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Twin Cam Warm idle Knock

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Old Sep 19, 2019 | 04:46 PM
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Default Twin Cam Warm idle Knock

I ride a 2001 Road King Classic FI with 36,000. Last fall I had the cam tensioner upgrade done (SE hydro) and new adjustable pushrods and lifters. I rode the bike home and noticed a loud tick or knock at idle once the bike was warm. Took it back to my indy and he told me it was old parts and new parts working together. So I rode the bike... for another 2000 miles. Took it back to him this summer because the sound was still there. No worse, just still there. He acknowledged that this was not normal and pulled the pushrods to find one of them (rear exhaust) severely worn. Two others had moderate wear and one (the front intake) looked good. He attributed it to cheap pushrods and swore he would never use that brand again. He replaced them with S&S quickee pushrods. The sound was still there, so I changed the lifters to S&s, thinking that I might have a bad lifter. No change. Now I am thinking that I may have an oil pressure/flow issue, but I am really grasping at straws.
The sound is definitely coming from the lifter area on the rear cylinder. The bike is quiet on a cold start, but about 5-10 miles in it starts to make the loud thumping noise at idle. I don't hear the noise when riding, but when I pull the clutch or come to a stop and let the engine idle the sound shows up every time. Adjusting the pushrods an extra half-turn did seem to delay the arrival of the sound by a few miles, but once the engine is warm the sound does not go away.
My Mechanic says that is the way my bike will sound now so I should just ride it. I am convinced that there is something wrong. I have thought about the Baisley spring and plunger, but I don't want to keep throwing parts at the bike.

Your help is much appreciated!


 
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Old Sep 20, 2019 | 06:48 AM
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When you removed the pushrods to install the S&S lifters, did oil pour out of the pushrod? Also, with the pushrods removed and lifters installed (so you can see the top of the lifter) crank the engine over. Do you see oil pumping thru the lifter? That'll tell you if oil is getting to the lifter.

Also, it might be worth heading to HF to pick up a mechanics stethoscope. Those are great for troubleshooting these random noises.
 
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Old Sep 20, 2019 | 06:50 AM
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Also, when you had the hydraulic upgrade done on the tensioners, was it that typical SE kit that comes with a whole new plate and pump?
 
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Old Sep 20, 2019 | 08:07 AM
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On some of the early twin cam engines a port must be plugged on the new cam plate or oil pressure will be very low. I’ don’t remember when the cases were updated to include the extra boss— it may have been when the B motor was introduced which may have been 2002. I’m sure someone will chime in on the year model of the change— my memory is fuzzy that far back!
 
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Old Sep 20, 2019 | 08:33 AM
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I do not recall oil pouring out of the pushrods. I used a stethoscope to pinpoint the sound to the rear lifter area. Seems like it is losing oil pressure once the system is hot.

When the upgrade was done, he used the kit that included the new plate and pump.
 
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Old Sep 20, 2019 | 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by jbarr1
On some of the early twin cam engines a port must be plugged on the new cam plate or oil pressure will be very low. I’ don’t remember when the cases were updated to include the extra boss— it may have been when the B motor was introduced which may have been 2002. I’m sure someone will chime in on the year model of the change— my memory is fuzzy that far back!
TCb motors for the Softails have an extra takeoff port and screen for lubrication for the chain and balance cams. Not sure if that plate works here but port would need to be plugged
 
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Old Sep 20, 2019 | 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by jbarr1
On some of the early twin cam engines a port must be plugged on the new cam plate or oil pressure will be very low. I’ don’t remember when the cases were updated to include the extra boss— it may have been when the B motor was introduced which may have been 2002. I’m sure someone will chime in on the year model of the change— my memory is fuzzy that far back!
I'm not sure if this is the issue. My understanding is that if the missing boss was the issue, I would have noise on a cold start as well. When the bike is cold, it runs smooth and quiet. It is only after the oil gets up to operating temperature that it starts to make the noise.
 
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Old Sep 20, 2019 | 08:54 AM
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To Jbarr's post, the early '99 TC cam plates are the ones that require plugging a port.

I have never seen a push rod worn like the one on the left side of the OPs photo. Just a couple of thoughts/suggestions. First thing I would do is pull the rocker covers after running the motor for a few minutes ans see if oil is pulled in the corners of the lower rocker box. If flow is good, there should be pooled oil. Next, I would start the motor and watch/video oil flow at the rocker arms. It won's spray all over like a small block Chevy but will dribble through. The HD oiling system is based on flow/volume, not pressure. There should be an immediate and constant supply of oil between the push rod and rocker arm. If not, the oil supply to the top end is the issue and the solution is likely in the cam chest.

Apparently the noise did not present before upgrading the cam chest so it would seem that something in the upgrade is the source of the noise. Llike Mattbastard has inquired, which SE cam plate/pump was installed? The OP has not told us what oil pressure is, at idle and cruise which is pertinent. A video of the noise would help as well as knowing oil pressure.
 

Last edited by djl; Sep 20, 2019 at 09:30 AM.
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Old Sep 20, 2019 | 08:55 AM
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Last edited by jbarr1; Sep 20, 2019 at 08:57 AM.
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Old Sep 20, 2019 | 09:26 AM
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Guessing at the oil pressure and/or the condition of the oil pump I'd put as my #1 I think. I'd want a known good pressure guage and even a visual of the pump if I found it necessary.
Don't keep throwing $$ in without first finding out whats causing this. I did that once and it was a lost cause in my case. I needed a motor.
 
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