Twin cam 88 cam plate/ oil pump upgrade
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Novice
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 18
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From: Michigan
Twin cam 88 cam plate/ oil pump upgrade
Hey guys. Well its finally time, my cam chain tensioners are worn on my 2003 flhtpi 88. I have decided to go with s&s 510 gear drive cams. I plan on using new s&s lifters because I hate the idea of my old lifters riding on my new cams. Im also using Quickee pushrods to save some work. My question is...
Is it really necessary to upgrade my cam plate and oil pump?? I plan on atleast upgrading the oil bypass valve. Any input is appreciated! Ride on
Is it really necessary to upgrade my cam plate and oil pump?? I plan on atleast upgrading the oil bypass valve. Any input is appreciated! Ride on
Cruiser
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 204
Likes: 61
From: Arkansas
I'd inspect your oil pump and look for scoring/damage. If so feuling makes a nice bolt in replacement pump. A LMR-002 oil pressure spring would also help. The stock cam plate is more than adequate, I would also run that as long as its not scored or damaged.
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Novice
Joined: Jul 2017
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From: Michigan
I was hoping it would be fine because Im not going to hydraulic tensioners. I would think a better oil pump and cam plate would maybe be necessary to supply aftermarket hydraulic tensioners. Thats how I look at it maybe Im wrong. Thanks for the input
HDF Community Team
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 12,773
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From: san antonio
Hey guys. Well it’s finally time, my cam chain tensioners are worn on my 2003 flhtpi 88. I have decided to go with s&s 510 gear drive cams. I plan on using new s&s lifters because I hate the idea of my old lifters riding on my new cams. I’m also using Quickee pushrods to save some work. My question is...
Is it really necessary to upgrade my cam plate and oil pump?? I plan on atleast upgrading the oil bypass valve. Any input is appreciated! Ride on
Is it really necessary to upgrade my cam plate and oil pump?? I plan on atleast upgrading the oil bypass valve. Any input is appreciated! Ride on
I would also suggest the S&S 509 cams in lieu of the 510 which will be a turd in a TC88 motor compared to the 509. The Andrews 21 would also be a good replacement.
If you need/want an upgraded pump, Drag Specialties offers a Daytona pump for about $150. If "upgrading the oil bypass valve" means installing the Axtell piece, not necessary. As others have pointed out the Baisley spring is good enough. Remember that the HD oiling system is operates on volume, not high pressure.
Do you have the OME service manual? Good luck with the project.
Last edited by djl; Feb 24, 2018 at 11:06 AM.
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From: Michigan
I chose the 510 over 509 because Cycle Solutions told me the 510 would be more fun than the 509 and their map for the 510s in the power commander V would be close to 30 HP increase. And I do have a Clymer manual which guided me through primary/drive belt replacement without issues
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HDF Community Team
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 12,773
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From: san antonio
I chose the 510 over 509 because Cycle Solutions told me the 510 would be more “fun” than the 509 and their map for the 510s in the power commander V would be close to 30 HP increase. And I do have a Clymer manual which guided me through primary/drive belt replacement without issues
You might want to start a thread "S&S 509 vs 510 in a Stage I TC88" and get some replies from some forum members that have actually run the cams before pulling the trigger. The 510 is going to drop CCP a bit below CCP with the OEM cams while the 509 will boost CCP about .5 points, still low but better than with the OEM or 510 cams. CCP = torque and torque is what moves you down the road. From what I have seen on dyno sheets, the 509 will deliver a tad more torque and about 8-10 more horsepower than the 510. The 510 was designed for motors with at least 9.7 static; your setup will have about 8.5 and the only way to over come that is to select a cam with an earlier intake close to boost CCP. Do the math before you listen to Cycle Solutions.No replacement for the OEM service manual and if you plan to keep the bike, pull regular maintenance and deal with the other mechanical issues that will come up, get the OEM service manual; the Clymer can't touch it.
Also find a competent dyno tuner and don't waste $$ on a map; it will get close but no substitute for a proper dyno tune.
Of course, it's your ride and you decide; just giving you a heads up.
Last edited by djl; Feb 24, 2018 at 05:14 PM.
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Novice
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From: Michigan
OK, good luck with that; I suppose it all depends on how "fun" is defined but you will never see 30HP increase with either the 509 or the 510; gotta call bullshit on that one. You might want to start a thread "S&S 509 vs 510 in a Stage I TC88" and get some replies from some forum members that have actually run the cams before pulling the trigger. The 510 is going to drop CCP a bit below CCP with the OEM cams while the 509 will boost CCP about .5 points, still low but better than with the OEM or 510 cams. CCP = torque and torque is what moves you down the road.
No replacement for the OEM service manual and if you plan to keep the bike, pull regular maintenance and deal with the other mechanical issues that will come up, get the OEM service manual; the Clymer can't touch it.
Also find a competent dyno tuner and don't waste $$ on a map; it will get close but no substitute for a proper dyno tune.
Of course, it's your ride and you decide; just giving you a heads up.
You might want to start a thread "S&S 509 vs 510 in a Stage I TC88" and get some replies from some forum members that have actually run the cams before pulling the trigger. The 510 is going to drop CCP a bit below CCP with the OEM cams while the 509 will boost CCP about .5 points, still low but better than with the OEM or 510 cams. CCP = torque and torque is what moves you down the road.No replacement for the OEM service manual and if you plan to keep the bike, pull regular maintenance and deal with the other mechanical issues that will come up, get the OEM service manual; the Clymer can't touch it.
Also find a competent dyno tuner and don't waste $$ on a map; it will get close but no substitute for a proper dyno tune.
Of course, it's your ride and you decide; just giving you a heads up.