps that was purchased recently.
I did find a small half size zippered pencil case at the hardware store that works perfect and again the whole deal is the size of two cigarette packs laid side by side flat.
I had been looking for several years for a set that would consume the smallest space possible but every set-up i have seen is much larger due to the insulation on the wires.
This is half the size of anything i have seen.
Unfortunately it is not fool proof and i would only recommend this to those with a little bit of knowledge,understanding and patience. The insulation is much thinner, user must be careful with pipes and keep on eye on what they are doing. This is NOT for the novice person.
I got the idea after reading about a guy who started his bike with some self described "red neck" motorcycle jumper cables.
He was in front of some store and bought a lamp extension cord .
He cut the ends off the cord and held them to the contacts on bike #1 while his friend did the same on bike #2 in order to start the bike.
I just attach the positive cable to the positive post on the starter on each bike.
The negative cable to solid clean(not painted) metal on the bike (peg bolt/engine guard bolt).
I have done it this way for numerous years.
A couple of months ago i rescued a couple on a bike that was stuck on a very busy road way.
I had to give them a jump start from my bike every few miles in order to get them to safety.
For the first time i used a set of home made jumper cables that i had constructed from left over 10 or 12 gauge heavy stranded copper wire (trailer battery wire) and some standard small 50 amp battery charger clamps (like on a trolling motor).
The whole set-up is the size of two cigarette packs & could be made smaller but i wanted 6 feet of cable.
When using those cables, I attached them and waited a minute or two in order to give the distressed battery a small float charge.
Then they hit the starter button.
The wires got slightly warm to the touch after a few starts but never hot.
The small clamps make it easier to work around the pipes.
Reason for thread:
Sometimes removing a seat is a problem due to location(side of road) or maybe the bike is loaded/packed and access at that moment is difficult.
The clamps were about $8 and are available at walmart or basspro shops and the wire was free since it was a leftover although i did also use some heat shrink tubing near the clamps that was purchased recently.
I did find a small half size zippered pencil case at the hardware store that works perfect and again the whole deal is the size of two cigarette packs laid side by side flat.
I had been looking for several years for a set that would consume the smallest space possible but every set-up i have seen is much larger due to the insulation on the wires.
This is half the size of anything i have seen.
Unfortunately it is not fool proof and i would only recommend this to those with a little bit of knowledge,understanding and patience. The insulation is much thinner, user must be careful with pipes and keep on eye on what they are doing. This is NOT for the novice person.
I got the idea after reading about a guy who started his bike with some self described "red neck" motorcycle jumper cables.
He was in front of some store and bought a lamp extension cord .
He cut the ends off the cord and held them to the contacts on bike #1 while his friend did the same on bike #2 in order to start the bike.
Last edited by im; Nov 6, 2013 at 09:13 AM.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 14,670
Likes: 139
From: East of the Sun, West of the Moon
When i have needed to assist someone to jump start their bike (Harley) i rarely take the seat off either bike.
I just attach the positive cable to the positive post on the starter on each bike.
The negative cable to solid clean(not painted) metal on the bike (peg bolt/engine guard bolt).
I have done it this way for numerous years.
A couple of months ago i rescued a couple on a bike that was stuck on a very busy road way.
I had to give them a jump start from my bike every few miles in order to get them to safety.
For the first time i used a set of home made jumper cables that i had constructed from left over 10 or 12 gauge heavy stranded copper wire (trailer battery wire) and some standard small 50 amp battery charger clamps (like on a trolling motor).
The whole set-up is the size of two cigarette packs & could be made smaller but i wanted 6 feet of cable.
When using those cables, I attached them and waited a minute or two in order to give the distressed battery a small float charge.
Then they hit the starter button.
The wires got slightly warm to the touch after a few starts but never hot.
The small clamps make it easier to work around the pipes.
Reason for thread:
Sometimes removing a seat is a problem due to location(side of road) or maybe the bike is loaded/packed and access at that moment is difficult.
The clamps were about $8 and are available at walmart or basspro shops and the wire was free since it was a leftover although i did also use some heat shrink tubing near the clamps that was purchased recently.
I did find a small half size zippered pencil case at the hardware store that works perfect and again the whole deal is the size of two cigarette packs laid side by side flat.
I had been looking for several years for a set that would consume the smallest space possible but every set-up i have seen is much larger due to the insulation on the wires.
This is half the size of anything i have seen.
Unfortunately it is not fool proof and i would only recommend this to those with a little bit of knowledge,understanding and patience. The insulation is much thinner, user must be careful with pipes and keep on eye on what they are doing. This is NOT for the novice person.
I just attach the positive cable to the positive post on the starter on each bike.
The negative cable to solid clean(not painted) metal on the bike (peg bolt/engine guard bolt).
I have done it this way for numerous years.
A couple of months ago i rescued a couple on a bike that was stuck on a very busy road way.
I had to give them a jump start from my bike every few miles in order to get them to safety.
For the first time i used a set of home made jumper cables that i had constructed from left over 10 or 12 gauge heavy stranded copper wire (trailer battery wire) and some standard small 50 amp battery charger clamps (like on a trolling motor).
The whole set-up is the size of two cigarette packs & could be made smaller but i wanted 6 feet of cable.
When using those cables, I attached them and waited a minute or two in order to give the distressed battery a small float charge.
Then they hit the starter button.
The wires got slightly warm to the touch after a few starts but never hot.
The small clamps make it easier to work around the pipes.
Reason for thread:
Sometimes removing a seat is a problem due to location(side of road) or maybe the bike is loaded/packed and access at that moment is difficult.
The clamps were about $8 and are available at walmart or basspro shops and the wire was free since it was a leftover although i did also use some heat shrink tubing near the clamps that was purchased recently.
I did find a small half size zippered pencil case at the hardware store that works perfect and again the whole deal is the size of two cigarette packs laid side by side flat.
I had been looking for several years for a set that would consume the smallest space possible but every set-up i have seen is much larger due to the insulation on the wires.
This is half the size of anything i have seen.
Unfortunately it is not fool proof and i would only recommend this to those with a little bit of knowledge,understanding and patience. The insulation is much thinner, user must be careful with pipes and keep on eye on what they are doing. This is NOT for the novice person.
excellent post sir! thank you..
I got the idea after reading about a guy who started his bike with some self described "red neck" motorcycle jumper cables.
He was in front of some store and bought a lamp extension cord .
He cut the ends off the cord and held them to the contacts on bike #1 while his friend did the same on bike #2 in order to start the bike.
He was in front of some store and bought a lamp extension cord .
He cut the ends off the cord and held them to the contacts on bike #1 while his friend did the same on bike #2 in order to start the bike.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
