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Engine Mechanical TopicsDiscussion for motor builds, cams, head work, stripped bolts and other engine related issues. The good and the bad. If it goes round and around or up and down, post it here.
Will try this tonight. Any idea why the lifters would never bleed down with 3.5 turns on a woods 777 and a 999 cam? We ended up backing them down to 2.5 and super noisy
You don't have to wait for the lifter to bleed down... There is another method of adjusting that is identical to doing a SBC. From the top down. I've always done it this way and have never had an issue. And yes of course make sure you're at tdc.
Just to be clear, they need to be set at .145"? it was my understanding that they need to be approximately .100"
Set pre load at .100" if you want; let it rattle. It is a common practice to preload lifters beyond .100" to keep slack out of the valve train and reduce noise. Sometimes deeper preload reduce noise, sometimes it doesn't. If it doesn't you need to look elsewhere for a solution; maybe weak lifters or maybe rocker shafts.
Set pre load at .100" if you want; let it rattle. It is a common practice to preload lifters beyond .100" to keep slack out of the valve train and reduce noise. Sometimes deeper preload reduce noise, sometimes it doesn't. If it doesn't you need to look elsewhere for a solution; maybe weak lifters or maybe rocker shafts.
Thanks for the input I am new to adjusting pushrods so this helps a ton. It wasn't very loud, but was still audible. Hopefully adjusting them deeper will quiet them down a bit.
Thanks for the input I am new to adjusting pushrods so this helps a ton. It wasn't very loud, but was still audible. Hopefully adjusting them deeper will quiet them down a bit.
It might but a pushrod motor makes some noise; hard to keep those moving parts quiet. If heavy springs have been installed, preload won't likely overcome the noise of valves tapping the seats. Hope a little more preload does the job.
Ok I just got done readjusting the pushrods and still a little clatter but was going to ride it and see if it goes away but the oil light came on and the oil tank is completely full after starting it about to come out the top with 3 quarts. What's going on here?
Maybe you have valve train noise because you have an oil pressure problem. Did you mess with the oil pump? Why are you replacing push rods? Did you replace cams? Did you get all the o-rings in correctly? How much work did you do on the motor?
Changed the cams and that's it. Did not remove the oil pump from the cam plate and made sure both brown i rings and yellow o rings were put in correctly. Just checked for sumping and only about 4 oz of oil came out so I feel like I'm fine there but the oil is clear to the top of the inlet opening like it wants to spew out
So, you left the oil pump on cam plate, and did not install oil pump back on the crank before installing cam support plate? Possibly you don't have the oil pump aligned properly. Are you sure you have the scavange port o ring installed on the oil pump correctly?
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