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Cam for a TC88 Dyna

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Old Mar 28, 2018 | 05:51 AM
  #11  
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THE plug/play cams for an 88", are an S&S .509, or an Andrews 21.
We actually lean towards the 21, but that said, nothing wrong with the .509.
Scott
 
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Old Mar 28, 2018 | 06:22 AM
  #12  
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The main purpose of this effort is mostly to keep the stock engine from grenading while I am out in nowheresville Ireland. Any performance improvements are simply a bonus.
The heads are coming off because the labour isn't too much for it. It's a guy the MCC goes to for most work.
BB's aren't much of an option as I live in Ireland. Shipping and core charges will eat too much in to it. At the end of the day you have 7 more cubes. I'd rather save the 3-4K+ and add it to the heap and buy an M8 Street Bob once they start to cycle in to the used market. OK, to be honest, that is my master plan. A grenading tc88 is certainly not going to get me closer to that plan.
The thing came with short shots. I'm not married to how they sound, either. They do look great, tho. With the 'quiet baffles' they sounded better and ran better. I tried the super quiets, but they didn't run any better and they sounded strange on decell. Dunno how folks can run these with the basically straight thru stock 'baffle' unless they love their bike farting up the place and absolutely no bottom end.

So as it stands, it looks like a 509 with a little bump in compression is the way to go. I have seen charts where they are showing nearly 80hp at 6K in an 05, which has got to be much more top end than she has now, but much more bottom end.

Thanks for your time, folks.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2018 | 09:16 AM
  #13  
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Stick with your plan to upgrade the cam chest with new inner/outer bearings, O-rings, CYCO tensioners, .030" head gasket and 509 cams. '05 model year did have an issue with poor valve guide seals and high oil consumption. The MoCo upgraded the seals and many were replaced under warranty. While you many not have experienced that problem and the heads are coming off, replace the valve guide seals. Clean up the heads and have a triple angle valve job done as well. I wouldn't worry about the Short Shots; they are not that bad. My brother ran the Side Shots (basically the same pipe) on a 95" motor with SE air filter, SE 204 cams and stock heads the made 91TQ/85HP. We replace the heads with a set of BigBoyz street ported heads and replace the exhaust with a Python 3 2:1 pipe and that configuration made 103TQ/96HP. If you attribute 10TQ/10HP of the gain to the heads, that shows that the Side Shots were not that bad compared to the Python. I don't think you will be giving up much by keeping the Short Shots.

If your budget can accommodate the cost of milling the heads, have the chambers measured and machine them to 80cc; probably about a .035"-.040" cut depending non actual chamber volume; the added compression will help the 509 cams as well as give you the option of going with the Andrews 48 which will have bit less on the bottom but should be stronger in the mid and upper ranges where it seems from your posts that you prefer the power; your call.

Since you are removing the heads, you must be careful in doing so; you don't want to disturb the seal at the o-ring between the cylinder and the case. Sometimes the heads will be "stuck" with the OEM head gasket. If that should be the case, have someone hold the cylinders during head removal. Once the heads are off, get a couple of 1/2" PVC couplings to secure the cylinders until the heads are ready to reinstall; see the attached photo.

You really should include a fuel management system unfortunately whatever system you choose for the '05 Dyna will not work with the M8 Dyna so something like the V&H original Fuelpak LED or the Dobeck TFI, both of which are DIY systems with great tech support. The OEM advance curve will be too aggressive for the new cams. Google both systems and select the one you want.

I have attached test results comparing the cams being discussed all done on the same day on the same dyno. The bike was a Stage I '05 model bike but make unknown. Draw your own conclusions.

Good luck with your project.
 
Attached Thumbnails Cam for a TC88 Dyna-tc-88-cam-test.jpg   Cam for a TC88 Dyna-pvccylinderspacer.jpg  
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Old Mar 28, 2018 | 09:33 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by Zanthamos
OK, Dr. Google came up with only Amazon and they were out of stock for the Torrington B148s, any sources that anyone knows of out there?
Check your local bearing house; they will have them. Cross reference Torrington B148 if for an early model and Koyo will probably come up; Japanese and good quality.

Or buy from your local dealer for $20 or an online discount dealer for 20% discount, plus shipping; probably the same cost. PN24017-10 for '99-'06 except for Dyna and PN24018-10 for '06 Dyna and '07 up others.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2018 | 09:57 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by djl
Stick with your plan to upgrade the cam chest with new inner/outer bearings, O-rings, CYCO tensioners, .030" head gasket and 509 cams. '05 model year did have an issue with poor valve guide seals and high oil consumption. The MoCo upgraded the seals and many were replaced under warranty. While you many not have experienced that problem and the heads are coming off, replace the valve guide seals. Clean up the heads and have a triple angle valve job done as well. I wouldn't worry about the Short Shots; they are not that bad. My brother ran the Side Shots (basically the same pipe) on a 95" motor with SE air filter, SE 204 cams and stock heads the made 91TQ/85HP. We replace the heads with a set of BigBoyz street ported heads and replace the exhaust with a Python 3 2:1 pipe and that configuration made 103TQ/96HP. If you attribute 10TQ/10HP of the gain to the heads, that shows that the Side Shots were not that bad compared to the Python. I don't think you will be giving up much by keeping the Short Shots.

If your budget can accommodate the cost of milling the heads, have the chambers measured and machine them to 80cc; probably about a .035"-.040" cut depending non actual chamber volume; the added compression will help the 509 cams as well as give you the option of going with the Andrews 48 which will have bit less on the bottom but should be stronger in the mid and upper ranges where it seems from your posts that you prefer the power; your call.

Since you are removing the heads, you must be careful in doing so; you don't want to disturb the seal at the o-ring between the cylinder and the case. Sometimes the heads will be "stuck" with the OEM head gasket. If that should be the case, have someone hold the cylinders during head removal. Once the heads are off, get a couple of 1/2" PVC couplings to secure the cylinders until the heads are ready to reinstall; see the attached photo.

You really should include a fuel management system unfortunately whatever system you choose for the '05 Dyna will not work with the M8 Dyna so something like the V&H original Fuelpak LED or the Dobeck TFI, both of which are DIY systems with great tech support. The OEM advance curve will be too aggressive for the new cams. Google both systems and select the one you want.

I have attached test results comparing the cams being discussed all done on the same day on the same dyno. The bike was a Stage I '05 model bike but make unknown. Draw your own conclusions.

Good luck with your project.
I had an old fuel pak from V&H, but didn't like how it ran. I replaced it with the latest DynoJet Power Commander with a map from Fuel Moto, and it was a new bike. More power everywhere - and way way more on the top. It revs straight up to whatever it's new redline is and will nearly put me on the tank when it hits.

However, there's one thing it still does(and has always done since I got it back when it had the fuelpak), it will eventually die at idle if not warmed up, and occasionally once warmed up it will die if I give it throttle from a stand still. It makes a loud "pop" and back fires thru the intake(sometimes I can actually see **** fly out of it - a K&N filter) and then dies. I cleaned out the idle valve area and the intake. Anyone know what's goin on?
 

Last edited by 00wyk; Mar 28, 2018 at 09:58 AM.
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Old Mar 28, 2018 | 10:37 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by 00wyk
I had an old fuel pak from V&H, but didn't like how it ran. I replaced it with the latest DynoJet Power Commander with a map from Fuel Moto, and it was a new bike. More power everywhere - and way way more on the top. It revs straight up to whatever it's new redline is and will nearly put me on the tank when it hits.

However, there's one thing it still does(and has always done since I got it back when it had the fuelpak), it will eventually die at idle if not warmed up, and occasionally once warmed up it will die if I give it throttle from a stand still. It makes a loud "pop" and back fires thru the intake(sometimes I can actually see **** fly out of it - a K&N filter) and then dies. I cleaned out the idle valve area and the intake. Anyone know what's goin on?
The map is wrong. Is there a dyno tuner in your area, get the bike on a dyno and those issues will be addressed; you need a new map anyway with the cams.

If no dyno tuner in your area, you can access all available downloads from the Dynojet website for both Power Vision PCIII and PC V. Find a map that is closest to your configuration; download and keep trying different maps until you get one that works. You can also call Dynojet tech support for assistance. A bit of work but absent a dyno tune, trial and error is the best you can do.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2018 | 12:39 PM
  #17  
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It's a fuel moto map I got from them specifically for my application when I purchased the PC-V from them. When the engine is running, it's fine. It's just the idle or off idle. I might replace my idle valve, I dunno. I'll certainly get a new map with the cams, of course. I cant call dynojet as they do not sell their PC in Ireland. My support is via FuelMoto. The nearest dyno set up for tuning HD's is in the UK. No one in the UK has the reputation FuelMoto had, so I went with FM instead of a UK sourced PC-V.

No man is a rock, but Ireland is. It's basically like living in the past. Nothing is local. I am lucky I found a decent mechanic the next county over. And HD's are like unicorns.
But, dear Lord, it is a stunningly beautiful country. And riding a Dyna through is heaven.

 
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Old Mar 28, 2018 | 01:00 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by 00wyk
It's a fuel moto map I got from them specifically for my application when I purchased the PC-V from them. When the engine is running, it's fine. It's just the idle or off idle. I might replace my idle valve, I dunno. I'll certainly get a new map with the cams, of course. I cant call dynojet as they do not sell their PC in Ireland. My support is via FuelMoto. The nearest dyno set up for tuning HD's is in the UK. No one in the UK has the reputation FuelMoto had, so I went with FM instead of a UK sourced PC-V.

No man is a rock, but Ireland is. It's basically like living in the past. Nothing is local. I am lucky I found a decent mechanic the next county over. And HD's are like unicorns.
But, dear Lord, it is a stunningly beautiful country. And riding a Dyna through is heaven.

Dynojet will support their product no matter where it is, so you can call or email the Dynojet tech support desk; they will help. There are other reasons why you would get that backfire through the intak and have idle issues but I will be a six pack, or a few pints, that the tune is the problem. There is no such thing as a map for a specific application; sounds good but is bullshit as not two motors are the same nor are the environments. Do yourself a favor and try reaching out to Dynojet as well as Fuel Moto when searching for a new map.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2018 | 05:06 PM
  #19  
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I took DJL's and others advice and went with the 509 gear drive cams. Stuck with 88" even though many suggested going bigger. Nice lope at idle, and a noticeable bump in low end pulling power.

FuelMoto didn't hit the tune on mine right away either. They're great to work with, but with so many small variations in individual set-ups, it's near impossible to nail it in one shot. After contacting them, they sent two other maps over. "try number 1 first" they said. It ran great but sucked fuel. Map #2 worked great and I've been running that one ever since.

Even though they got mine pretty close on the third map, I know there's room for improvement with a dyno session. I'm not after every last ounce of power I can squeeze from it though. It does what I need it to do, gets decent fuel mileage and hasn't given me any trouble outside of a light intermittent miss at low speed/light throttle, like at 25mph in a school zone.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2018 | 05:29 PM
  #20  
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The map I have runs very well. No dead spots, and very linear acceleration. It makes my FuelPak look anemic by comparison. I'll ask DynoJet about maps. I already have two more coming from FM. Dyno time simply isnt happening. The closest one is in another country.

And speaking of another country, here's some pics I took last time I was in Clovis, CA:

http://www.pbase.com/wyk/clovis
 
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