Awesome. I'm low on time this week but will be doing this if I get a chance. if not I'll get to it the following week and let you know the results. I want to check the plugs again too. I mix seafoam with the gas every winter as part of my winterization. It definitely runs different when I'm running it in the gas tank.

 

I sea foamed the motor yesterday by spraying around 2 fluid oz into the carb without the intake. Gave it a little gas so it wouldn't die. Once the throttle gets So far the exhaust Exhaust was coming out where the exhaust connects to the head on the front cylinder. I'm really hopping this is is why I'm hearing a knock. I tightend the bolt a little while the motor was hot and it muffled the knocking sound.

On to the next problem. When I tried to tighten nut it tightened the stud instead. The top nut on the exhaust is stuck on the stud. I sprayed Wd 40 on it to help releases and it didn't work. I really don't want to break the stud.

Any tricks to getting a seized nut off the stud? Or should I attempt to pull the stud out instead of the nut off then just replace the studs too?

 

I pulled the plugs again Before I seafoamed and they look the same as the previous photos. I poured a little sea foam into the tank and will run a cycle before I change plugs.

 

You can try some penetrant, but I'd pull the stud and replace.. If the stud comes out like it's pulling threads, use a penetrant on it and work it back and forth slowly.. Use Locktight on the stud to head and Antisieze on the new stud and nut. If you have an exhaust leak, replace the exhaust gaskets.

Also get into the habit of using a little antisieze on the plug threads.

 

This may sound really dumb but my first guesswas an exhaust leak. Even bought new gaskets. Heald a flame to the pipe next to head and it kept sucking inward slightly. Had a friend look at it and he didn't think it was an exhaust leak. I was going to replace the gasket anyway and had troubles with the nut so I stopped. Rather not break a stud in he middle of ridding season. Totally forgot that it could have been that exhaust.

If it's just the leak does it just sound like like a knock cause the hole is there or is lack of back pressure actually making something knock/ tick. As in two parts striking eachother.

 

Will antiseize release the current nut or is it just a Preventative?

 

Preventative: for both the exhaust flange nuts and spark plug threads.

 

You need a penetrating oil like liquid wrench or Krol. WD40 can work in a pinch.

 

Wanted to give some closure and say thanks for all the words of wisdom. Sprayed nuts wd40 the night before I worked on it. Replaced the front gasket with a se gasket and one stud but it was still leaking. I used two gaskets instead of one and it worked. I think I can still feel a slight exhaust leak but no sound anymore. Went on a three hour ride and all is good.

 

oil in the chamber can cause knock as it lowers octane of the fuel. running a rich mix can wash off oil on the cyl walls adding to wear in short order.
KISS it!!!
pull that cover and see what is going on, yep run it without the cover and look for mechanical issue. the next thing is to look closely at the umbrella valves. if these are not pliable, the engine can not breathe correctly. now just because you can squeeze them do not make them good, the engine can not squeeze them, uses diff'l pressure. my 01 sport started weeping and the new valves fixed it. i do not get oil in the breather because i route it to the carb throat. water is a by-product of combustion and if the valves do not seal, the water can not be expelled and even worse if the engine sucks air back in adding to the issue. the rings need diff'l pressure to work correctly and if not, oil can be forced to the chamber another issue with crappy valves.