Push rod install question
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Cruiser
Joined: Sep 2012
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From: Canada
Push rod install question
I know that once you install the push rod you cannot rotate the transmission until the push rod spins freely with your fingers. My question is how freely must it spin before moving to the next one? They are brand new lifters so I didn't expect them to need bleeding down but I gave it about 45 minutes anyway just to be sure. I can spin the push rod but it's not like spinning a nut onto a bolt or anything. It does take a little bit of effort when using my fingers. Is that about normal?
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Cruiser
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 208
Likes: 1
From: Canada
Sorry for all of the questions. This is my first cam job so I just want to be sure i'm on the right track.
So as of now I have both Intake push rods installed. I started with the rear and then moved to the front. I know finding TDC was the most suggested way, but I couldn't grasp it 100% and couldn't find a detailed walk through step by step video to make sure it was being done right so opted to go with the way that I had multiple videos of for instruction.
When installing the rear intake push rod I got the front intake lifter to its highest point which theoretically means (I hope) that the rear intake lifter is at its lowest point for the install. When complete I would then get the rear intake lifter and PR to its highest point so that the front intake lifter was at its lowest. I'm now moving on to the rear exhaust PR and just want to know if the process is exactly the same? So would I get the front exhaust lifter at its highest point and then begin the PR install on the rear exhaust lifter? Then to finish it off would I get the rear exhaust lifter and PR to its highest point and complete the job on the front exhaust lifter?
Thanks in advance for your help
So as of now I have both Intake push rods installed. I started with the rear and then moved to the front. I know finding TDC was the most suggested way, but I couldn't grasp it 100% and couldn't find a detailed walk through step by step video to make sure it was being done right so opted to go with the way that I had multiple videos of for instruction.
When installing the rear intake push rod I got the front intake lifter to its highest point which theoretically means (I hope) that the rear intake lifter is at its lowest point for the install. When complete I would then get the rear intake lifter and PR to its highest point so that the front intake lifter was at its lowest. I'm now moving on to the rear exhaust PR and just want to know if the process is exactly the same? So would I get the front exhaust lifter at its highest point and then begin the PR install on the rear exhaust lifter? Then to finish it off would I get the rear exhaust lifter and PR to its highest point and complete the job on the front exhaust lifter?
Thanks in advance for your help
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,459
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From: Vancouver Island B.C.
I use a straw thru the plug hole to find tdc. Then I just make sure the tops of the lifters are flush with the roll pin with my finger. Adjust both pushrods , wait till they spin and then move to the other cylinder. If you are 180* out with tdc the exhaust lifter will be above the roll pin.
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6th Gear
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I know that once you install the push rod you cannot rotate the transmission until the push rod spins freely with your fingers. My question is how freely must it spin before moving to the next one? They are brand new lifters so I didn't expect them to need bleeding down but I gave it about 45 minutes anyway just to be sure. I can spin the push rod but it's not like spinning a nut onto a bolt or anything. It does take a little bit of effort when using my fingers. Is that about normal?
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From: Poolville
I always adjust the lifters from the top down. Like the way the Chilton Manual says to adjust the hydraulic lifters of a small block Chevy. I do it this way because sometimes I'm truly not sure if the lifter has bled down all the way.
So In others words, I bring the front cylinder to top dead center (I assume you are using adjustable pushrods) and from there i make sure there is space between the lifter and the pushrod (in other words I can actually lift the pushrod out of the lifter a tad) before I start to lengthen the pushrod. While lengthening the pushrod I spin it feeling for slight resistance and checking up and down movement. Once I feel that the pushrod has seated in the lifter without opening the valve or collapsing the plunger in the lifter I then proceed to set the preload of .140". there are several different adjustable pushrods manufacturers out there so make sure you adjust appropriately. S$S are 32 tpi and SE are 24 tpi. An S$S 32 tpi thread will have .0313" of an inch increase per full turn and will require 27 flats (4.5 furn turns) to get the preload of .140".. A 24 tpi pushrod has .0417" travel per full turn and would require 3 full turns and 2 flat to get .140" preload..
Like I said I use this way because I'm sure I did not over preload the lifter... and I don't have to worry if it bled down all the way...
So In others words, I bring the front cylinder to top dead center (I assume you are using adjustable pushrods) and from there i make sure there is space between the lifter and the pushrod (in other words I can actually lift the pushrod out of the lifter a tad) before I start to lengthen the pushrod. While lengthening the pushrod I spin it feeling for slight resistance and checking up and down movement. Once I feel that the pushrod has seated in the lifter without opening the valve or collapsing the plunger in the lifter I then proceed to set the preload of .140". there are several different adjustable pushrods manufacturers out there so make sure you adjust appropriately. S$S are 32 tpi and SE are 24 tpi. An S$S 32 tpi thread will have .0313" of an inch increase per full turn and will require 27 flats (4.5 furn turns) to get the preload of .140".. A 24 tpi pushrod has .0417" travel per full turn and would require 3 full turns and 2 flat to get .140" preload..
Like I said I use this way because I'm sure I did not over preload the lifter... and I don't have to worry if it bled down all the way...
Last edited by 98hotrodfatboy; Oct 18, 2016 at 08:45 PM.
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