Dynoed the build!
HDF Community Team
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 12,774
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From: san antonio
The Bellville springs can get weak and the old school fix for that is to find an old compensator, cannibalize a spring and add it to the weak spring pack. But if you think you have to replace the compensator, best bet is to replace it with another OEM unit.
Last edited by djl; Apr 12, 2017 at 05:02 PM.
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Tourer
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 403
Likes: 28
From: Carlisle, PA
Early compensator; they hardly ever go bad. Doubt that too much power is the issue. My '02 FLHT is powered by an all bore 107" motor that makes 124TQ/110HP and the compensator has not shown any issue for 10K miles. The early compensators did have an issue with the comp nut being a tad too long to develop sufficient clamping pressure when the nut was torqued to spec and the nut would come loose. The fix was to remove the nut and shave .030" off the end of the nut. Check the attachment for clarification.
The Bellville springs can get weak and the old school fix for that is to find an old compensator, cannibalize a spring and add it to the weak spring pack. But if you think you have to replace the compensator, best bet is to replace it with another OEM unit.
The Bellville springs can get weak and the old school fix for that is to find an old compensator, cannibalize a spring and add it to the weak spring pack. But if you think you have to replace the compensator, best bet is to replace it with another OEM unit.
Somewhere I heard that the new procedure was to torque to 75ft lbs and the add 45-50*. Does not sound good to me.
HDF Community Team
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 12,774
Likes: 2,606
From: san antonio
Now that you mention it, I thought I read somewhere that the 05 year had trouble with the nut coming loose and the fix was to add a washer and re-torque. Does this sound right? Also Do you know if they changed the torque procedure. Somewhere I heard that the new procedure was to torque to 75ft lbs and the add 45-50*. Does not sound good to me.
If it is loose, remove the nut and shave .030" off the end or go insert a .030" shim (both are shown in the diagram previously posted but you don't need both; one or the other). The MoCo sold shims for this purpose in several different thicknesses, up to 090" IIRC. Check with the parts guys at the dealer but unless they are older guys, they won't know what you are talking about. Find a machine shop and shorten the nut .030", clean the threads and use a couple off drops of red Loctite and torque per the procedure.
If the comp is tight, start looking elsewhere.
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Tourer
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 403
Likes: 28
From: Carlisle, PA
So I took the primary cover off today and the compensator nut was loose. Not excessively but it was easy enough to loosen it.
I guess I caught it in time.
Well here is the issue with my compensator: There is no spring between the two pieces with the interlocking teeth. Is this correct? Also in the service manual it shows the exploded view and there is no spring in the picture.
I know the 03s needed the shim or some shaved of the nut to get better clamping force but does that apply to 05s? I would think that by 05 they would have made the nut shorter to allow it to clamp properly.
I have the new torqueing procedure TSB M-1170.
Thanks again for all your help.
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HDF Community Team
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 12,774
Likes: 2,606
From: san antonio
Good to know. So I took the primary cover off today and the compensator nut was loose. Not excessively but it was easy enough to loosen it. I guess I caught it in time. Well here is the issue with my compensator: There is no spring between the two pieces with the interlocking teeth. Is this correct? Also in the service manual it shows the exploded view and there is no spring in the picture.
I know the 03s needed the shim or some shaved of the nut to get better clamping force but does that apply to 05s? I would think that by 05 they would have made the nut shorter to allow it to clamp properly. I have the new torqueing procedure TSB M-1170. Thanks again for all your help.
I know the 03s needed the shim or some shaved of the nut to get better clamping force but does that apply to 05s? I would think that by 05 they would have made the nut shorter to allow it to clamp properly. I have the new torqueing procedure TSB M-1170. Thanks again for all your help.
As you can see in the attachment, no spring between the sliding cam and the cover. You might get away with cleaning the threads, apply a couple of drops of red Loctite and torque per procedure but I would shave .030"-.050" off the nut to insure that it can't come loose in the future.There were three different thickness shims, .030", .060" and .090". The PN for the .060" is 24032-70 and for the .090" is 24033-70 and I have lost the PN for the .030" shim. I think it is a moot point as those PNs are now obsolete and it would be akin to winning the lottery if you found a dealer that had one of either thickness in stock but might be worth a try. You would be much better off shaving down the nut.
Last edited by djl; Apr 13, 2017 at 12:59 PM.
Road Master
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 864
Likes: 28
From: Mt. Pleasant SC
my 2 cents which in todays exchange rate is worth about a penny. He has a nice smooth bottom- mid range, i think looks real good. I don't know how big his wife/ girlfriend is so I can't say if he needs more torque or not. I'd rather run rich than lean. Lean gets hot and i'd rather change spark plugs than pistons. And it's a new build in break-in all the more reason to run rich
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