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Won't start after big bore install

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Old Mar 13, 2015 | 04:54 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by Jameson
I was getting no compression in the front cylinder. I tried the paper towel method and got nothing. Loosens the pushrods up till the were wiggling around and tried the paper towel method again. Boom, compression. Readjusted the pushrods and lost it again.
With the lifters adjusted.
When the valves are closed, cam off the lobe, can you spin the push rods with your fingers?
 
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Old Mar 13, 2015 | 06:32 PM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by dynawg1
Better to buy a new one for about $35 from an auto parts store. The things tend to go bad after a while and don't give accurate readings. At least make sure that the one you rent/buy has the correct size/thread fitting for your spark plug holes.
when you but quality tools like snapon tools there is no problems with the accuracy.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2015 | 07:42 PM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by Jameson
I was getting no compression in the front cylinder. I tried the paper towel method and got nothing. Loosens the pushrods up till the were wiggling around and tried the paper towel method again. Boom, compression. Readjusted the pushrods and lost it again.
When you re-adjust the pushrods, you are opening the valves; no compression. I don't know your adjusting procedure so don't know if you are letting the lifters bleed down or exactly what is going on but, if you are not careful, you can bend a valve.

Suggest you get back to a known baseline and install the OEM pushrods in the right places; intake=silver/shorter, exhaust=black/longer. The motor will not run with an exhaust pushrod on the intake side which may have been your problem before. Install the OEM pushrods back in the proper locations and, if cam timing, etc. is correct and battery is strong, she will start; valve train will rattle but she will start. If the motor doesn't start, there is something else going on, cam timing probably, or you have already bent a valve. We will have to figure that out then.

However, if she starts, you can then replace the OEM pushrods with the adjustables. Pick a cylinder, remove the plugs and rotate the motor until the piston on that cylinder is at or near TDC ON THE COMPRESSION stroke; remove the OEM pushrods and install the adjustable; set them at 3 to 3.5 turns.

Now rotate the motor until the other piston as at or near TDC ON THE COMPRESSION stroke; remove the OEM pushrods and install and adjust the adjustables. Replace plugs and the motor should start and run. JMHO.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2015 | 08:19 PM
  #64  
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unfortunately,it only takes once of not letting the p/rods bleed down to bend the valves.take the p/rods out and verify compession,dont really even need a gauge at this point.the thumb over the spark plug hole test will do this.if there is compression,either the p/rods are adjusted incorrectly or the cam timing is off.i installed the cams on the plate (the outer spockets could still be off,are they off,who knows without checking (if they are off on the actual install in the plate,its a first,but like everyone,im not perfect and not going to say ive never made a mistake).but I think you've got to pop the cover off & make sure
 
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Old Mar 13, 2015 | 08:52 PM
  #65  
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OK Jameson said

Originally Posted by Jameson
I was getting no compression in the front cylinder. I tried the paper towel method and got nothing. Loosens the pushrods up till the were wiggling around and tried the paper towel method again. Boom, compression. Readjusted the pushrods and lost it again.
Could it be a bad lifter not bleading down holding a valve open?


.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2015 | 09:18 PM
  #66  
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that's why I tell riders don't do **** until you can spin te p/rod,i don't care if it sat all night,if you cant spin the p/rod,DONT continue
 
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Old Mar 14, 2015 | 08:13 AM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by prodrag1320
unfortunately,it only takes once of not letting the p/rods bleed down to bend the valves.take the p/rods out and verify compession,dont really even need a gauge at this point.the thumb over the spark plug hole test will do this.if there is compression,either the p/rods are adjusted incorrectly or the cam timing is off.i installed the cams on the plate (the outer spockets could still be off,are they off,who knows without checking (if they are off on the actual install in the plate,its a first,but like everyone,im not perfect and not going to say ive never made a mistake).but I think you've got to pop the cover off & make sure
I'm to the point of snapping a pic of the cams/chest with my phone before I button them up. That way if something goes south I can assure myself that everything inside was good...
 
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Old Mar 15, 2015 | 07:08 PM
  #68  
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http://s168.photobucket.com/user/big...0E1FB.mp4.html
 

Last edited by Jameson; Mar 15, 2015 at 07:11 PM.
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Old Mar 15, 2015 | 07:35 PM
  #69  
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Sounds good. Is that the big bore install?
 
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Old Mar 15, 2015 | 07:38 PM
  #70  
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Sooooo,,,,, what was the fix?
 
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