Engine Mechanical Topics Discussion for motor builds, cams, head work, stripped bolts and other engine related issues. The good and the bad. If it goes round and around or up and down, post it here.

Leave the heads alone? Or no?

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Old Feb 16, 2016 | 03:54 PM
  #31  
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I'm running the stock oil pump on mine, MVA heads, 10.5 pistons, Tman 625 cams, 58 tb etc etc, and it's been no issues. My summer temps are about 43*c, or about 109*F, and peachy keen.

Think a proper oil cooler should be a bigger want/need than pump (not sure if the new bike comes with it stock, I'm reasonably certain it does.)

Year 4 on my build coming up, 23,000 on it to date..

But yes, if you can swing the cost on headwork, by all means do it. It's the final piece of the puzzle, and well worth it!
 

Last edited by FXDFan; Feb 16, 2016 at 03:55 PM. Reason: Add comment
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Old Feb 16, 2016 | 04:53 PM
  #32  
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Default Oil cooler, huh?

Originally Posted by FXDFan
I'm running the stock oil pump on mine, MVA heads, 10.5 pistons, Tman 625 cams, 58 tb etc etc, and it's been no issues. My summer temps are about 43*c, or about 109*F, and peachy keen.

Think a proper oil cooler should be a bigger want/need than pump (not sure if the new bike comes with it stock, I'm reasonably certain it does.)

Year 4 on my build coming up, 23,000 on it to date..

But yes, if you can swing the cost on headwork, by all means do it. It's the final piece of the puzzle, and well worth it!
I don't think it comes with a cooler. And I have had some cooling issues. We ride pretty hard. Went down to Galveston last summer and got stuck in traffic. Riding two up, with saddle bags stuffed full (7 day trip), 6 hours of 75mph cruising, and she started acting up. Lots of decel pop, sluggish accel, so on...

Have had the bike less than a year and have over 12,000 miles on her. I want to ride even more. I will look into upgrading here. But you bring up a really good point. Maybe a cooler would be better. More research, and I need to talk to my tech again!

Thx!
 
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Old Feb 16, 2016 | 10:13 PM
  #33  
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Oil cooler is a good idea. However, after getting that 117"er stuck in traffic for more than about 15-20 minutes the convection cooling affect is not going to keep the oil cool and she is going to heat up fast and it will take 30 minutes of 70mph cruising to cool her down again. In that situation, fans are the solution. Check out Wards fans; they work, ask anyone running them. I live and ride in south Texas; very familiar with the summer heat.

http://www.wardspartswerks.com/cooling-fans.html
 
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Old Feb 17, 2016 | 12:05 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Beanznrice
You really think this is a mild build? Am I really wasting my money on the oil pump? Texas summers are hot so the pump makes sense to me. Do you not think the SE pump all that good?
Compared to what's prowling the streets these days, it's mild. All you need is a good tune and a good oil cooler. But if you have the money burning a hole in your pocket and you feel better with it, get the pump. IMO, very little of the HD parts impress me, there are a lot better alternatives out there.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2016 | 12:38 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by djl
Oil cooler is a good idea. However, after getting that 117"er stuck in traffic for more than about 15-20 minutes the convection cooling affect is not going to keep the oil cool and she is going to heat up fast and it will take 30 minutes of 70mph cruising to cool her down again. In that situation, fans are the solution. Check out Wards fans; they work, ask anyone running them. I live and ride in south Texas; very familiar with the summer heat.

http://www.wardspartswerks.com/cooling-fans.html
I live in Phoenix and it has been known to get a bit warm here. The Wards fans are probably the best money I have spent in a long time. I have a Power Vision so I monitor my engine temp, its pretty neat sitting at a stoplight in 118 heat and watching engine temp go down to 230. I also have a Jagg 10 row oil cooler.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2016 | 02:39 PM
  #36  
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The S&S TC3 or the Feuling cam plates and pumps would be my first choices but you'd have to see if the dealer will install them to maintain the warrantee.

The stock oil pump is/was a known problem area in previous years prone to failure and at best only putting out 6psi (warm @ idle). The idea of upgrading the pump is more for reliability than for cooling. Of course if you later couple that with a larger volume oil pan with cooling fins then all the better.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2016 | 03:31 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by GibsonSG
The S&S TC3 or the Feuling cam plates and pumps would be my first choices but you'd have to see if the dealer will install them to maintain the warrantee.

The stock oil pump is/was a known problem area in previous years prone to failure and at best only putting out 6psi (warm @ idle). The idea of upgrading the pump is more for reliability than for cooling. Of course if you later couple that with a larger volume oil pan with cooling fins then all the better.
I agree that upgrading the pump will not aid in cooling the oil; however, can't agree with the statement that the OEM pump is/was "prone to failure". Where are you getting your information? News to me and I have been riding and wrenching on Twin Cams since they were introduced. The HD lubrication system is based on volume, not pressure; 6psi at idle is more than enough. I have seen the oil light blink at idle on some early TCs that had been ridden for many miles with no issue. There is nothing wrong with the OEM pumps, early or late on stock and even some garden variety performance motors. I would not recommend a stock pump for a beefed up bit inch motor making 130/130 numbers but for the average 110/115 motor, the stock pump is adequate. I still run an early pump an a fairly hot 95" 2005 FXSTD; 25K miles and nary an issue. That larger volume oil pan won't do much for cooling the oil either; money better spent on fans which will actually make a difference.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2016 | 03:55 PM
  #38  
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Granted the pump was not often the original source of failure. The OEM oil pumps were prone to failure because of sloppy crank runout and also because of debris either from general abuse or of course anytime you have something like a lifter implode or bearing come apart it was compounded by congesting the pump. The newer designs have better filtration and isolation/ redundancy in addition to better pressure and volume.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2016 | 08:35 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by GibsonSG
Granted the pump was not often the original source of failure. The OEM oil pumps were prone to failure because of sloppy crank runout and also because of debris either from general abuse or of course anytime you have something like a lifter implode or bearing come apart it was compounded by congesting the pump. The newer designs have better filtration and isolation/ redundancy in addition to better pressure and volume.
You still don't have it right; neither the early or late oil pumps are prone to failure, period. Cranks tweak and crack gerotors, tensioners come apart and pass debris through the pump which can take out the pump, etc., etc. However, tweak a crank with S&S TC3, Dan Thayer, Fueling or any other pump you can name and they will fail as well.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2016 | 09:12 PM
  #40  
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So how is it that S&S claims to have an oil pump that can tolerate greater shaft runout, has a pre-filter screen and magnetic collector...if they're all prone to the same 'weakness'?
  • Three separate sets of gerotors for consistent pressure and reliable scavenging
  • Separate scavenge sections for flywheel cavity and cam chest – no interference
  • Screens and magnetic traps help protect the scavenge rotors from debris
  • Special design allows S&S pumps to tolerate more pinion shaft run out without damage
  • Made In The USA

http://www.sscycle.com/go-fast-showc...and-cam-plate/

I'd like to think that I didn't just waste my money on a blue cam plate that just includes the torque sequence embossed on it.
 
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