Update :
I just put in a set of s&s premium lifters with the h2lt spacers. I must have James pushrods 24tpi. I set them at 3 rounds (18 flats) after no up and down movement then backed them off till I could turn the pushrods by hand after bleed down. Then I shorten the pushrods 5 more flats like the s&s instructions suggest. I don't know what keeps the pushrods from falling out. It knocks like a gatteling gun now. I thought I could read the s&s instructions. What am I missing?

 

I tried the H2LT lifers and adjusted them like they way the instructions said and the first time I hit 6k under load a piston must have smacked a valve. My motor got so noisy, collapsed the rear intake lifter. Scared the crap out of me. ( I am however running close tolerances on my motor and I'm sure that was a contributing factor) So I took them out called S&S and they sent me a new set, no questions asked, I also replaced the pushrods, my rear intake was a little bent. I ended up sending my heads back out to get checked, no bent valves there. I don't recommend using them. You can take the lifters apart and remove the spacer and put them back in. When reassembling the lifter just use a lite coating of marvel mystery oil this way you wont have to bleed them down to make the proper adjustment and adjust them to .140" preload and you should be good. 3.5 turns on 24 tpi.

 

Good advice. Travel limited lifters are not worth the trouble and not needed for the OPs application. The OP should also know that roller rockers are noisier than not roller rockers and are not needed with the 585 cams. Some of the noise would go away with stock rockers.

 

I taken out the spacers in the lifters yesterday. It still taps at idle not quite as bad as it was with the fueling lifters.It is much better I must add. I broke down and took it to a bike shop. He recommends the Fueling cam plate and oil pump, because my bike only has 10 psi at idle. I will do the up grade not till after sturgis it looks like

 

What did you set the lifter preload to?

 

Maybe a little more preload on the lifters will quiet things down a bit more; .140" as Scott recommended. However, with roller rockers, the top end will always make some noise.

You don't need the Fueling cam plate and lifters; 10-12psi at idle is normal. Furthermore, if you did replace the cam plate, there are less expensive alternatives.

 

As I said earlier I have Jims pushrods I set them at 3.5 turns 21 flats. That should put the preload at .146. I am begining to think that 10 psi at warm idle is to low and my pump is worn. I always used synthetic in the bike this time I tried lucas oil treatment thinking that it would raise the vicosity enough that the noise would go away. The bike was fine the first 30000 miles. I also wonder if the crank shifted when I ran the dragon last year. I had no noise until then. I may change to dino 50 wt next oil change maybe it will raise my idle oil pressure enough that the lifter will stop tapping.

 

You do not NEED more than 10-12psi oil pressure at idle. The HD lubrication system works on volume, not pressure. The '99-'06 models with the OEM cam plate and pump were working well at 5-8psi and I have seen some with high mileage at 3psi. Changing to a good straight 50W might quiet things down a but doubt that you will see an increase in pressure.

Did you adjust pushrods with pistons at TDC on the compression stroke? If not, readjust.

Easy to check crank run out but I doubt that is your problem. Put the OEM rockers back in and I am betting it will quiet down. Sell the rollers on Ebay and spend the money on beer.

 

10-12 psi at idle for a stock oiling system is awesome. Lack of oil is not your problem..

 

I would keep the rollers right where they are. They do good things to reduce stress and wear on the valve train. Maybe check the rocker lash...

Don't notice any added noise from my Crane rollers, but maybe it's just me.