HELP please fellas
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Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2015
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From: everywhere
Ok. So I attached a wire brush to my drill and made sure everything was nice and clean. Installed a new starter relay and cleaned up with some contact cleaner. My battery is current reading 12.50. A little confused by what you mean when you say to crank it over when the switch is in the off position. Tried that and no voltage changed at the battery. Flipped the switch to run and turned the engine over a couple times, voltage dropped to somewhere around 9v.
Club Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 15,435
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From: Beyond Fucital
If I carried spare I wouldn't care.
Your advising him to replace parts he's not sure are bad. You must be an auto mechanic
who works on other peoples cars, spending their money on parts they don't need.
I advised him to find the problem BEFORE throwing parts at it.
Your advising him to replace parts he's not sure are bad. You must be an auto mechanic
who works on other peoples cars, spending their money on parts they don't need.
I advised him to find the problem BEFORE throwing parts at it.
Last edited by RANGER73; Mar 8, 2015 at 08:10 PM.
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Joined: Apr 2012
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From: North Florida
These problems can be maddening. First pic is the starter relay. They go bad and are cheap to replace. Replace it and buy a spare while you are at it.
Second pic is the diagnostic port to read codes/reprogram the ignition. Pull the end cap off and clean the connections inside with electrical contact cleaner and replace the plug. Check the wiring to make sure that there are no tears in the insulation that could contact a ground. Probably not your problem, but check it anyway.
Next, check the battery to make sure it is at min 12.7V. Flip the run switch next to the throttle to the "off" position and crank it over a few times. See what the battery reads then. If the voltage reading drops a below 12V after a little cranking, it is likely the battery is weak and should be replaced. Recommend a Yuasa battery with 310 or more cold cranking amps. Don't forget to flip the run switch back to "run" before you try to start the engine or it won't.
Good luck.
Second pic is the diagnostic port to read codes/reprogram the ignition. Pull the end cap off and clean the connections inside with electrical contact cleaner and replace the plug. Check the wiring to make sure that there are no tears in the insulation that could contact a ground. Probably not your problem, but check it anyway.
Next, check the battery to make sure it is at min 12.7V. Flip the run switch next to the throttle to the "off" position and crank it over a few times. See what the battery reads then. If the voltage reading drops a below 12V after a little cranking, it is likely the battery is weak and should be replaced. Recommend a Yuasa battery with 310 or more cold cranking amps. Don't forget to flip the run switch back to "run" before you try to start the engine or it won't.
Good luck.
I would clean the relay socket and dielectric grease, as well as all the fuses socket and connectors.
One note about your post, bike won't crank with the run switch off.
Tourer
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 420
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From: Kingsport, TN
The problem with the Dynas & softails is that the battery compartment is too small for the proper size battery (like the bigger ones in baggers), so buying the very best battery that will fit is crucial as is getting the entire starting system performing optimally.
I had constant and persistent problems with starting after I built a high-compression engine with a set of big cams. Spent a small fortune on monster starters, but still had issues until I figured out the steps that I recommended to the OP. So glad that the days of starter issues are behind me. Hope that they are for him soon too.
Last edited by dynawg1; Mar 8, 2015 at 11:03 PM.
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Joined: Apr 2012
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From: North Florida
Sorry about that. I converted my starter to a manual-push plunger directly on the end of the solenoid many years ago, bypassing the handlebar-mounted start button, the relay, and the switch wiring. I can crank mine with the "run" button on "off", just doesn't fire the plugs.
The problem with the Dynas & softails is that the battery compartment is too small for the proper size battery (like the bigger ones in baggers), so buying the very best battery that will fit is crucial as is getting the entire starting system performing optimally.
I had constant and persistent problems with starting after I built a high-compression engine with a set of big cams. Spent a small fortune on monster starters, but still had issues until I figured out the steps that I recommended to the OP. So glad that the days of starter issues are behind me. Hope that they are for him soon too.
The problem with the Dynas & softails is that the battery compartment is too small for the proper size battery (like the bigger ones in baggers), so buying the very best battery that will fit is crucial as is getting the entire starting system performing optimally.
I had constant and persistent problems with starting after I built a high-compression engine with a set of big cams. Spent a small fortune on monster starters, but still had issues until I figured out the steps that I recommended to the OP. So glad that the days of starter issues are behind me. Hope that they are for him soon too.
Yea to the battery problems, older bikes need regular mantainince on cleaning contacts, dielectric.
These are not gold plated contacts.
The softail are extremely hard on battery's dew to being placed inside the oil tank, fries a battery pretty quick.
And nothing fries a starter better than repeatitly cranking it with a dying battery.
Everyone who does their own mantainince should know this information.
Last edited by Harleycruiser; Mar 9, 2015 at 05:21 AM.
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Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2015
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From: everywhere
So we can confirm that this was my problem? will get a new battery ASAP. One thing, even though it fired up an hour later when I was stranded, how did it get some more juice after not starting for a awhile?
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Joined: Sep 2010
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From: Beyond Fucital
Connections or starter could be in question too. Do you know anyone with a Digital malty meter that reads DC amps?
