Just went to the HD dealer to get a base dyno on the build. Still need to do some jetting. AFR line is steady but fat and I will probably go a jet lower in each circuit and maybe move the needle clip up to the 2nd from the top.

Should pick up some more torque. HP seems low to me but I had retarded my spark advance a bit because I thought it was pinging. Also stock head pipe is probably not helping me but I will not be going 2 to 1. Just doesn't fit my bike style.

Might visit Dr. Dyno when I go to Laconia this year to see if he can get me any more out of it.

Has good pick up and runs smooth. Did all the tuning by the Mikuni manual.

Current jetting: 25 pilot, 97 needle with clip in middle, 165 main and 70AP nozzle.

Build in sig. I usually never go past 4,000 rpm when riding so HP up high is not that important to me.

Dyno sheet and blown up AFR graph attached as pdf.

Any advice?

 

I understand that the tune is a "break in" tune and the AFR is a bit fat but a 98" build, even with a small cam like the 26 should break the 100TQ mark, early, and perhaps see close to 110TQ with a final tune. Dealers don't have great track record when it some to tuning and tuning a Mik is even more a challenge for most that have only dealt with EFI motors. Get the bike in front of a real tuner to get what the build is capable of; you are not there yet.

 

The dealer didn't tune anything! I wouldn't let them because I agree they don't know **** about carbs or tuning unless you have an ECM.

That is why I stated in my post that I will get Dr. Dyno to give it a look. I really don't trust any of the tuners by me after asking them questions and wish I had a warm and fuzzy feeling about them but I don't.

I agree I should be making more TQ and HP!

 

Perfect AFR is 14.7. You have 12-13. It is about `15% off.
I think new jets should be about 7% smaller. They probably didn't check accelerator pump.

 

14.7 is VERY lean......hell, that's what the MOCO sets it at for EPA requirements.....and the AFR should change due to load......WOT should be fairly rich .......cruise a bit leaner.....AFR graph should not be so flat.......find a good dyno guy, he'll know what to do........NOT a stealer

 

You can probably buy AFR gauge with wide band sensor for $100(?)
Weld bung nut, install sensor and do everything yourself.

 

You should contact Chad down at Wide Open Cycle. It would be about 3 hours for you to get down there (Fredericksburg VA) but it would be worth the drive IMHO.

 

This is very incorrect. AFR for max power in his build is most likely 12.5 - 12.8.

14.7 is an emission afr and is very lean for light load cruise not heavy load accel.

Carbs are maximized by using the more air - less air test and can actually be a little difficult to tune entirely by afr.

 

He can simply stop by here, at the point of origin, to tune that well known combo.
We are VERY good with carb tuning, and have been tuning for well over 20 years now, and yes, there is more lurking in that combo.
North of 100 ft/lbs should be in easy reach.
Scott

 

I'm confused, you had the engine work done at Hillside? Why not get it tuned there?