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Cylinder studs?

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Old Oct 13, 2016 | 10:58 PM
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Default Cylinder studs?
How are you guys going about checking torque on cylinder studs when doing a big bore?


Edit. Looked his morning and realized I was pretty vague. What I mean is when doing a big bore what do the pros do? Remove, clean and reinstall the studs? Install new studs? Torque to factory spec and see if it moves? Thanks for any advice
 
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Old Oct 14, 2016 | 07:23 AM
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10, 20, 30, and then 42 ft/lbs is how we have done it for almost 2 decades now.
Once torqued correctly, no need to fiddle with it.
Scott
 
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Old Oct 14, 2016 | 07:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Hillsidecycle.com
10, 20, 30, and then 42 ft/lbs is how we have done it for almost 2 decades now.
Once torqued correctly, no need to fiddle with it.
Scott
Right but I mean after the jugs have been removed. Do you do anything with the studs themselves before reassembly? Like to verify they're torqued correctly into the case

I'm in the process of repairing a base gasket leak in a 120R. Just want to make sure I have everything covered.
 
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Old Oct 14, 2016 | 05:47 PM
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If the stud is shouldered, you use a ball bearing and one of the OE fasteners (bearing goes in the fastener) and the stud had loctite on it from the factory. There is a torque spec in the manual.

If the stud if not shouldered, there is an install height and it should have been loctited in.

It's unlikely that a stud backed out when taking the head off though.
 
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Old Oct 14, 2016 | 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Ed Ramberger
If the stud is shouldered, you use a ball bearing and one of the OE fasteners (bearing goes in the fastener) and the stud had loctite on it from the factory. There is a torque spec in the manual.

If the stud if not shouldered, there is an install height and it should have been loctited in.

It's unlikely that a stud backed out when taking the head off though.
I have the snap on stud remover/installer set. They use red loctite and last set I did the install torque was right around 20 ft/lbs. I had loose studs on a 107 build recently. You could visibly see a couple weren't threaded in as far as the rest. I used a digital torque wrench to remove the studs and they all broke free easily. Out of the 8 the easiest one broke at just 5 ft/lbs and the hardest was only 13 ft/lbs. what I'm asking here is what is the generally accepted way to check these studs to determine if they're still torqued properly. I really don't want to remove and reinstall the studs every time if I don't have to. At the same time I don't want to chance having one back out either. I've been through the service manual many times and I can't find anything referencing how to check these. Only how to install new ones.
 
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Old Oct 14, 2016 | 08:17 PM
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IMO, there is no good way to test locktited bolts. You can check torque to about 70% of rated torque, anything over that and you're taking a good chance of breaking the locktite, then you're worse off than when you started. If you really want to be sure, pull the studs, clean the holes and reinstall.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2016 | 06:47 PM
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so if I do a big bore kit on a newer bike, 16 Limited, do I have to remove and reinstall studs??
that seems like overkill
I cant find anything in service manual
 
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Old Oct 15, 2016 | 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by bad tappets
IMO, there is no good way to test locktited bolts. You can check torque to about 70% of rated torque, anything over that and you're taking a good chance of breaking the locktite, then you're worse off than when you started. If you really want to be sure, pull the studs, clean the holes and reinstall.
Good point.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2016 | 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by 94 ultra
so if I do a big bore kit on a newer bike, 16 Limited, do I have to remove and reinstall studs??
that seems like overkill
I cant find anything in service manual
I never did in the past until the one that backed off. Now I worry if I don't that I may miss something, which is why I started this thread
 
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