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Engine (re)build time

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Old Dec 12, 2016 | 10:45 PM
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Default Engine (re)build time

Started off as chasing a noise, ending up as an excuse to make some upgrades.

Thread on engine noise here:
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/engin...end-noise.html

In the meantime, I'm determining how I'm going to put it back together so I can start budgeting and gathering parts. Figured I'd start a thread to bounce some ideas around, and because I love reading other peoples motor build threads. Its 3 degrees outside right now here in Minnesota, so I've got some time.

Here's my current setup: '09 Super Glide Custom. 103" using SE flat top pistons, Wood 555 cams, WFOLarry Stage 1 heads (stock valves), S&S Standard Lifters, D&D Fatcat, tuned with a Thundermax. Its never been dyno tuned as I can't find anybody locally that seems interested in fine tuning a TMax. I did run it on a dyno once at a local bike event. Ended up 89hp at 5500rpm, and 98ft-lbs at 4000rpm. Less than I expected, but the curve pointed at some tuning issues.





My goal this time is to end up at 105-110hp, and 115-120tq, with an emphasis on mid range torque over peak hp numbers.

I think I can get there using the current Wood 555 cams I have now. My plan is to bore my existing cylinders to 107" and bump the compression (I'm not sure exactly what is is now, but I know its 180-185psi). I considered 110 or 117, but I think I can achieve my goals with 107" and save some money to spend elsewhere. I'll see what Larry recommends, but I'm thinking I'll send the heads back to him for a more aggressive port job with bigger valves. Not sure what I'm going to do as far as the throttle body. I've considered a Screaming Eagle 50mm or possibly having my existing one ported. A HPI is probably the way to go, but they're serious cash.

I'm not completely opposed to a cam swap, but I'm not sure its necessary. I may be able to be convinced otherwise. S&S 585s get mentioned a lot in similar threads, and I like the EZ start concept. I've got manual compression releases now, which are kind of a hassle. But I'd just as soon keep the 555s if they can get the job done, and spend that money elsewhere.

As far as the lower end, that's still up in the air. I'd love to ship it to Darkhorse for truing/welding/Timkin, and I may still do that. Depends on what I end up figuring out the noise I'm chasing to be, or if I can convince myself to drop the cash.

I'm also considering ditching the Tmax and going with a Power Vision, followed up with a full dyno tune.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2016 | 09:19 AM
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If money allows, I'd go straight to a 117", and make a cam move.
Larry will get your heads working well.
Scott
 
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Old Dec 13, 2016 | 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Hillsidecycle.com
If money allows, I'd go straight to a 117", and make a cam move.
Larry will get your heads working well.
Scott
Add the cubes...win/win.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2016 | 02:35 PM
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I assumed I'd get the "go 117"...

Easy to say when it's other people's money. If I don't have any crankwork done, the cost is significant. Even if I do, it's still a fair amount of extra cost, especially if factoring in clutch upgrades etc.

I'm on a tight budget, but I'm not looking to cut corners. I want a motor that will be reliable for many thousands of miles, but with a nice solid torque punch when I twist the throttle.

I don't think my bike in its current setup is slow, and I'm not trying to one-up a buddy or anything. I honestly think I'll be happy with the numbers I posted above, and I think with proper headwork and a good tune I can get there with a 107"

I'm not ruling out a 117" yet, but I don't think it's in the budget, nor do I really think I need it.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2016 | 02:38 PM
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For the sake of discussion though...

How about a 117", but using my existing heads, throttle body, and cams? Maybe a route to consider for now, could upgrade heads and cams down the road. Just a thought.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2016 | 02:54 PM
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Cubes first, and head work and cams later (if you don't have the coin to do it all).
A good pipe and tune in the meantime.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2016 | 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Reindeer
I assumed I'd get the "go 117"...

Easy to say when it's other people's money. If I don't have any crankwork done, the cost is significant. Even if I do, it's still a fair amount of extra cost, especially if factoring in clutch upgrades etc.

I'm on a tight budget, but I'm not looking to cut corners. I want a motor that will be reliable for many thousands of miles, but with a nice solid torque punch when I twist the throttle.

I don't think my bike in its current setup is slow, and I'm not trying to one-up a buddy or anything. I honestly think I'll be happy with the numbers I posted above, and I think with proper headwork and a good tune I can get there with a 107"

I'm not ruling out a 117" yet, but I don't think it's in the budget, nor do I really think I need it.
For your objectives a 107 would be a great option, it should be fairly easy to get into the Hp/Tq range you are seeking using most of your existing components. I would also recommend the SE 50mm TB, it comes with 4.9gm injectors and at $399 its not only a bargain; it performs well too. Depending on what your budget allows you could do a piston/cylinder kit that includes boring your factory cylinders, or if interested we just released our Fuel Moto Extreme Duty cylinder/piston kits, if you want to push it a bit further we also offer a 110 drop on kit that adds a few more cubes as well.
As far as tuning Power Vision would be my best recommendation, we have built and tuned in the 100's of Dyna's with 107 kits and can supply a base calibration no problem, we also have base cals for Thundermax as well. We also offer unlimited tuning support. If you feel any of our products or components may be a good fit just let us know and we're here to help.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2016 | 05:48 PM
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OP-

Correct me if I am wrong, but you don't spin it up to 6 plus on a regular basis, are on a budget, and are looking for big mid level rpm torque (3-4 grand), out of a rebuild? Sounds good, Now, with this goal, you think you are gonna pull 110 hp/120 TQ out of a 107", SAE, on modern DJ software that is repeatable on most any dyno, plus or minus a few?
And, on top of this, you are gonna do this with your mild cam, mild CR, and head work? All the while leaving your HD bottom end stock from the factory, and you want it to last a long time right?
Larry does great work, and I would go big cubes WITH his work done, but if you are looking for a torque monster without spinnin' it up, cubes win all day....fact.
I'm sure you have done a search already, and have read the dozen of stories of guys who wish they would have gone bigger at one shot, not one step at at time.
Cubes, correct exhaust and tune (and a gearing change), are the ticket for your goals.
Look, I go all the way, top to bottom, with my motors, and if I don't have the cash to do it right, I wait till I do, so I don't understand your logic, but start with the cubes....
Let me put it another way, My 126" makes as much HP as a S&S 143" (with less TQ), but I have to spin it up big time to do it, using the best head work, and parts to keep it all together.
A bone stock 143" does the same (with more TQ than my motor), without breaking a sweat, at a mild cam and compression level....
Cubes (set up right), win in most every contest...
 
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Old Dec 13, 2016 | 11:11 PM
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That makes a ton of sense.

So if you were building a 117 with a mild cam --say for example a Wood 555 -- but with the potential for future expansion (more aggressive headwork and cams) what would a good goal for compression be?
 
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Old Dec 14, 2016 | 10:54 AM
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At that point, planning forward, I would contact Larry, give him your goals, and see where he wants to set his heads up. I do see Pistons in your future though...
Pistons and heads-milk and cookies.
 
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