P0051 & P0154 Codes
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Stage II
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: Salt Lake City
P0051 & P0154 Codes
Running into a really odd issue.
Setup:
2016 Softail Breakout
V&H Big Radius Pipes
V&H FP3 Tuner with canned map (autotune off)
Started throwing codes P0051 (Rear HO2 heater low/open) and P0154 (Oxygen sensor high/open rear) codes. I replaced the rear O2 sensor and put a new crush gasket on the rear pipe, but I'm still seeing the same codes. The check engine light will come on when accelerating and go off when idling at a stop light or when coasting downhill with no throttle. I've been running the pipes and tune for almost 4K miles with no problem. I used new gaskets when I installed the pipes.
I thought for sure it was a bad sensor or an exhaust leak. I'm totally stumped at this point. Has anyone seen this before, or have any ideas? Also, I'm supposed to leave for a road trip this week. My better judgement tells me not to ride the bike for long distances in this state because it may cause the rear to run too rich? Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Jed
Setup:
2016 Softail Breakout
V&H Big Radius Pipes
V&H FP3 Tuner with canned map (autotune off)
Started throwing codes P0051 (Rear HO2 heater low/open) and P0154 (Oxygen sensor high/open rear) codes. I replaced the rear O2 sensor and put a new crush gasket on the rear pipe, but I'm still seeing the same codes. The check engine light will come on when accelerating and go off when idling at a stop light or when coasting downhill with no throttle. I've been running the pipes and tune for almost 4K miles with no problem. I used new gaskets when I installed the pipes.
I thought for sure it was a bad sensor or an exhaust leak. I'm totally stumped at this point. Has anyone seen this before, or have any ideas? Also, I'm supposed to leave for a road trip this week. My better judgement tells me not to ride the bike for long distances in this state because it may cause the rear to run too rich? Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Jed
Last edited by jobibreakout; Sep 5, 2016 at 02:45 PM.
Road Warrior
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,923
Likes: 587
From: Alorton, Illinois
Did you depin the connector to get it though the oil tank? Are the pins in the right position and seated correctly? I would also check the pins going to the ECM. It is pin 15 on one plug and 17 on the other.
I know it is a new sensor and should work but I wouldn't take that for granted. You can switch the sensors front and back and see if it follows. They are the same just different plugs on them that are easily switched.
I know it is a new sensor and should work but I wouldn't take that for granted. You can switch the sensors front and back and see if it follows. They are the same just different plugs on them that are easily switched.
Did you depin the connector to get it though the oil tank? Are the pins in the right position and seated correctly? I would also check the pins going to the ECM. It is pin 15 on one plug and 17 on the other.
I know it is a new sensor and should work but I wouldn't take that for granted. You can switch the sensors front and back and see if it follows. They are the same just different plugs on them that are easily switched.
I know it is a new sensor and should work but I wouldn't take that for granted. You can switch the sensors front and back and see if it follows. They are the same just different plugs on them that are easily switched.
Road Warrior
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,923
Likes: 587
From: Alorton, Illinois
Not what I meant. Remove the front sensor, and put it in the rear location and hook it to the rear connection. Remove the rear plug and install it in the front location and hook it to the front location. I am suggesting to just swap the sensor. This is why I mentioned switching the connectors so back would still be black.
If the problem follows the sensors. ding, ding, ding. If the problem stays with the cylinder. It's not the sensor.
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