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Cam Tensioner

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Old Jan 30, 2017 | 02:23 PM
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Default Cam Tensioner

thank you to those who responded to my question. The bike has 35000 miles on it and i believe the only mods have been a power commander and exaust. I am leaning more towards the gears for replacing the chain. for those who did not read my previous post, i have a 04 electra glide that has a slight knocking sound in the engine which i believe has to do with the cam tensioner failing. I want to put gears in it if possible but i dont really know how the numbering of the gears works such as 510, 585, wrx. a buddy of mine told me to go with the 510 s&s gears but i wanted more input. I ride on mostly backroads and dont ride the bike too hard. What size gears should i go with? How much should i be spending to have someone do this for me? i appreciate the input and apologize for the long post but this is my first harley and i dont want to mess it up, i want it to last.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2017 | 02:33 PM
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I recently did mine, using the Andrews 37G cams. 510s are probably pretty good too. Pretty easy overall.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2017 | 02:37 PM
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I believe you can get almost any cam in a chain or gear version. First, you need to determine which cam you need for your application. I'm sure some of the cam experts will chime in.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2017 | 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Jim18919
thank you to those who responded to my question. The bike has 35000 miles on it and i believe the only mods have been a power commander and exaust. I am leaning more towards the gears for replacing the chain. for those who did not read my previous post, i have a 04 electra glide that has a slight knocking sound in the engine which i believe has to do with the cam tensioner failing. I want to put gears in it if possible but i dont really know how the numbering of the gears works such as 510, 585, wrx. a buddy of mine told me to go with the 510 s&s gears but i wanted more input. I ride on mostly backroads and dont ride the bike too hard. What size gears should i go with? How much should i be spending to have someone do this for me? i appreciate the input and apologize for the long post but this is my first harley and i dont want to mess it up, i want it to last.
Hey Jim, Where are you in Ma.? Do you have a Great H-D Tech lined up? You don't just pull the cam cover off, & install New Gear Cams, like what we did with Evos! Your Crank run-out has to be within specs, starting in 03, H-D'S 100th, the Cranks are Cast, instead of Forged, to save money & cheapen the Bike! You might have to go the 07 Hydraulic Tensioner route? Good Luck!
 
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Old Jan 30, 2017 | 03:08 PM
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Like Boston Jim said, you need to check your crankshaft runout first.
If you're taking it to someone, have them check your runout, then you can make the decision on which way to go.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2017 | 04:23 PM
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I've got an '05 RK Custom and went with the S&S 509's at 28,000 miles. I described my riding style to the indie and he recommended the 509's over the 510's. I can't remember his reasoning off the top of my head but when he explained it it made perfect sense. Your riding style is very similar to mine.

With all the parts and I believe about 6 hours of labor I was looking at about 1300.

I love it. Changed the sound at idle. I def felt the difference out on the highway. Don't notice it now that I'm used to it.

I just didn't trust those tensioners. I'm glad I did it.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2017 | 08:43 AM
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As has been said, check crank run out first; should be less than .003". If budget allows gear drive, that's the way to go; no more tensioner issues; nada forever. The S&S 509 is a better choice than the 510 because of the earlier intake close which increases corrected compression and CCP which makes torque. You don't need a high volume pump but if you want one there is one available from Daytona for about $140 on Ebay. Upgrade your inner cam bearings while you at it as well as the outer cam bearings. There are some "package" deals for cams, gears, bearings available online. You will need some tools for the job but there are work arounds that will save you some $$.

Remember that the valve springs in the '04 heads limit cam lift to .510" according to the MoCo but many have run up to .525" lift with no issues. Having said that, the S&S 509 is a great choice for a cam only upgrade for an otherwise stock or Stage I TC88.

Photos of how to check crank run out and set lash on inner and outer gears FYI.
 
Attached Thumbnails Cam Tensioner-innerlashsetup.jpg   Cam Tensioner-outer-lash.jpg   Cam Tensioner-runoutchecksetup.jpg  

Last edited by djl; Jan 31, 2017 at 09:09 AM.
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Old Feb 2, 2017 | 02:55 PM
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hi jim,
i am in north reading and no i do not know who to have work on my bike. do i go with hd or with the guy who used to work for hd who now has his own shop. thanks for the response. do you know of any good mechanics in my area? if the runout is good do you think the gears are the best way to go?
 
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Old Feb 3, 2017 | 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by boston jim
Hey Jim, Where are you in Ma.? Do you have a Great H-D Tech lined up? You don't just pull the cam cover off, & install New Gear Cams, like what we did with Evos! Your Crank run-out has to be within specs, starting in 03, H-D'S 100th, the Cranks are Cast, instead of Forged, to save money & cheapen the Bike! You might have to go the 07 Hydraulic Tensioner route? Good Luck!

Actually the cranks are forgings, where they went bad was eliminating the Timken-style motor sprocket bearing for 03, this forced a new comp assembly with very high torque values to keep it together. the constant hammering of the v Twin power pulse tends to loosen the clamp load on the comp bolt enough to let the flywheel shift and get into the backside of the cam plate. Another issue, mostly on 06-07, but can happen on all 06-up is that the engineers tried to ease the assembly process by using various assembly lubes that allowed them to use a tighter press fit. we found that the lube overcame any benefit of the tighter press and caused way more issues than it fixed.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2017 | 11:45 AM
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Actually, the compensator didn't change until '07. Clamping issue on early compensators could be addressed by trimming comp nut or using shims supplied from the MoCo. The main crank issue was outsourcing manufacture to an off shore supplier; quality issues.
 
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