TC Tensioner Failure Prevention
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1st Gear
Joined: Mar 2017
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From: Lexington
TC Tensioner Failure Prevention
New to HD and new to this forum I'm seeking advice. This is likely a dead horse issue and my apologies if its totally beat to death but I learned of the TC 88 cam chain tensioner problems AFTER the purchase of my low mileage and seemingly flawless 2006 Road King. At 7k miles it sounds and runs perfectly and I intend to keep it that way.
I want to order the best replacement tensioner shoes, can you guys tell me what brands to trust?
Replace inner needle bearings. B148 I'm told is the number and is Torrington the best? Should I invest in the bearing tool or is a slide hammer type for removal and freezing the bearing ok to install?
I would replace the shoes every 10 to 20k miles which for me might be every 3rd year. Should I go back with adjustable push rods or can I remove oem without pulling heads?
I ride easy and use fully synthetic at conservative intervals.
Thanks for advice
I want to order the best replacement tensioner shoes, can you guys tell me what brands to trust?
Replace inner needle bearings. B148 I'm told is the number and is Torrington the best? Should I invest in the bearing tool or is a slide hammer type for removal and freezing the bearing ok to install?
I would replace the shoes every 10 to 20k miles which for me might be every 3rd year. Should I go back with adjustable push rods or can I remove oem without pulling heads?
I ride easy and use fully synthetic at conservative intervals.
Thanks for advice
HDF Community Team
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 12,779
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From: san antonio
I already have provided my suggestions on tensioner shoes in your last post in another thread. I have removed the inner cam bearings with a blind hole puller that can be rented/borrowed from Auto Zone and/or Advanced Auto and installed the new by tapping them in with an old cam shaft. Freeze the bearing over night, apply assembly lube to the bearing and boss, make sure the bearing is started straight with numbers facing out and tap them in. Or spend $125, or thereabouts for the R/R tool.
Adjustable push rods vs removing heads is a personal call and a simple trade off between cost and time; either way will work. I would pay attention to the rotation of the chains and reinstall them so they are rotating in the same direction. I would also pay attention to the lifters and pushrods and put the lifters back in the same bore they came out of and the pushrods back on the rocker arm they came off of.
Adjustable push rods vs removing heads is a personal call and a simple trade off between cost and time; either way will work. I would pay attention to the rotation of the chains and reinstall them so they are rotating in the same direction. I would also pay attention to the lifters and pushrods and put the lifters back in the same bore they came out of and the pushrods back on the rocker arm they came off of.
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1st Gear
Joined: Mar 2017
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From: Lexington
I would prefer solid pushrods if I can remove rocker towers. I assume piston up on the compression stroke to relieve tension. But I won't be removing heads. I'm a noob to HD engines as you can tell.
I'll check crank runout while in there. Maybe gear drive cams in the future.
I'll check crank runout while in there. Maybe gear drive cams in the future.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 100,455
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From: Centennial, CO
I already have provided my suggestions on tensioner shoes in your last post in another thread. I have removed the inner cam bearings with a blind hole puller that can be rented/borrowed from Auto Zone and/or Advanced Auto and installed the new by tapping them in with an old cam shaft. Freeze the bearing over night, apply assembly lube to the bearing and boss, make sure the bearing is started straight with numbers facing out and tap them in. Or spend $125, or thereabouts for the R/R tool.
Adjustable push rods vs removing heads is a personal call and a simple trade off between cost and time; either way will work. I would pay attention to the rotation of the chains and reinstall them so they are rotating in the same direction. I would also pay attention to the lifters and pushrods and put the lifters back in the same bore they came out of and the pushrods back on the rocker arm they came off of.
Adjustable push rods vs removing heads is a personal call and a simple trade off between cost and time; either way will work. I would pay attention to the rotation of the chains and reinstall them so they are rotating in the same direction. I would also pay attention to the lifters and pushrods and put the lifters back in the same bore they came out of and the pushrods back on the rocker arm they came off of.
Road Master
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 1,041
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From: Susanville CA
I would prefer solid pushrods if I can remove rocker towers. I assume piston up on the compression stroke to relieve tension. But I won't be removing heads. I'm a noob to HD engines as you can tell.
I'll check crank runout while in there. Maybe gear drive cams in the future.
I'll check crank runout while in there. Maybe gear drive cams in the future.
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Road Master
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 1,002
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From: Penticton BC Canada
Leave the bike alone for another 20k miles, it will be fine.
I also got all caught up in the internet hype about tensioners.
Mine had 9500 miles and I just had to do the conversion.....
Shoulda just left it alone, spent a lot of money and created some other problems in the process.
I also got all caught up in the internet hype about tensioners.
Mine had 9500 miles and I just had to do the conversion.....
Shoulda just left it alone, spent a lot of money and created some other problems in the process.
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Joe Kucinski
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Joined: Dec 2005
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From: poway
I suspect that tensioner longevity is really based on heat and how much time the bike sits idling.. Idling puts the most load on the tensioner as the lifters can roll the cam forward loading the spring.. When the tensioner side of the chain slackens, tensioner slaps the chain. Those little bubbles you see in the tensioners are from the tensioner impacting the chain. If there were in the tensioner from the start, you'd see them with a cross section.
I know a guy that got close 60K out of a set of tensioners. He didn't use his bike in town much. I removed a set with 22k on them and they looked like they could have gone 60 easy.. Bike didn't sit in traffic much even thought it was driven to work through town.
Letting the motor get real hot does not help. Plastics all have a temp limit.
I know a guy that got close 60K out of a set of tensioners. He didn't use his bike in town much. I removed a set with 22k on them and they looked like they could have gone 60 easy.. Bike didn't sit in traffic much even thought it was driven to work through town.
Letting the motor get real hot does not help. Plastics all have a temp limit.
Banned
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 894
Likes: 25
From: Jacksonville FL
Replacing good parts is interesting way to spend time and money. Can you find something better to do?
Unfortunately I did exactly the same, replacing some part just in case on my KLR650 after reading their forum.
Unfortunately I did exactly the same, replacing some part just in case on my KLR650 after reading their forum.
Last edited by 13RoadKing; Mar 20, 2017 at 04:59 PM.