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Darkhorse/S&S/WFO Larry 117" build time.

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  #21  
Old 04-18-2017, 04:16 PM
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Should be a Blast!!

Are you going to have Larry Polish / Port Match the SE 58mm ??
 
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  #22  
Old 04-18-2017, 05:31 PM
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Oh,this should be good! 👍🏼
 
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  #23  
Old 04-18-2017, 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by blueangel73
Are you planning to go with chain or gear driving cams? If that .001" is correct, you should be perfect for gear driving, I would think.
I'm running the stock chain setup. I think the modern hydraulic setup is plenty reliable so I wasn't concerned about that. However, at a bike show a few weeks ago S&S had camplates set up with a old style spring tensioner chain, a new style hydraulic tensioner chain, and a gear drive setup. The gear drive required noticeably less force to spin, with the spring style the most difficult to turn. Not sure it would equate to a measurable power difference at the rear wheel, but it was something.
 
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  #24  
Old 04-19-2017, 04:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Reindeer
I'm running the stock chain setup. I think the modern hydraulic setup is plenty reliable so I wasn't concerned about that. However, at a bike show a few weeks ago S&S had camplates set up with a old style spring tensioner chain, a new style hydraulic tensioner chain, and a gear drive setup. The gear drive required noticeably less force to spin, with the spring style the most difficult to turn. Not sure it would equate to a measurable power difference at the rear wheel, but it was something.
I bet it would make turning the engine over a little easier but in operation i don't think you'd feel the several hundred spent to get there. I'm with you on chain drive being fine
 
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Old 04-19-2017, 04:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Reindeer
I'm running the stock chain setup. I think the modern hydraulic setup is plenty reliable so I wasn't concerned about that. However, at a bike show a few weeks ago S&S had camplates set up with a old style spring tensioner chain, a new style hydraulic tensioner chain, and a gear drive setup. The gear drive required noticeably less force to spin, with the spring style the most difficult to turn. Not sure it would equate to a measurable power difference at the rear wheel, but it was something.
That's interesting. I've been to engineering industry talks about changes in car engine design, to reduce parasitic losses, increase performance, reduce noise and emissions, also improve fuel consumption. It's disappointing to discover that the MoCo has missed that, although I suspect the chains are less noisy than gears.
 
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  #26  
Old 04-19-2017, 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by grbrown
It's disappointing to discover that the MoCo has missed that, although I suspect the chains are less noisy than gears.
I bet that's it. A little extra gear noise would equate to a little less exhaust noise to meet regulations.
 
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  #27  
Old 04-19-2017, 09:59 AM
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Excited for ya, should be a lot of fun!

117" was a good choice, if I had checked my crank runout before buying parts - that's what I would have done...

Any clutch upgrades for the extra power?
 
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  #28  
Old 04-19-2017, 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by HD Pilot
Any clutch upgrades for the extra power?
I was wondering where you were...

I've got an AIM VPC, a Barnett spring (not the heavy duty one...can't remember the part #) and Barnett clutch disks already. Hopefully that's enough, but we'll see.
 
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  #29  
Old 04-19-2017, 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Reindeer
I was wondering where you were...

I've got an AIM VPC, a Barnett spring (not the heavy duty one...can't remember the part #) and Barnett clutch disks already. Hopefully that's NOT enough, but we'll see.


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  #30  
Old 04-19-2017, 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by HD Pilot
Excited for ya, should be a lot of fun!

117" was a good choice, if I had checked my crank runout before buying parts - that's what I would have done...

Any clutch upgrades for the extra power?
how do you check the run out at home.

I was thinking i could have the dealer do it but, at that point. The chest is open and the labor is 1/2 done. Why not just in stall the cams/gear if with spec..and chain cams if not... that would require having both types of the chosen grind on hand at thhe time of testing to avoid basically paying for the cam install twice. By having it tested then getting a set of either then going back in for an install.

does that make sense or am i under thinking this?
 
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