Bike:
2012 FLHTK 103 stock except with exhaust change.
FullSac DX head pipe
CVO cans with FullSac screens, half the packing
FullSac 1.75 muffler cores
2 up riding 90% of the time
Will map with SEPT (because I lost my TTS, long story )

I bought a set of Johnson Hi-Lift pin oiler lifters to use in a cam upgrade project. Right now I plan on using the stock push rods because I'm going to install the Rockout rocker shaft inserts.The cams I am deciding are TW57h, SE204 and SE254e. At this writing I am leaning towards the TW57h cams. With the .560 lift and steeper rams should I use adjustable push rods or will stock push rods with the Hi-Lifts hold the correct lash to stay in contact with cam lobes? I'm not going to do any head work in the future so won't be going back in unless I frick things up......(ah, DIY can be humbling sometimes). Also any cam advice would be appreciated too. Thanks in advance for any advise.

 

The 57 line a little more comp@ 10:1 if your gonna reuse the OEM pushrods are you gonna take the heads off? If so go to a .030 head gasket and that should be enough for the 57. Not optimal but very good... I suggest the S&S lifters and pushrods (adjustable) it will save you a lot of headache's.............

And if your not going that route the 48 is a great Cam for 2 up and touring. Plug and play...... Good luck.....

 

Some info you didn't give. Where do you want the power increase? Off idle or do you want it to hit later and carry out further? Do you rarely if ever see 4K rpm+? Since you are 2 up most of the time I assume you want low end grunt. Consider the Andrews 48 cams instead of the 57's. I've used them both and if you are not increasing mechanical compression the 48's will serve you better. Other good choices in the same bolt in category are T-man 555 Torquester and Cyclerama 570's.

Also, you can use your stock pushrods as long as the base circle of the new cams are the same as the stock cams. You were checking that as you selected cams right? Lastly, find a good independent tuner and get the bike dyno tuned. You won't be sorry you did. You asked for opinions and that's mine.

 

Yep, I thought the 57's liked a little more compression and no I am not going to pull the heads. So I will continue my search for a cam that fits my riding style. Thanks again.

 

I would like the power to come on around 2200 rpm and carry out later. Right now after the DYNO tune it comes on at 1700 then starts to die off at 4500 rpm. I will see 4K+, when passing a vehicle and usually cruse around 75 ish when I can. Most of all I would like to keep my mpg and reduce the heat I now have with the stock cams. I don't do the in town back and forth, mostly trips, long roads to most everything around here. I have looked at the CR570's and they look like a good choice too. Were I ride the summers can get pretty hot with low humidity and the elevation is 2650 above sea level. As soon as I can afford it I will get it tuned, I agree just re-flashing the ECM with a close or SEPT or street tuned map is not the best, the closes independent tuner is 415 miles. I do check to make sure the base circle is the same and if it wasn't I would definitely use the adjustable ones. I did ask for opinions and I appreciate yours, thanks again for taking the time to answer.

 

I would take a closer look at those CR570s. They have a nice, broad, flat torque curve that starts low and carries well into the upper mid range (4500-4700 or so. The only reason I decided against them is, I went with the CR575s and headwork instead.

Give Wes at Cyclerama a call. He'll be happy to discuss with you.

 

I sure like all the DYNO charts tuners are posting with this cam..............Thanks for the info.

 

Just an afterthought, if you are willing to have a little headwork done and bump up the comp a bit you can make the 57's perform. This is mine at 10.2 to 1. See the torque cross 100 ft. lbs. at 1900 rpm.

 

Advance the 57s 4 degrees.. That will make the timing close to SE204s but on steroids.. Later when you wear out the top end out or get bored you can go 107 and squeeze it a little more then pull the +4 sprocket.

 

That's true and something to think about.