Intermittent Valve Train Noise
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Stage I
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 1
Likes: 1
From: Lake Elsinore, CA
Intermittent Valve Train Noise
I'm hoping someone can shine some light on an issue for me. I picked up a 93 FXR that had been sitting for about 8 years. While going through everything I put new S&S heads, S&S quickee pushrods, fueling race lifters, and a wood W6FH cam in it with a new S&S super E carb. The one thing that I have been battling is an intermittent noise that sounds like its coming from the top end after its warm. I have a oil gauge and its showing 8-10psi. It will come when I am at a stop lights and will go after about 20-30 seconds. I can also hear it sometimes while I'm cruising down the road. Its pretty loud noise. I don't know if maybe I got a bad lifter that is just bleeding down but the motor runs great even while making this noise. Thanks for the input.
suprised there are no replies to your post.
after building my 107 kit from fuelmoto i am experiencing very similar issue.
maybe a lifter needs to be adjusted? if so which one?
if u know which one, which way do you adjust? tighten or loosen?
other than this issue my bike runs great too.
was on my 3rd ride today after rebuild on saturday. have 50 miles on it now. i can't tell you how tempting it is to open her up just to see.
hope we can get an answer or even some input from someone knowledgible.
after building my 107 kit from fuelmoto i am experiencing very similar issue.
maybe a lifter needs to be adjusted? if so which one?
if u know which one, which way do you adjust? tighten or loosen?
other than this issue my bike runs great too.
was on my 3rd ride today after rebuild on saturday. have 50 miles on it now. i can't tell you how tempting it is to open her up just to see.
hope we can get an answer or even some input from someone knowledgible.
Road Warrior
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 1,566
Likes: 55
From: Londonderry, NH
I'm hoping someone can shine some light on an issue for me. I picked up a 93 FXR that had been sitting for about 8 years. While going through everything I put new S&S heads, S&S quickee pushrods, fueling race lifters, and a wood W6FH cam in it with a new S&S super E carb. The one thing that I have been battling is an intermittent noise that sounds like its coming from the top end after its warm. I have a oil gauge and its showing 8-10psi. It will come when I am at a stop lights and will go after about 20-30 seconds. I can also hear it sometimes while I'm cruising down the road. Its pretty loud noise. I don't know if maybe I got a bad lifter that is just bleeding down but the motor runs great even while making this noise. Thanks for the input.
There have been some reports of failures with the Fueling race lifters.
Road Warrior
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 1,566
Likes: 55
From: Londonderry, NH
Call fuel Moto and check the adjustment for your pushrods. I think they use 4Turns +2 flats on their pushrods. This FM video should help.
http://www.fuelmotousa.com/p-28622-q...-pushrods.html
Last edited by nhrider1; May 1, 2016 at 08:46 AM. Reason: Added video url
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 21,116
Likes: 7,638
From: Poolville
You have assembled a nice combination there. can the heads accept the lift of that W6HF cam? Most importantly the valve to valve clearance. with lift@tdc of .218"/.200" I would look into that with S&S...
As Scott suggested, do the preload to .140" on S&S lifters. Your pushrods are 32 tpi so that would be a comfortable 4 1/2 turns. I like to do my adjustments from the top down as when doing a SBC, tighten until a little drag is felt while spinning the pushrod and the do the 4.5 full turns.
Here's S&S's link
http://www.sscycle.com/tech-info/pus...ustment-guide/
One more question with all the S&S parts why did you cheap out on the lifters?
One more thing, Ditto on the oil. Over 85* ambient consistently would require 25/50 or even better straight 60w..
As Scott suggested, do the preload to .140" on S&S lifters. Your pushrods are 32 tpi so that would be a comfortable 4 1/2 turns. I like to do my adjustments from the top down as when doing a SBC, tighten until a little drag is felt while spinning the pushrod and the do the 4.5 full turns.
Here's S&S's link
http://www.sscycle.com/tech-info/pus...ustment-guide/
One more question with all the S&S parts why did you cheap out on the lifters?
One more thing, Ditto on the oil. Over 85* ambient consistently would require 25/50 or even better straight 60w..
Last edited by 98hotrodfatboy; May 1, 2016 at 09:28 AM.
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HDF Community Team
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: san antonio
No disagreement with what others have pointed out in previous replys. I would just add two things that may be contributing to the noise. What springs/spring pressure were used on the S&S heads? If spring pressure is heavy, you could be hearing valves contacting the seats when closing. I have had friends complain about noisy valve train and when investigating for the possible source, discovered that heavy duty springs were used on the ported heads and was over kill for the cams. Replaced the heavy duty springs with OEM beehives; problem solved.
Woods cams are not known to be quiet as they have quick ramps. I am not that familiar with Woods cams and not sure if the W6FH falls into the noisy category or not. So, if the pushrods have been adjusted properly, i.e., lifters on the cam base circle and sufficient preload applied and lifters are not leaking down but the noise remains, you might just be stuck with a noisy valve train......
Woods cams are not known to be quiet as they have quick ramps. I am not that familiar with Woods cams and not sure if the W6FH falls into the noisy category or not. So, if the pushrods have been adjusted properly, i.e., lifters on the cam base circle and sufficient preload applied and lifters are not leaking down but the noise remains, you might just be stuck with a noisy valve train......
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ok, so i have about 50 miles on the build so far. am hearing a little knock. lifters have already been initially set.
then adjusted once again.
so what is the proper procedure from here?
rear cylinder TDC get pushrods at 0 lash. then a full 4 turns and 2 flats?
isn't this going to compress lifters to the brink of failure?
or do i just give it a couple of flats after 0 lash just to give it a little more preload?
thanks, you guys have been great so far
then adjusted once again.
so what is the proper procedure from here?
rear cylinder TDC get pushrods at 0 lash. then a full 4 turns and 2 flats?
isn't this going to compress lifters to the brink of failure?
or do i just give it a couple of flats after 0 lash just to give it a little more preload?
thanks, you guys have been great so far
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 21,116
Likes: 7,638
From: Poolville
ok, so i have about 50 miles on the build so far. am hearing a little knock. lifters have already been initially set.
then adjusted once again.
so what is the proper procedure from here?
rear cylinder TDC get pushrods at 0 lash. then a full 4 turns and 2 flats?
isn't this going to compress lifters to the brink of failure?
or do i just give it a couple of flats after 0 lash just to give it a little more preload?
thanks, you guys have been great so far
then adjusted once again.
so what is the proper procedure from here?
rear cylinder TDC get pushrods at 0 lash. then a full 4 turns and 2 flats?
isn't this going to compress lifters to the brink of failure?
or do i just give it a couple of flats after 0 lash just to give it a little more preload?
thanks, you guys have been great so far