So you want facts, I can certainly understand this.

Harley has issued and ECM update titled "Low idle and Dead Stop at Mid Range RPMs. This is a fact that you can check with Harley.

Harley has noted pinched wire on the Throttle Control Valve. No recall yet but it has been found on several bikes including mine. And yes, they did fix it. I still have the repair order on this but you can either accept it or not.

DynoJet does not post these things on their site, they only post facts about their tools. During email conversations with them, I was informed of this along with other issues they have noted.

Lastly, I used the Power Vision to do the tuning. First by flashing the ECM, dyno the engine to adjust the VE tables. Bump the idle to 875 and modified the Idle Spark Control Max setting from 8 to 5. This prevents the idle from making hard swings on timing when attempting to maintain idle.

You did attack on a personal level with the first post comment. A more mature way would have been to ask "Hey, what do you mean by this?", "Hey, what kind of scoot are we talking about here?", "Hey, can you introduce yourself to the community?".

Lastly, the bike I performed this on was a 2017 Ultra Limited that I own and both a 2017 Street Glide and Road Glide owned by friends.

I just re-tuned my Ultra last weekend as I modified to a high flow air, 2016 exhaust, with CAT still installed and Hooker Tune-able Slip-Ons. The slip ons are no longer available from Hooker and I wanted to use what I had. So I had to drop back to a 2016 exhaust to maintain the 1.75" on both sides of the outlets. Same ECM modifications were required on not only this mod but on the same two bikes above with difference between using true dual vance setup on the Street/Road glides.

Now, these are the only bikes that I have modified but I have over 20 friends with the M8 and they are all experiencing the same stock problems once they became aware of what to look for. So I will retract my statement about ALL and simply leave it with ALL that I have had any dealing with.

My back ground, previously an ASE mechanic, currently and Electronic/Electrical Engineer with experience in design of computing systems down to board, circuit and chip. This may not be enough to say I have a clue what I am talking about so I will take it as such.

I am out of this post, have a nice day.

 

Thanks for the information. Just one question. If I understand correctly, you installed a 2016 twin cam head pipe on a 2017 M8. Aren't the port angles different?

 

yes, I did install 2016 headpipes. And yes, the angles are 'slightly' different but not enough that they do not seats and seal. The only issue notable was the O2 sensor, if you want to keep them which I did, is that you have to relocate them back to the lower end of the pipe in front of the CAT. And it is a very close fit at the install point of the rear O2 and the trans side cover.
Here is a pick showing tue 2016 headpipe on the M8.

 

I am experiencing the same problem with my 2018 ultra limited. It ran fine for 3000 miles with no problems, but recently it started stalling when gearing down and coming to a stop. You have to find neutral to start it again. Very dangerous. I called two Harley service managers to see if they had seen this problem and neither said they had. With what I have read on this forum and seen in other media areas about this problem, it's hard to believe neither of the two dealerships have seen this problem. One manager said he will research the symptoms I am experiencing and will let me know something tomorrow. Hope there is a fix. The bike is all stock but for the V&H HO slipons I added.

 

It's a faulty clutch switch. Tell them to search for that. It's an easy fix

 

Appreciate your input. The following are the symptoms I am experiencing after 3000mi: When coming to a stop, gearing down and depressing the clutch, the rpms will drop from 850 to nearly 500 (or less) and unless I rev the engine the engine will stall. When it does stall, I have to find neutral (I find that difficult sometimes) before it will start again. Got caught in Daytona bike week stop and go traffic when it happened once. Embarrassing !!! The problem is that it is intermittent, so I believe it will be difficult for the service dept to duplicate the problem. I do find that using the clutch is different than my 2016, but I
am getting use to the hydraulic clutch. I'm pretty sure that my use of the clutch has nothing to do with the stalling problem when coming to a stop. I am giving the service manager as much info from this forum as I can, and hopefully that will be of some assistance to him. I mention these specifics, that you might still agree that the clutch switch is the problem..

 

Like has been said it's the clutch safety switch and the bitch is it can be an intermittent problem, took mine for the same reason and the tech couldn't get it to not work , got home and it was out again. Look in between the handle and the housing you'll see a black plunger going into the switch housing, lube it with something and 99% of the time the issue your having goes away.

And contrary to those who say it can't happen as you've described yes it can mines done it a few times, how I know it's time to lube the plunger again.

 

Descriptions of the problem sound a lot like its a tune problem. Had this same type of issue with a highly modified 2009 Mustang (633 rwhp, 627 rwtq) - which could only be fixed by tweaking the tune on the dyno.

 

Tuning problems won't keep you from starting the bike unless it's in neutral, even with the clutch pulled in. Sounds to me like a faulty clutch switch.

 

Read this thread http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...a9mwGWWeD-e4mC