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Engine Mechanical TopicsDiscussion for motor builds, cams, head work, stripped bolts and other engine related issues. The good and the bad. If it goes round and around or up and down, post it here.
I've always used solid pushrods, if I need to tear down I do not care if I don't have adjustables. Smith bros will make high quality solid rods for cheap. I now run adjustables because I switched to hydosolid lifters. But, this is on an xl and they don't have collapsible covers from the factory. And I didn't want to spend the cash on adjustables, and a collapsible kit.
I don't use adjustables but they can make checking older spring style tensioners a little quicker or in the case of replacing lifters that seem to be a short lived wear item. I'm not on the clock so I don't really care, my older bike is stock and solids are lighter than adjustables. If I were to ever use adjustables I'd do my research carefully; choosing the wrong brand could cause a failure that creates a lot of work $.
Last edited by Campy Roadie; Apr 7, 2017 at 07:41 AM.
Well..... solids or "perfect fit" pushrods as they`re called is a little deceiving, nothing is perfect fit, yes at first the solid PR`s are tight but what about break in? A good set of adjustables is the way to go IMO. remember there's wear items at work here which upon loosening up will cause some chatter.
Smith brothers / Fuel moto PR`s are top shelf & lets face it no one here is running a top fuel drag bike - so those who say they`re heavier, power robbing, etc... are probably correct to a point so if you`re sinking tens of thousands into your motor & want every ounce of HP - then I'm sure you have top of the line everything in the motor along with all the proper math for fitment - expansion / contraction ratios, etc. - then go solid PR`s ( regardless some metric will still blow your doors off & at 1/3 the price of just your motor build).
For those wanting TQ & a small to mid bump there is nothing wrong with adjustables, why break into the top end if you don't need too - the dealerships usually recommend this - guess why? more $$$$$ the OP will do what ever & then a year or so later with 3-4000 after build miles on the bike (probably take em 2ys or better to get those miles) he`ll sell the bike & start over.
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