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Engine Mechanical TopicsDiscussion for motor builds, cams, head work, stripped bolts and other engine related issues. The good and the bad. If it goes round and around or up and down, post it here.
My roommate has an 07' night train. the other day it up and died on him. we got it home he ran the diagnostics and it came up saying it had a bad throttle position sensor. swapped it out for a new one, fired her up and now it's only firing on one cylinder. we changed the plugs, wires and the coil but still only the one cylinder firing. any ideas out there?
Diagnostic codes (if that's what you mean by diagnostics) do not indicate a bad sensor. Diagnostics tell you the circuit that has the problem.
You probably have a loose connection, damaged plug, switched or loose plug wires, or bent a pin pushing a connector back together - assuming the sensor was a problem and that is now repaired.
Last edited by Ed Ramberger; Feb 17, 2018 at 10:02 AM.
as i said...it's not my bike. personally I like to ride older bikes without all the computer **** so pardon me if I didn't get the lingo for your codes just right. obviously you still got the point. but thanks either way. I'll give it a look over. It did come up with a code to change the throttle position and still reads the same code after replacing with new one
as i said...it's not my bike. personally I like to ride older bikes without all the computer **** so pardon me if I didn't get the lingo for your codes just right. obviously you still got the point. but thanks either way. I'll give it a look over. It did come up with a code to change the throttle position and still reads the same code after replacing with new one
To make it easy to understand, codes do not mean replace parts - they indicate problems with a circuit that a part is contained it. For example an open/high code could be a broken wire at the connector or a poor connection. Can you tell us what code you get? That will help us help you out.
If a new symptom occurred after you worked on it (running on one cylinder) that is why I made the suggestions above.
Last edited by Ed Ramberger; Feb 17, 2018 at 09:00 PM.
Did the throttle screw back out or did you back it out? When running, you should be looking for an IAC reading of roughly 30-40 steps. If you don't know what that means, just check for the idle stop screw for looking like it backed out. If unsure, you can turn it in (keep track of what you did so if necessary you can undo it). It should be holding the theottle blade open.
That code can be because the voltage coming back through the TP circuit is lower than it should be (possibly backed out screw)
"Typical" TP voltage with the throttle closed is in the .2 - .8 v range. Also re-check connections for bad/open connection, broken pin or wire at connector. A short to ground or an open on the GY/V wire wire will throw that code.
Open/Low means the circuit voltage is lower than expected and is typically an open wire or sensor below expected range. Shorted/high is typically a shorted wire or sensor above expected range.
Last edited by Ed Ramberger; Feb 19, 2018 at 07:06 AM.
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