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Extreme Vibration

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Old Oct 31, 2018 | 09:12 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Jared L
For the revving, I just rolled the throttle, taking it up to about 2500-3000 rpm after it warmed up a bit.

The work they did was:
Clamp, hose $1.33
Clamp, hose, .500 ID $0.91
Oil Seal $3.05
Chain Tensioner Guide Assembly $15.93
Gasket Kit, Exhaust $8.95
Gasket Kit, Engine Complete $109.84
Retaining Ring $1.08
Kit-Cam Bearing Asy, TC88 $19.95
Kit-Cam Plate, Hybrid, w/HI $499.95
Gasket Kit, Inner Primary $67.90
Gastet, Primary Cover $31.50
Roller Bearing $30.74
Ball Bearing $13.41
High-Performance Sealant $13.95
Labor $1380.00

They also did a service.
Looking at the above list, it doesn't appear that the motor was removed and the cases split which would have been necessary to inspect the counter balancer assembly and would have shown the balance chain sprocket out of position and repaired. Now you get to do it all over again; make sure the next $2500 includes checking the crank runout.
 
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Old Oct 31, 2018 | 12:37 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by joe40x
Why did they replace the cam plate? Excessive clearance on the output shaft? Wallowed out bearing?
Sadly, I don't remember off hand exactly what the upgrade was, but I had them upgrade it.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2018 | 04:41 PM
  #13  
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Did all that work get done under the premise that it would cure your vibrations? If so, go back to whoever did it and bitch about it.

If not, you got porked.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2018 | 11:56 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by Jared L
I was getting my bike ready for the season.
That would have been last spring - right? And you are bringing it up now. Did you ride it all summer? Was it ok, then got bad again?

I don't think you have any recourse at this point. Shoulda taken it right back or never even left the shop with it. No way you should pay that kinda money when they didn't fix the problem you brought it in for.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2018 | 08:58 AM
  #15  
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The absolute 100% tell tale for a spun balancer drive sprocket is broken coil mounts and or broken fuel tank tabs. 2001 was a year known for spinning and cracking gears.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2018 | 06:16 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Mattbastard
Did all that work get done under the premise that it would cure your vibrations? If so, go back to whoever did it and bitch about it.

If not, you got porked.
I bitched about it when I picked it up since the issue was still there. They (Cheasapeake Harley Davidson) claimed the labor cost was for them doing exploratory surgery, which yielded no issues. I have NEVER had a good experience with the service department at any harley dealer. Seems like they want me to pay for them learning what the hell they are supposed to already know how to do. The point that they couldn't even identify there was an issue says it all...

Wish there was a good shop in the area that I could trust...
 
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Old Nov 4, 2018 | 06:21 PM
  #17  
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I didn't get to ride it at all, because I didn't feel comfortable riding it due to the excessive vibration. I don't think i have any recourse now, but I tried my damnedist to get them to own it to no avail.

At this point I have 3 options. 1. find a good mechanic that won't rape me like the dealer did; 2. tear it apart myself and try to find the issue... but I'm not all that experienced in tearing down an engine; or 3. sell it.

Not thrilled that i wasted $2500 and I want to ride it again. If anyone knows a reputable shop in the Baltimore MD/York PA area that doesn't want me to pay them to learn their job, I'm all ears.

Thanks
 
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Old Nov 4, 2018 | 08:11 PM
  #18  
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If the engine doesnt miss and it’s only excessive vibration, My money is on the balancer gear being out of phase.

If it’s all as you describe, I believe the cases need to be split.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2018 | 10:59 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Jared L
I didn't get to ride it at all, because I didn't feel comfortable riding it due to the excessive vibration. I don't think i have any recourse now, but I tried my damnedist to get them to own it to no avail. At this point I have 3 options. 1. find a good mechanic that won't rape me like the dealer did; 2. tear it apart myself and try to find the issue... but I'm not all that experienced in tearing down an engine; or 3. sell it. Not thrilled that i wasted $2500 and I want to ride it again. If anyone knows a reputable shop in the Baltimore MD/York PA area that doesn't want me to pay them to learn their job, I'm all ears.Thanks
The only shop I know of in the NY area is Hilside Cycles in Munnsville. If that is too far, you could call Scott and if there is a dependable shop closer, I am sure he will direct you there.

A lot of work to DIY the project but with the service manual and a good set of basic hand tools, not that difficult; just time consuming. You will need the service manual an a few "special" tools. The first step is the purchase of the service manual and read what is required to remove the motor from the frame. No drama on the brake side, just clear out the cam chest. The outer and inner primary have to come off and you will need a way to hold the trans drive pulley to remove the inner primary hardware, the trans pully deep socket and donut and the tool to R/R the inner primary bearing race. Pull the heads and cylinders, support the trans, remove four bolts holding the trans to the motor case, remove the front motor mount and yank out the lower unit. Split the cases and you will see the counter balancer assembly as shown in the attached photo. The small center sprocket is very likely the offender and by referring to the service manual you should be able to see that it has shifted and is out of phase per Ed's last post; #10 in the parts diagram. That sprocket is an interference fit on the crank and has been known to shift which throws the assembly out of balance. The fix is fix the sprocket on the shaft in the proper orientation and have it spot welded to the crank.

Like I said, a lot of work but easily done for the cost of the tools, oil and gaskets; a great opportunity to learn. There are a few tips/tricks one should be aware of like, keeping the pistons in the cylinders when disassembled; marking lifters and pushrods to they go back in their respective bores, inspecting the oil pump for wear and making sure all parts are reinstalled in the proper order, etc. but if you decide to DIY the project, there is lots of help here.



 
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