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Vibbbrrration

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  #1  
Old 06-18-2019, 03:48 PM
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I'm good with a certain level of vibration, I don't want and electric scooter for Christ's sake but my bike has more vibration in it than Stormy Daniels night stand.

It's totally embarrassing at idle and at speed it will buzz your hands numb in just a few miles. At least once they are numb you don't notice it as much.

I plan to start by replacing the front motor mount, it's an '05 RK TC 88. I ran a search on mounts and all the threads were pretty old so I'm wondering what the current recommendation is for replacement mounts.

Some are cheap and under $20 and some are more spendy at over $100. I'm not looking for chrome, or looks cool I just want good quality and good results taming the vibration.

I read thru some good older posts suggesting to shim the mount to allow the bushing to give the most dampening affect which seems pretty straight forward.

One of the mounts I like the design of is from Glide Pro and it looks like it may address some of the issues including the gap with a larger dia' bolt to better fit the hole and the sleeve with some anti-seize allowing the bushing to do it's thing.

That said it is one the more expensive mounts and I'm good with the cost if the results are there. On the other hand I don't want to over pay for something that isn't really any better than any other $20 mount on the market.

If you have any personal experience with the Glide Pro, or any other mount good, or bad I would appreciate your input.
 
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Old 06-19-2019, 08:15 AM
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Wow, the only time my '07 RKC shook was at idle. I have no idea about engine mounts, stock or upgrade but you're probably on the right path. One further thing to look at, my old Softail had rubber isolators (maybe not the right name) that were part of mounting for the handlebar risers. It may be worth getting a look in a service manual to see if something similar even exists on the RK's. If so, replacing them would be less cash and less work than a motor mount I expect. I could have looked it up for you but I let my manual go with the bike.
I'm not doubting you need a motor mount, just thought it's one more thing to check. It would really suck if you changed mounts and still had the problem. Best of Luck getting it sorted out!
 
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Old 06-19-2019, 08:33 AM
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Thanks for the reply I do plan on replacing any rubber mounts for the bars as well. Looking at the rear isolators too. It's an older bike I picked up a couple months ago so I am little by little working on replacing everything that's been neglected by previous owners.
 
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Old 06-19-2019, 09:14 AM
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What RPM are you experiencing these vibes at? Might be something more wrong than just isolators.
 
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Old 06-19-2019, 01:47 PM
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Has the vibration presented as long as you have owned the bike or is it a new development?

I have run several different front motor mounts, including the later OEM unit, the Buell unit, the early Glide Pro and the later upgraded Glide Pro. The current Glide Pro is the best I have found so far. Of course there is some motor movement, not much though, at idle but it all goes away just off idle. The crank in my all bore 107", 02 FLHT has been balanced as well. If the vibration is as bad as the OP describes, checking crank run out may be a good idea.
 
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Old 06-19-2019, 02:21 PM
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MattB, at idle it is pretty wild and at speed it just becomes a buzz, hands and feet. It's almost like one of those foot massagers at the fair that vibrate. It doesn't seem appear or disappear at any particular RPM just as RPM increases the vibrations are closer together so it appears smoother.

djl, I've only had the bike a couple months but it has done it from the beginning. I bought it with 85K on the clock so I knew it has had plenty of wear and I'm working thru it. I believe the motor is strong mechanically as I had it dyno tuned by a reputable tuner and he indicated that the motor and transmission seemed to be tight and in good condition. I have to assume the mounts are original and with the mileage they are well past due. Thanks for your input on the Glide Pro. From what I've seen so far I like the idea of the 1/2" bolt and sleeve which the rest do not seem to have. I just didn't want to be a victim of good marketing and pay 5 times too much for no better result. I'll do the rear isolators as well because they can't be any newer than the front. Eventually, I want to replace every bushing, bearing and wear item so it'll be back like new again.
 
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Old 06-20-2019, 05:52 AM
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Front isolators are good and shot by that mileage. I wouldn't waste my money on Glide Pro for your issue. I'd just buy a new front isolator and install it, then do my best to align the engine/trans/swingarm with the frame and go from there.

The reason I wouldn't do the rear is because they hardly move at all! The engine really more pivots around the swingarm at the rear isolators. Next time your bike is shaking around at idle, take a look at the back of the trans and tell me how much it's shaking.
 

Last edited by Mattbastard; 06-20-2019 at 05:55 AM.
  #8  
Old 06-20-2019, 07:20 AM
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MattB,

I looked it over last night and checked for anything loose and I agree with your comment on the rear, there was very little movement. The front on the other hand looked like a pogo stick. Also, I think your right about saving money on the Glide Pro, the OEM front isolator worked just fine when it was new. I am having a hard time paying 5 times that for something that can't be 5 times better. I don't mind paying more for a better quality, or better design I just can't see it here.
 
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Old 06-20-2019, 07:30 AM
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Have you checked your primary chain to make sure it's adjusted right? If it isn't that can cause issues. I did the Glide Pro front mount and it didn't do much to improve vibration. I'm sure others have had better success than I had. When I checked and adjusted my primary chain that took care of a bunch of it. Good luck!
 
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Old 06-20-2019, 07:33 AM
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While the isolators are probably shot with your mileage and that kind of " buzz " at speed I'd be suspecting hard mechanical issues like loose or worn primary chain & compensator, the upper alignment link would be a place to start and if it nothing is found you may want to do a run out test on the crank.
 


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