Extreme Vibration
The work they did was:
Clamp, hose $1.33
Clamp, hose, .500 ID $0.91
Oil Seal $3.05
Chain Tensioner Guide Assembly $15.93
Gasket Kit, Exhaust $8.95
Gasket Kit, Engine Complete $109.84
Retaining Ring $1.08
Kit-Cam Bearing Asy, TC88 $19.95
Kit-Cam Plate, Hybrid, w/HI $499.95
Gasket Kit, Inner Primary $67.90
Gastet, Primary Cover $31.50
Roller Bearing $30.74
Ball Bearing $13.41
High-Performance Sealant $13.95
Labor $1380.00
They also did a service.
I don't think you have any recourse at this point. Shoulda taken it right back or never even left the shop with it. No way you should pay that kinda money when they didn't fix the problem you brought it in for.
Wish there was a good shop in the area that I could trust...
At this point I have 3 options. 1. find a good mechanic that won't rape me like the dealer did; 2. tear it apart myself and try to find the issue... but I'm not all that experienced in tearing down an engine; or 3. sell it.
Not thrilled that i wasted $2500 and I want to ride it again. If anyone knows a reputable shop in the Baltimore MD/York PA area that doesn't want me to pay them to learn their job, I'm all ears.
Thanks
If its all as you describe, I believe the cases need to be split.
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
A lot of work to DIY the project but with the service manual and a good set of basic hand tools, not that difficult; just time consuming. You will need the service manual an a few "special" tools. The first step is the purchase of the service manual and read what is required to remove the motor from the frame. No drama on the brake side, just clear out the cam chest. The outer and inner primary have to come off and you will need a way to hold the trans drive pulley to remove the inner primary hardware, the trans pully deep socket and donut and the tool to R/R the inner primary bearing race. Pull the heads and cylinders, support the trans, remove four bolts holding the trans to the motor case, remove the front motor mount and yank out the lower unit. Split the cases and you will see the counter balancer assembly as shown in the attached photo. The small center sprocket is very likely the offender and by referring to the service manual you should be able to see that it has shifted and is out of phase per Ed's last post; #10 in the parts diagram. That sprocket is an interference fit on the crank and has been known to shift which throws the assembly out of balance. The fix is fix the sprocket on the shaft in the proper orientation and have it spot welded to the crank.
Like I said, a lot of work but easily done for the cost of the tools, oil and gaskets; a great opportunity to learn. There are a few tips/tricks one should be aware of like, keeping the pistons in the cylinders when disassembled; marking lifters and pushrods to they go back in their respective bores, inspecting the oil pump for wear and making sure all parts are reinstalled in the proper order, etc. but if you decide to DIY the project, there is lots of help here.













