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Engine Mechanical TopicsDiscussion for motor builds, cams, head work, stripped bolts and other engine related issues. The good and the bad. If it goes round and around or up and down, post it here.
Gerotor was broken in the pump. Now we can't get the oil pump out. Any ideas
This is why you need to align the oil pump. Glad you found the issue. Place oil pump on pinion shaft, place cam plate on and loosely fasten with 4 screws. Preferably use tapered oil pump alignment screws, and fasten cam plate to oil pump. Pull plugs, turn the motor over with the rear wheel, tighten oil pump screws, rotate motor, tighten oil pump screws, repeat until everything is aligned and tight.
Your next post - #28 is the relief valve spring; assuming you are looking at the diagram someone posted in this thread. Do you mean #29, gerotor? Try removing with needle nose pliers or something.
This is why you need to align the oil pump. Glad you found the issue. Place oil pump on pinion shaft, place cam plate on and loosely fasten with 4 screws. Preferably use tapered oil pump alignment screws, and fasten cam plate to oil pump. Pull plugs, turn the motor over with the rear wheel, tighten oil pump screws, rotate motor, tighten oil pump screws, repeat until everything is aligned and tight.
Your next post - #28 is the relief valve spring; assuming you are looking at the diagram someone posted in this thread. Do you mean #29, gerotor? Try removing with needle nose pliers or something.
Good luck.
got it off after having so use emery cloth to smooth the shaft down a bit. Lesson learned there. I don't have a gauge to check runout yet but will be getting one. How do I know that the crank is ok? It had some scarring on it
got it off after having so use emery cloth to smooth the shaft down a bit. Lesson learned there. I don't have a gauge to check runout yet but will be getting one. How do I know that the crank is ok? It had some scarring on it
Only way to check runout is with a dial indicator. You buy them pretty cheap these days. My pinion shaft had scaring and was at .0035 runout. Stock cam plate bushing bore was off a bit, new one seems fine. Can you feel ridges in the pinion shaft? If so, might want to check out the cause. What does pinion shuaft bushing look like - scored too?
i had a dial indicator but the base was so heavy that i couldnt get it to hold sturdy enough on the bike to get a good read so ill be getting a new one. I can feel the ridges on the shaft and could even see that was why the gerotor wouldnt come off. i assume it was caused by the other broken gerotor spinning on it. the bushing in the camplate had one nick in it but looks like it needs replaced but not much scoring if any
Post picks of the scored pinion shaft. You can probably smooth things out with some fine emery cloth and run it; same with the pinion shaft bushing. You really need to get a read on run out before you put everything back together. If excessive run out caused the problem, it will just happen again. The shop procedure for replacing the pinion shaft bushing requires an alignment process but I have replaced them without following that procedure with no issues. The crank will wear in on the new bushing but the new bushing will not be scored. Post some pics.
If the shaft is out of runout spec that would have been like that before this right? There is no way it got that far out of spec if it is just by idling it after the cam swap
If the shaft is out of runout spec that would have been like that before this right? There is no way it got that far out of spec if it is just by idling it after the cam swap
Correct. However, one would also assume that since you had oil pressure before, the broken gerotor occurred after the cam swap which indicates that something went wrong during the install and/or at the initial startup.
Yes, I have no doubt that something went wrong i just dont want to be responsible for a worn crank when in reality that really isnt my at fault. Can you explain to me how a crank that is runout will still work until you try to change cams?
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