Just trying to compare oil pressure readings with other Rushmore Twin Cams (Stock and Modded)
I am still running Stock Pump and stock plate

Start up cold is around 31-32 PSI
Running at speed after warm around 27-28 PSI

idle after warm up is around 13-14 PSI

Sound about normal?

 

Spec with the engine warm is 30 to 38 psi at 2000 rpm. The stock gauges are not that accurate so it's hard to say if you have an issue.

 

I think my bike is fine
or at least it has been so far

just wondering how it compares

and with those with Blue pumps and Red pumps and Orange pumps?

 

Have a fueling pump w/baisley spring I'm at 3/4 gage +- a couple hot or cold at speed. When I had SE think it was some over half gage W/ stock spring.i like lots of oil. My Chevy rebuild will be getting a high volume oil pump.

 

Mine is 52 cold 42 at speed and 17 at idle hot. With modded engine

 

I had my 88" built to a 103" and had issues with sumping using the OEM pump with the heavier relief spring running around 40 to 45 psi along with adding a oil cooler. Decided to try the S&S TC3 pump and cam plate and currently the issue has disappeared. The S&S shows 32 psi cold and slightly less at cruising speeds, hot idle is 15 psi and oil temperatures have stayed under 225 in the last 1100 miles with no cooler and lower 80's for ambient temperatures.

 

The issue is that adding the heavier spring on the stock oil system caused the motor to sump. If you'd left the oil pressure relief valve alone your motor would have run cooler. The SNS is a good pump. It has a higher scavenge to feed ratio. Dump more oil into the motor through a heavier spring and you'll have more oil to remove.

 

I learned a lot over the last few months. Everything that could have happened during this upgrade happened! I ran 40k with the Baisley spring with no cooler or issues. I was getting spiked oil temperatures inconsistently after the build and figured having the higher pressure along with the cooler it was causing cavitation on the scavenger side. So far the only issue of running at a lower pressure is between my ears.

 

I not sure how adding an oil cooler on a bigger motor would cause the motor to sump. Seems to me that the cooler would slow flow unless it was installed on the scavenge side of the pump. On TC's, the cooler typically goes on the feed side.

TC pumps don't cavitate. It's a misused term here. The oil pump fails to scavenge for different reasons and the flywheels aerate the oil. Aerated oil (foamy) is harder to scavenge as it's volume is larger. Once sumping occurs oil temps will spike due to flywheels dragging in the oil. That drag (loss of HP) heats the oil directly which is why the temps spike.

In your case, since the motor seemed to sump after the build, I'd be more inclined to think that the reason for sumping was increased windage due to increased displacement or possibly greater cylinder leakage but there are many other factors that can cause sumping. SnS pump will definitely help tho.

 

Sounds perfect to me. You will get plenty of oil to top. The relief is set 35 on most. You say TC but I thought it was and EVO. If it's a TC, then idle is below pressure release like it should be at idle.

Harleys just need 35 or less since that gives plenty of volume thru the engine. Cars need enough since they have to push it a lot further thru all those shell bearings and still make it to the last one. As the wear, oil pressure drop. Harleys do not have that problem.