I just picked up a real nice 2003 Electra Glide EFI with 21k miles. Ive read up on the cam tensioner problems on these TC88 engines but havent seen anything recent.

So I was wondering if the hydraulic tensioner upgrade is still the right way to go or are there now better options?

The bike runs great and motor doesnt make any strange noises. Has Rinehart True Dual exhaust and K&N filter. Otherwise stock.

Thanks.

 

 

Who has the best prices on the SE Tensioner kit? Is that better than the gear drive?

When I get it done, should I get upgraded cams at the same time?

 

If you are going to upgrade cams, that would be the time to do it. No extra labor. I was happy with my performance, so I kept the stock cams.

There are many threads on here about gear versus hydraulic upgrade. And about different cams. I wouldn't change cams without riding your bike a few thousand miles first. I went with what the dealer recommended. I don't know much about gear drives.

 

I really dont need cams but figured since I was going to be in there might as well instead of doing it twice?

 

If it was me, I would install an Andrews 21 or 26 Gear Drive. Keep it 88 CI, don't do the big bore. That's all you need.

 

JMHO but since you just purchased the bike with only 21K miles now would be a good time to replace/upgrade the tensioners, install a set of bolt in cams and replace/upgrade the inner cam bearings. There are several options you might consider:

1. Check crank run out and if less than .003", install a set of S&S 509 gear drive cams, retain the OEM cam plate and pump if both are in good condition and replace the inner cam bearings with a set of Torrington/Nachi B148s. American Classic Motors offers the 509 cams, complete gear drive setup, inner and outer cam bearings and cam cover gasket for $595 with free shipping. Add the Baisley pressure relief valve spring for about $12.

2. Replace the OEM tensioners with the CYCO tensioners, retain the OEM cam plate, replace inner and outer cam bearings, install the Baisley spring and the 509 cams. Cost would be about $330 for all (except CYCO tensioners) from Revzilla. CYCO tensioners selling on EBay for half the cost of the OEM replacements.

3. Replace the OEM cam plate with the SE Hybrid kit (PN 25284-11)which retains the OEM inner chain but includes billet cam plate and hi-capacity oil pump. Cam plate, oil pump, new outer roller chain and hydraulic tensioner, inner hydraulic tensioner on the OEM link chain runs about $430 from an online discount dealer, plus shipping. The cam set is going to run about $300.

Note I have not mentioned lifters or pushrods. If you pull the push rods from the top, you can reuse them; if you go the adjustable route, throw in another $150 for a set of SE Quick Install Tapered adjustable push rods (PN 18404-08). With only 21K miles on a set of the OEM "B" lifters, you can reuse them as well. However, if you choose to replace them, throw in another $125.

So, as you can see, it's a matter of how much you want to spend since all of the above will produce the same performance results. JHMO, which isn't worth much, but #2, plus the addition of a fuel management system and a dyno tune would be my choice.

 

Frankly this should be a sticky with as many threads there are on the subject! Great rundown ......... thanks! Everyone I have considered and haven't decided. Any idea on the chances of the runout being .003 or less on a bike with 24K?

 

There are lots of options/price points for this, as well stated by DJL.

Here's what i did on my '06.

Replaced cam support plate with '07 and up version, new '07 higher flow oil pump, and Andrews 21N cams. This method gets rid of both silent chains. I replaced inner cam bearings, and re-used the B lifters (13k on them) and kept stock pushrods. Also added rockouts and catch can.

Bike runs really well with 21 cams in it, runs cooler and smoother, mileage is about the same.

 

If an early model, say prior to '04 chances are pretty good that run out will be less than .003" and later models still pretty good chance, just not at as good as with the early hot forged cranks. Having said that, it's not so much that the run out will not be greater than .003" as much as it is how long the crank will remain that way. One of my bikes is an '05 FXSTD and I built a mild 95" motor when the bike had less than 5K miles on it; crank run out was .0025" so I installed gear drive cams. 25K miles later, I decided I wanted a stronger 98" motor, a little more displacement, more cam, more heads and more throttle body. So, I was anticipating a basic top end rebuild but when I pulled the cam chest and checked crank run out, it had grown to .0045" with some light scoring in the cam plate and pump. My build cost just doubled.