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Won't start after big bore install

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Old Mar 11, 2015 | 06:48 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Teardrop
I did a cam swap and reused the stock pushrods and mixed the exhaust and intake up and had the exact same symptoms as the op.

mixing the int & ex`s would be a prob,but just using stock p/rods with .570 S&S cams isn't correct,but wouldn't stop it from starting
 
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Old Mar 11, 2015 | 08:01 PM
  #42  
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Sorry I'm in the field this week guys. I do appreciate the help. I honestly think mixed up the exhaust and intake pushrods. I literally had no idea there was a difference. I bought a set of adjustables and will be installing them Friday. I see the difference between the exhaust and intake on these adjustable lol. Yet another lesson learned. Cherry
 
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Old Mar 11, 2015 | 08:57 PM
  #43  
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runs OK now?
 
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Old Mar 12, 2015 | 08:16 AM
  #44  
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I'm going to install the new pushrods tomorrow when I get back. I'll keep you updated.
On screaming eagle adjustables is 2.5 turns past zero lash good or is there a better amount?
 
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Old Mar 12, 2015 | 08:39 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by Jameson
I'm going to install the new pushrods tomorrow when I get back. I'll keep you updated.
On screaming eagle adjustables is 2.5 turns past zero lash good or is there a better amount?
Others might throw things at me for this, but on the SE adjustables I've had better luck with 3 or even 3.25 turns out for cams/heads I've used. Not saying that you should duplicate ANYTHING that I do as a garage hack though...others on the forum do this stuff for a living, so keep an eye out for what they say.
 
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Old Mar 12, 2015 | 08:45 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by hobobiker
Others might throw things at me for this, but on the SE adjustables I've had better luck with 3 or even 3.25 turns out for cams/heads I've used. Not saying that you should duplicate ANYTHING that I do as a garage hack though...others on the forum do this stuff for a living, so keep an eye out for what they say.
Same here. Started at 2.5 with the SE tapered but ended up closer to 3.5 before it quieted down. Upper end sounds like a sewing machine now!
 
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Old Mar 12, 2015 | 10:57 AM
  #47  
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I have the FuelMoto adjustable pushrods and they say 4 turns and 2 flats. I'm hoping to finish the install this weekend and get some heat cycles in. The weather here is awesome!
 
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Old Mar 12, 2015 | 11:38 AM
  #48  
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The damn pushrod tubes are a pain in the *** trying to get the retainer clip in.
 
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Old Mar 12, 2015 | 03:01 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by Jameson
The damn pushrod tubes are a pain in the *** trying to get the retainer clip in.
The more you do it, the easier it gets. Not sure how you're doing it, but a much better method than prying a screwdriver blade against a cooling fin is to use a medium-sized flat screwdriver and use it as a "ramp" from the front to let the clip slide down into place as the screwdriver pushes up on the retainer clip and down on the spring-loaded lower piece. Much easier to do than explain, but there are YouTube vids on this if you haven't tried this method.

I only bring this up because a lot of my "Shovel" brethren continue to break off cast cooling fins on their bikes because they pry against them with screwdrivers. :-)

Hobo
 
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Old Mar 12, 2015 | 03:18 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by Jameson
The damn pushrod tubes are a pain in the *** trying to get the retainer clip in.
I agree, I even called FuelMoto about that and they said to just use a screw driver and place it in the cooling fins and use it to push down that spring load part. I did that on two of them, I still have to get the other two on this weekend.
 
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