Hydraulic Tensioner Upgrade Still The Way To Go?
#11
#12
I paid about $1,400, including the bottom gasket, and new inner cam bearings, about 3 years ago. At a Harley Dealer. If you have a good Indy it will be less.
#13
JonnyBlaze, I did a changeover to gear driven cams, combined with performance cam-upgrade on my 2005 FLSTN softail deluxe. I ordered an S&S 510G kit from amazon with S&S adjustable pushrods. 38K miles. I kept the oil pump.
You could consider going that route, as DJL has mentioned. Kill 2 birds- say goodbye to tensioners forever and get a kick in the pants performance upgrade.
Try measuring the runout first to see if a gear setup will go smoothly. Get the bike up on a lift, jack the rear wheel, pop out the sparkplugs, put in 5th gear, on the rightside remove the cam chest cover, the cam plate and oil pump.
Now, attach a Harbor Freight $35 dial gauge with gooseneck clamp to the crank shaft end. Setup your smartphone camera on a mic stand or something similar to record the dial gauge deflection. Spin the rear wheel slowly. Review the video. Mine was max 0.002". I guess I got lucky.
You could consider going that route, as DJL has mentioned. Kill 2 birds- say goodbye to tensioners forever and get a kick in the pants performance upgrade.
Try measuring the runout first to see if a gear setup will go smoothly. Get the bike up on a lift, jack the rear wheel, pop out the sparkplugs, put in 5th gear, on the rightside remove the cam chest cover, the cam plate and oil pump.
Now, attach a Harbor Freight $35 dial gauge with gooseneck clamp to the crank shaft end. Setup your smartphone camera on a mic stand or something similar to record the dial gauge deflection. Spin the rear wheel slowly. Review the video. Mine was max 0.002". I guess I got lucky.
#15
#16
Man up JonnyBlaze; it is not as difficult as you think and is a straight forward modification. All you need are basic hand tools, the OEM service manual and the intestinal fortitude to take on the task. Plenty of help on this site from those that have done it, some first timers and some that have done it many times. You can do it; you will save a bunch of money, know the job was done right, bond with the bike and feel like a pro when you finish.
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Gordo-uk (11-09-2023)
#17
Man up JonnyBlaze; it is not as difficult as you think and is a straight forward modification. All you need are basic hand tools, the OEM service manual and the intestinal fortitude to take on the task. Plenty of help on this site from those that have done it, some first timers and some that have done it many times. You can do it; you will save a bunch of money, know the job was done right, bond with the bike and feel like a pro when you finish.
You know how to handle basic wrenching? This is no more complicated than that, plus being sure to use torque wrenches to button stuff back up.
You can do it!
John
#18
I did a new '07 style cam plate, new oil pump, new cams, re-used pushrods and lifters; for a total parts price of about $650.
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Campy Roadie (11-03-2017)
#19
If I wanted to convert a spring tensioner set up to hydraulic I would buy the following from the 2007+ HD parts fiche.
Cam plate
Tensioners
Pinion shaft sprocket
Rear cam sprocket
Outside roller chain
Inside roller chain
Cam spacer kit for rear cam
Oil pump
Roller conversion cams from Andrews
New style stamped breathers
No need for adjustable pushrods, re-use stock.
Sundry gaskets an O rings, maybe lifters depending on how many miles are on them and what they are. This set up is cheaper and better than the SE conversion kit. That kit retains the link chain on the back side of the cam plate and causes more wear than a roller chain. The SE kit was marketed to people with the idea of using stock link chain cams.
All of that said, I run spring tensioners in my bike with Cyco shoes. I swap them every 15-20K miles. No need to spend all that money. There are a lot of knowledgeable people here (not me), one of which is DJL. He coached me thru my very first set; since then I've probably done upwards of 30. If I can do it, ANYBODY can.
One last thing I do on early TC88s. I replace the two cam plate bolts that are doweled with studs and nuts; I use ARP. Those holes only have a few threads in them because of the dowels. Using a stud lets you put it in a little deeper and eliminates the chance to strip the case.
Standard Disclaimer
I've been out in the driveway working on the old lady's car. It's only three in the afternoon and I've already started drinking I may have glossed over a part or two but you get the gist. If my spelling is off, SMD, I got kicked out of school as fast as I could. Don't be an internet dou*he and act like you can't figure it out
Cam plate
Tensioners
Pinion shaft sprocket
Rear cam sprocket
Outside roller chain
Inside roller chain
Cam spacer kit for rear cam
Oil pump
Roller conversion cams from Andrews
New style stamped breathers
No need for adjustable pushrods, re-use stock.
Sundry gaskets an O rings, maybe lifters depending on how many miles are on them and what they are. This set up is cheaper and better than the SE conversion kit. That kit retains the link chain on the back side of the cam plate and causes more wear than a roller chain. The SE kit was marketed to people with the idea of using stock link chain cams.
All of that said, I run spring tensioners in my bike with Cyco shoes. I swap them every 15-20K miles. No need to spend all that money. There are a lot of knowledgeable people here (not me), one of which is DJL. He coached me thru my very first set; since then I've probably done upwards of 30. If I can do it, ANYBODY can.
One last thing I do on early TC88s. I replace the two cam plate bolts that are doweled with studs and nuts; I use ARP. Those holes only have a few threads in them because of the dowels. Using a stud lets you put it in a little deeper and eliminates the chance to strip the case.
Standard Disclaimer
I've been out in the driveway working on the old lady's car. It's only three in the afternoon and I've already started drinking I may have glossed over a part or two but you get the gist. If my spelling is off, SMD, I got kicked out of school as fast as I could. Don't be an internet dou*he and act like you can't figure it out
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pmcclure1 (11-19-2020)
#20
Visit the thread - twin Cam 88 build question. djl is a good help on these type builds - however I noticed on page 1 of this thread it sounded like some one had increased crank run out with mileage & gear drive cams............believe I said something about that in the thread above.
yes the dealer charges 2k depending on what you`re having them do? even with their hybrid kit, cam bearings, gaskets, O-rings & labor - not counting cams, lifters or pushrods, etc. you would be at a grand.
you want a solid build? are you keeping the bike?............if you answer yes - then call Bobby Wood or visit his site - He knows his stuff as do many here. Good luck
Nomadmax - you are one of the knowledgeable people here!
yes the dealer charges 2k depending on what you`re having them do? even with their hybrid kit, cam bearings, gaskets, O-rings & labor - not counting cams, lifters or pushrods, etc. you would be at a grand.
you want a solid build? are you keeping the bike?............if you answer yes - then call Bobby Wood or visit his site - He knows his stuff as do many here. Good luck
Nomadmax - you are one of the knowledgeable people here!
The following users liked this post:
Campy Roadie (11-03-2017)